When to change rotors
There are multiple light grooves all around the rotor - I've attached 2 pictures. The grooves are a bit more visible in person than in the pictures, and when you run your finger over them, you can definitely feel the waves, but they are not deep at all.
Do I really need to replace these rotors? Also, this is a lease that is ending in 6 months - If I take the chance of just changing the pads, will I be forced to replace them when I go to turn in the car after inspection?
Thanks in advance.
Another thing is, $700 is over priced for just front. I hope that quote was for front and rear.
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For safety every brake rotor is marked with a minimum thickness specification. If the rotor is less than this number, you risk brake failure because heat could not be properly managed by the rotor. This can result in serious injury or death. The rotor must be replaced. If the rotor is even close to minimum thickness when measured, it should not be placed back in service.
Rotors are available from other vendors than Mercedes. Zimmerman, Brembo, and ATE come to mind. Pelicanparts.com is a source where you can check prices. I understand you don't want to pay more for rotors on a car soon to be returned. Remember though that it is your body riding around in the car for the next six months, don't risk becoming a carcas because of a few dollars.
$ 700 for front brakes seems a bit steep. I bought pads and rotors for my car recently for $ 180. It only took an hour, but I do have a decent jack and air tools.
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My front pads were completely shot ( I had like 1% left!!), I think I drove another 500 miles after the warning light first appeared. My rear still had a good 25% or so left, but I went ahead and change both front and back with EBC pads and rotors. This all happened when the car has around 55k miles on it.
He charged me $100 for about 2.5 hours of installation for rotors and pads and brake fluid. (I brought all the parts myself) Which was pretty reasonable.
I guess the best thing you can do is to get a 2nd opinion from a different mechanic like many others have already said.
I replaced my rotors when I replaced the brake pad the first time. Bought Zimmerman rotors online and got pads from local auto parts store. Total parts cost me around 250.00, did the work myself. It was the first time I've ever changed brakes, and it wasn't that hard at all. Took about 2 hours for me to do the fronts, and that's 1-1/2 hours on the left side first, then 30 minutes on the right side.
I would not recommend getting the brakes done at MB. At the same time I would also not recommed getting them done at someplace like Midas (LOL). Here's what to do: Go to MB and buy the rotors (the price is pretty decent), then go online and buy some Porterfield brake pads (absolutely no more brake dust). Then either do it yourself or bring it to a local garage and have them done.
People looking at a picture alone and saying a rotor is fine are making a judgment they cannot make. Rotor thickness is key, because that determines the heat carrying capacity of the rotors. The rotors thin over time (not as fast as the pads, but it does happen). Even if you were to get the rotors "turned" so the faces are machined flat, you may be below the minimum spec for thickness, which will result in quickly warped rotors.
(Note that the size of the lip on the outer edge of your rotors indicates to me that they may indeed be too thin. When they are new, there is no lip there, so that shows you how much material has been lost.)
While Techsuperstar wrote the pads are soft, I have heard that the MB rotors are also soft. Using OEM pads and rotors, you should expect to change rotors with every other pad change. I didn't' like this, so I bought an aftermarket pad/rotor kit. This kit (front/rear pads, front/rear slotted rotors, front/rear stainless braided brake lines) cost me $600 in parts from StopTech, and I've been happy with it.
If you cannot install the parts yourself, I'd expect to pay about 2-3 hours of labor for front/rear pads and rotors. But it's an easy job, so if you've done similar work I would recommend buying parts and doing it yourself.
I replaced my rotors when I replaced the brake pad the first time. Bought Zimmerman rotors online and got pads from local auto parts store. Total parts cost me around 250.00, did the work myself. It was the first time I've ever changed brakes, and it wasn't that hard at all. Took about 2 hours for me to do the fronts, and that's 1-1/2 hours on the left side first, then 30 minutes on the right side.

To answer some of the questions:
- This is the first time I am changing pads
- I have 25,000 miles on the car
- Yes, the local brake shop wanted $700 for just front pads & rotors
- This is my wife's car and she's not an aggressive driver
I guess the general consensus is to replace them. I don't think I want to take the chance with machining them and then having a different problem later - I rather just buy the parts and do it myself.
Anyone recommend a good place to buy online? I was going to go with buymbparts.com, but total for pads and rotors is around $300 - a few of you mentioned that you did it for less. Moviela?
Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.
Lucky me, the front brakes and rotors were brand new and stopped car after pumping brakes coupla times.To me your rotors look worn as I can see the lip. I spoke to two mechanics and both told me that if you can see a lip that deep on an MB rotor, it is time to change it.
But $700 is very very steep for only front brakes and rotors. I got it done at a local mechanic for $300 for Rotors, Brake Pads and Sensors. He charges $60and hour, so a bit cheap. An MB specialist who charges $90 an hour quoted $350 for the same job. So you see, OEM parts seem to be around 180 and labour varies. For drilled rotors it may be a bit more but definitely not double the cost.
Cross-drilled/Slotted rotors are made to prevent rust and allow for the brakes to breath better to increase performance. When you turn a rotor it thins out the metal, so in theory, if you turn cross-drilled or slotted rotors, it causes the integrity of the rotor to decrease, thus making it unsafe.
+ StopTech ss braided lines too !



Last edited by Moviela; Aug 9, 2007 at 05:41 PM.







