M271, Putting in a Better Air Filter than the K&N

Well, from my research and now experience using a different filter in the M--Streamline Engineering, in particular--there are filters out there that are a lot better than the K&N, but like most things M271, the manufacturers haven't given us jack.
For the M3 applications, the Streamline filter is hands down much better than the K&N and for the K&N Cold Air Intake, most people change out their K&N cone filter and put on Streamline cone filters. The Streamline filter has better filtration rates and better flow than the K&N for the same applications. So I wanted to see if we could use them...
Do you think these http://www.heleneperformance.com/products2fr.htm
cones would fit our cars?
Last edited by nlpamg; Feb 6, 2007 at 07:31 PM.

***!dude, people have done real dynos on this! and have had conducted particulate matter tests! I have to look for the threads... but I know Buel's comments and hell if it's good enough for my M it's good enough for the C!

are all MAF's basically the same? the heated wire? or is ours different?
I'm thinking of either going BMC or Green for the amg airbox.
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I wonder how the other filters are working for people.
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Here are the specs if you wanted to try and fit another filter in the box.

Code : 329/16
D1 (mm) D2 (mm) H (mm)
77 107 249
BMC REPLACEMENT FILTER - CYLINDRICAL FILTER
BMC has developed a particular production system based on soft rubber moulding which produces the familiar BMC red filters. They are made in one single piece with no welded joints in the corners, thus avoiding breaking risks.
Here are the specs if you wanted to try and fit another filter in the box.

Code : 329/16
D1 (mm) D2 (mm) H (mm)
77 107 249
BMC REPLACEMENT FILTER - CYLINDRICAL FILTER
BMC has developed a particular production system based on soft rubber moulding which produces the familiar BMC red filters. They are made in one single piece with no welded joints in the corners, thus avoiding breaking risks.
Now the questions is: Is the stock filter better than K&N? I've seen both sides of the arguement but the reality is that the stock filter has a MUCH higher surface area. Basically if you disassemble the filter and unpleat the paper filter, you'll be able to pull the material much farther than you could if you did the same to a K&N. Yes, for the same square inch, the K&N will outflow the paper media. But given the much larger surface area available on the stock filter, the K&N and stock filter are supposed to have pretty equal flow. I keep the K&N because I like being able to clean and reuse a filter and I don't live in a very dusty area.
I don't know why some cars tolerate K&N filters better than others. I've noticed that German cars (Audi, MB) tend to display the effects of a contaminated MAF more than American cars. I suspect that the measurement is much more fine (precise) on German cars as opposed to American cars. When I bored out the MAF on my Audi A4, I needed to use O-rings to act as a mini velocity stack in front of the MAF wires to accelerate flow through the heated wires, otherwise I'd end-up with a check engine light. No such problems on the Mustangs I've had...
Bob
Now the questions is: Is the stock filter better than K&N? I've seen both sides of the arguement but the reality is that the stock filter has a MUCH higher surface area. Basically if you disassemble the filter and unpleat the paper filter, you'll be able to pull the material much farther than you could if you did the same to a K&N. Yes, for the same square inch, the K&N will outflow the paper media. But given the much larger surface area available on the stock filter, the K&N and stock filter are supposed to have pretty equal flow. I keep the K&N because I like being able to clean and reuse a filter and I don't live in a very dusty area.
I don't know why some cars tolerate K&N filters better than others. I've noticed that German cars (Audi, MB) tend to display the effects of a contaminated MAF more than American cars. I suspect that the measurement is much more fine (precise) on German cars as opposed to American cars. When I bored out the MAF on my Audi A4, I needed to use O-rings to act as a mini velocity stack in front of the MAF wires to accelerate flow through the heated wires, otherwise I'd end-up with a check engine light. No such problems on the Mustangs I've had...
Bob

Bob
We still have a few in stock so give us a call.
Last edited by jlee@carlabms; Feb 8, 2007 at 02:14 PM.

I would like to have the sporty sound of a CAI, but not at the expense of losing any ponies. The good news is that, there is a lot of room to fin a CAI in a M111 engine.
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