Hi--

Other threads have advised me on which plugs to buy and even why, but there are apparently a few benzes which _do_ require the custom benz-plug-removal tool (or, at least, it makes the job much easier), and I hope someone who's done the dirty deed can tell me whether/not they found that to be the case on there babies (mine's the hatchback, _not_ the 40k roadster)
? Of course, I'd sure apprecitate any tips.
I'd also apprecitate a dig. photo of the accessed area, and/or the step-by-step of what I remove to best access the plugs. Is this an operation that's best done from underneath?
I was pretty slick on my VW's, but I will not, repeat, will NOT be offended by newbie-descriptions like the "red cover over the engine."
I've got the plugs, anti-seize, plenty of standard wrenches and deep-sockets (including Met Wrench), a torque-wrench, and wheel-ramps if they're needed.
Thanks in advance.
Jeep (long story--no, I've never owned one)

 

It would be helpful if you would let us know on the left side what car you drive, year and model is not always enough, because the same sales designation can have different engines depending on your location. A picture of your car and engine would also assist anyone who has done this and would like to help.

It sounds like you have the right tools. I am not sure the ramps are needed, unless you are very tall, and want the engine at a more comfortable height. (just kidding)

 

RE:
"It would be helpful if you would let us know on the left side what car you drive, year and model is not always enough, because the same sales designation can have different engines depending on your location. A picture of your car and engine would also assist anyone who has done this and would like to help. "
Thanks for your reply. 'not sure what "on the left side" means.
If it helps to differentiate, it was fully assembled/painted in Germany due to custom options of my choice (color, whatever). Delivered down your way, I beilieve--Riverside. Sean Green had just been in to buy a _slightly_ more expensive model.
It's the 2.3 turbo, of course, but I imagine you know that.
If this info isn't sufficient, and you can specify a differentiator, pls. reply with same. (I see folks trying to set records for off topic chats, but, for whatever reason, you're my only reply for this, so maybe I don't understand how to post.)
--thnx

 

He is referring to info you can post under your forum name on the left side of the screen. Another way to accomplish the same would be to create and put it into your sig.

 

i could be way off but here's my guess:

it's c230 supercharged, just because he said 2.3 liter turbo. which 1.8 liter kompressor, i just don't know... goodluck

 

I'll make some assumtions that this is a C230 Kompressor, Model 203.740, with engine 271.948. This is an inline 4 cylinder 1.8l motor with a supercharger. A supercharger takes power from the engine to compress the intake air. A turbocharger uses exhaust heat to turn a compressor for the intake.

For this motor you need 4 ea Bosch f 6 MPP322 or NGK ILFR60 plugs. Now, if your car has been in the USA the whole time, you should not need these plugs for 100,000 miles. These are the only two plugs approved by Mercedes for this car in the USA. Other plugs may fit, but these are approved.

There are four ignition coils on top of each plug. Be careful, they can shock you. If you have an implanted pacemaker, you should have someone else do this work.

Pull the engine cover straight up, (Germans use two hands, so they don't break it, I guess.) and you can see the "coil packs" in a row on top of the head. Make sure the key is out of the ignition, and if you have keyless GO, move the cards out of range. Remove the primary connector from each coil. Unmount the air pump switchover valve and lay it to the side. Then remove the two screws holding each coil. Carefully remove the coil pack from the top of the spark plug that is under it. Pull straight up.

Now you need a 16mm sparkplug wrench. It is part number 112 589 01 09 00 and costs about $ 60.00 from an online tool shop. (put the number in google to find them.) I don't think you need the fancy swivel head socket to do the job, as any thin wall 16mm spark plug socket should work fine.

Use the tiniest amount of antisieze compound on the plug threads, and tighten in two stages to 28 NM. (The first stage is to 21 NM, let it rest a minute, then apply 28 NM torque to the plug.) I know a lot of mechanics don't do this, but they don't own your aluminium head either.

Now installing the coil pack takes some instruction. Look them over carefully, if there is any discoloration or cracks, it should be replaced. You must now position the spark plug connector in the starting position. You pull out the bottom of the connector so that there is 124mm from the bottom of the sparkplug connector to the bottom of the widest portion of the coil pack. Then put the pack on the plug. Tighten the screws to 8 NM. You don't want it to come loose, or damage the head. Plug the connectors back in, mount the air pump switchover valve back in its holder.

Put a touch of Vaseline on the mounting feet for the engine cover, it will make it so much easier to fit in place.

Now, never disconnect a coil pack with the car running, or short out the wires (it will goof the alarm system.) Don't try to hold the pack above the plug to "see if there is a spark." It is not 1972, and these cars are not your fathers Oldsmobile. The coil requires a 2K ohm load at all times, so never turn the car over when the coil packs are connected, and the plugs are out. For a compression test, you need to remove the packs from the car.

I hope this is helpful. Now if you have a V6 or V8, aren't you lucky, they have two plugs per cylinder. At $ 39.99 each, every 100,000 miles makes more sense.

 

To Moviela: Thanks for the time _and_ the detail. If you don't mind, there is just one part I'm not getting. I've seen pics of the entire operation on the AMG 32, but, so far, have found nothing on my baby. Here's the step about which I'm unclear:
"You pull out the bottom of the connector so that there is 124mm from the bottom of the sparkplug connector to the bottom of the widest portion of the coil pack. Then put the pack on the plug."
On the AMG 32, there appears to be only one coil pack/side, or perhaps I'm not correctly recognizing the coil pack.
1. Can I expect 1, or 1/plug?
2. Will this step definitely be necessary, or, if I take my time and handle everything carefully, is it likely to be in the correct position, so I will just confirm the 124mm position?
Thanks for the animated tips--fortunately, in this case, I'm most likely to just hand this over to a pro if the plug-change isn't the solution!
Again, Thanks!

 

The 271 engine has a coil for each plug, and there is one plug per cylinder. There are no EHT (extra high tension) cables like a lot of cars that connect the sparkplug to the coil. The sparkplug connector is part of the coil.

Each spark plug when installed and tightened to the specified torque, will be at a slightly higher or lower position due to manufacturing tolerences. To adjust for these differences the connector on the coil pack can move. When you install it, you first pull it out to the 124mm dimension, then as you push it on the plug and tighten the two screws the connector telescopes to provide a precision fit on the plug. Nothing complicated, but if you don't know to pull it out, it might not make good contact with the plug. This could cause poor performance and even damage the coil pack.

Here is a drawing of the coil pack. 'A' is the 124mm dimension.

 

Moviela--
Sweet instructs--thanks.
? Is 124mm the normal limit of the connector in the coil pack?

 

That is the starting point. That insures that it is long enough to meet the shortest plug, within normal manufacturing tolerences. I believe the connector slides at position 3 on the drawing.

 

are the plugs all on top for the 2001 c240?

 

1/2 way through installation, i can now answer yes they are on the top of the block, on the side of the thing the coil pack attaches to.

 

yes two per cylinder the last ones are a ***** to take out without the mercedes tools

 

I'm DONE!!!! 11 out of 12 aint bad for no training other than this forum, thanks for the info moviela

 

Ok, spark plug noob question. I'm doing a 60k tune up on my c230. Can someone briefly explain to me what the above means? What does it mean to tighten to 28nm? Is the only tool needed a 16mm spark plug wrench?

 

nm=newton metres. It's a measurement unit of how much force or how tight a bolt should be applied to a bolt. Undertightening or overtightening is bad, especially on the alu. block head since a loose spark plug doen't create a tight seal and overtightening it runs the risk of stripping the threads.

Everyone should own one since you can get a cheap one from Sears for twenty bucks and is especially useful when taking wheels on/off and making sure all 5 lugs are equally torqued down to spec. Many newbies make the mistake of overtorquing every nut and bolt. A 175lb person standing and jumping on the lug nut wrench often hits 200+ft lbs of torque which is more than double the spec. and also ruins the threads.




In addition, the two plugs located nearest the firewall are a PITA to access since there is little clearane between them and the shock mounts/frame rails. This is mainly due to the fact that the 6cyl block is set at 90degrees rather than 60degrees. Saves on manufacturing costs since MB 6cyl and 8cyl are on the same production line. A 6cyl 90degree block is just an 8cyl block with 2cyl chopped off.

 

a regular 3/8 inch torque wrench.To get ft lbs you multiply Nm times .737
i.e. 28Nm *.737=about 20ft lb.
Use no anti-seize ever on a plug thread.They are all plated with
a trivalent metal plating to prevent seizing and corrosion.Installing at the proper torque assures proper seal and easy removal the next time,Using anti-seize will not allow you to set the proper torque spec.Don't use it NGK ILFR6A #3588.
16mm thin walled plug socket at sears or any good auto parts store.
Use a ratchet that has the push button to release the socket,it help when you get in tight spaces and need to remove the wrench.

V-6 and V-8 are a piece of cake if you use the special 17mm offset boot removal tool .
your model is even easier
Remember no anti-seize
ohlord

Someone is confusing you with talk of plug changes in the m112 and m113 v6 and v8 engines,don't let it confuse you and if you ever get one it is easy to get at the plugs if you use the proper tools.Diy on benzworld.org w210 section if you ever get a v engine.Just do as above pop off the engine covers and dig in

 

^^

Thanks! I got the NGK ILFR6A #3588 plugs, delivered tomorrow. I won't use any anti seize.