Very strange thing happen when I change the transmission fluid:
First I mistaken transmission pan as oild pan, so I drained the transmission fluid ( about 2.5 Quart). Then I overfilled my oil tank about double oil. Luckly I found the mistake ( I just drive a few yards in and outside garage), so I dump the engine oil and correct the normal quant. Then I bought 3L MB transmission oil (the right stuff from dealer cost 90) and filled to the filler ( behind the engine on left side of firewall -facing engine) about 2.5Q. When I test drove, I notice delay in changing gear, so it revv a lot. I thought might be not enogh, I put in all 3L, now still same problem, sometimes after a little drive better. I wnet to bought a MB dipstick, and it showed I way overfilled, so I drain 3times about 2.0 q, still showed overfilled with stick. This is impossible, and now the gear even can't get in, it just revv without engage. I refilled the drain ( I drained to original container) , now still same. It won't gear in like no fluid was filled.) I also noticed the drain is yellowish brown color, the MB auto transmission oil is red. Am I missing something here? Is that I filled in wrong filler? I checked web no picture showed the filler position, but on of old MB c240 97, at about same position with smaller engine block. Please help, any experiened appreciated.

 

i haven't changed transmission fluid on mine yet so i have no clue...
maybe go to mb shop and ask them?
how many miles do u have on ur car?

 

51000 miles. Maybe I need to change the whole thing including the filter, but it really baffle me is after I drained 2.5 quarter fluid the dipstick still showed way above ( about 1 in ) above the max line of hot fluid and my fluid is warm ( about 30 C). Something is fishy

 

I just had my tranny flushed on Monday. They used 6L of fluid according to the invoice. Mind you they only flushed the tranny. Not the torque converter.

 

Post a picture of where you drained different fluids and filled different fluids. Are you checking the transmission fluid properly with the engine running? There's different marks on the fluid level stick for cold and warm fluid.

 

Yes, I keep the engine running and shift back and forth before checking. Picture I have to do tonight, but I didn't open the engine plastic cover, just found the dip tub behind it, is that right? or it's under the big square shape plastic cover?

I also doubt the transmission is customer type. where can I locate the transmission type number on the car? I only found transmission number on my paper Id which is 20327010000xxxxxx which is nothing near the 722.x type in normal C and E calss cars

 

Here's a step by step filter/fluid change with pics. Hope it helps

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...ans_oring.html

 

Thanks, from what I guess, it might take a long warm up to let the new fluid function. I guess I drive too short of time.

 

Zebra100,
Sounds like you may be measuring your Transmission fluid from the wrong filler tube.
You will have to remove the air filter box from the engine.
Then look carefully near the back of the engine near the firewall, there will be 2 tubes with caps on both of them. The one you want will have a plastic lock pin in it (the lower tube closer to the center back part of the engine). This cap should say "MB Workshop Only". This is the correct measure/filler tube for the transmission fluid. Pull the plastic lock pin on the cap and measure your transmission fluid level from this tube (engine warm and running). You can get a replacement lock pin form the dealer.

The other one with the short 2" long (50mm) stubby end is the measure tube for the engine oil.
If you poured Transmission fluid down this tube, you should drain ALL your engine oil, replace the filter and add new engine oil.
Hope you figure out your problem. Good Luck .

 

Many Thanks, 1st Lite,

You are right, I did fill into the wrong tube, it was covered by the engine cover, I hadn't figured out how to remove the cover until your post. Now I had changed oil again. The thing is I pulled off the lock pin from the real cap, but I still can't pull off the cap, I am figuring it out. Now I am thinking since I gone this far, maybe I really need to change the transmission filter altogether.

 

When you pull (break) the lock pin from the cap, press/push the remaining tab from the pin down the filler tube then pull the cap off.
Measure the fluid level, then drain the the fluid from the Transmission pan. Should be approximately 4 litres drained if the level was measured full on the Trans. measure tool (balance is in the torque converter & lines). Make sure the pan is cleaned along with the transmission surface where the new gasket will be used. Replace with new filter, pan gasket and fluid. Word of caution, do not overfill. It's easier to add more tranny fluid than trying to syphon or drain a small amount out.
Let us know how everything goes.

 

Step
Away
From
THE
Toolbox!

Get
A
Mechanic!
Flush the crankcase, flush the tranny!

Are you for real? Or is this a joke?
You obviously didn't do any research, and don't have a clue about cars if you can't tell the tranny from the engine.
DIY isn't for everyone, and this is a prime example.

 

how do you drain the converter/crank case? When you change the fluid and fliter you are not draining the tranny fluid in the bell housing!! HELP!!!!!!!!!

 

The plug to drain the torque converter in the 5 speed auto was removed about 2000.

 

not sure what you mean? Check out this thread....
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...-question.html

 

Look at the years of the cars/transmissions they are posting about. Your year does not have a plug in the TC.

 

your right!
My bad, I missed the year they were talking about.
Do you know how to get the tranny oil out of the converter to get a true tranny oil change?

 

how do we get the rest of the tranny fluid out of the car if there is no converter drain plug?

 

you will have to go to the radiator end of the car to do this. There are 2 lines exiting the radiator which are the tranny oil lines, basically the tranny oil has its own little cooling circut built into the radiator. One of the line is going in and the other is coming out of the radiator and going back to the tranny. Remove the line that is coming from the engine going TO the radiator, hook it to a clear hose and dump the other end of the clear hose into a measurable container. Start the engine and drain about 2quarts from the tranny ( You might need the help of a friend). When you get 2 qts out shut off the engine and fill in 2 qts of fresh tranny fuild into the tranny. Repeat the process till you see nice clear red colored fuild coming out of the clear hose. You should need approximately 12 qts to do a complete tranny oil change this includes the 4 qts that you used while dropping the pan replacing the gasket and tranny filter.

Search there is a DIY done and documented.....may be not for your year model but the idea is similar.

Basically you are using the existing tranny fuild pump on the engine to allow you to replace all the oil from the convertor and the tranny oil cooler.....

goodluck...

Javvy...
PS: I am dreading this job but will accomplish it when my time comes closer.

 

Yes,.... SEARCH for it. C230_Sport_Coup did a thorough DIY write-up.

It might be 14-15 liters in total for full transmission oil change. It will be messy and expensive (about $20 per liter). Unless you have high mileage and haven`t done partial transmission oil & filter change every 39K miles (60K km), I would suggest sticking with the partial transmission oil and filter change,.... and pray!

 

The fluid does not have to be expensive https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5095000
we found shell 134 really cheap from Rider the truck company http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
$5.38 a quart and yes it says Pennzoil but it is shell 134 many of us on here have bought from them and it is what I currently have in my transmission I bought 14quarts and needed just over 13 to get the fluid to a nice color and topped up correctly.

 

Ok, now I understand. The thing is.... will I need to first do the pan job, refill after pan job and than do the cooler line flush from the radiator? If so, I will waste potential new fluid during the cooler line flush....I purchased a case of shell trqnny fluid from ryder for $74 includes shipping!!

 

Yeah you do the pan and then once that's done and you top back up the fluid you do the cooler flush. Its not that bad just takes time and is a little messy if you are not careful I got a tarp to put under the full length of my car to catch and fluid.

 

Thanks for everyone's help. I did not feel comfortable disconnecting the lines from the radiator. There were these metal clips that held them on the radiator and if I broke one it would have caused more problems. I can always do the changes more often to eventually get the rest of the old stuff out. Thanks

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...n-related.html

Just C Clips on the trans cooler hoses at the rad.
You have take bolts out of the support brackets that hold the hood latch, and
there's a little thing that bolts the 2 hoses together that you remove so you can just undo the
top cooling hose, and then replace the oring when you are done.
No big deal really. The hard part is dropping the pan.
And yeah. since there's no drain plug for the TC, you do waste some fluid.
Also no big.

See my pdf.