After work im thinking about buying a OBD II reader so i can pull codes from the car. If its worth spending 100 dollars. i will take off ignition cables and boxes. To see if the leak is coming from the valve cover or spark plugs.

Do you think its a good idea to remove ignition cables and boxes to see were the leak is coming from?

 

Correct.

Not a bad idea but don't forget about that knocking sound. That needs to be addressed ASAP. You might get a good feel by reading the codes but you might still need to do some other hands-on troubleshooting. Let us know what codes you get...

 

Is it worth the 100 dollars for the scanner though?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3389

Or

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3389

 

You can find them cheaper than that, that way you have more on oyur pocket for the repairs...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94169

 

Pulled codes from car and i got

P0300- Random / Multiple Cylinder misfire detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

Could this be due to the OIL on the cap?

 

Ok...even if the oil is causing a misfire (likely not) the real problem is how the oil got on the plug wires. Can you get a closer look as to the source of the oil leak?

Seriously I would stop running this engine (I know it was probably started to check the CEL).

My previous car, a Saab 9-5, detonated a piston which took out a couple valves... it TICKED.

Ticking is an indication of a valve train problem.

As far as a compresion check, if you get pressure (oil, fumes, or smoke) coming out of the oil filler cap, that is from blow by.

 

theres no smoke coming out the back of the car.. i took the caps off and i looked inside the caps and there like rusty or burnt or something i will show you pictures while there off brb let me take them

 

Back to square 1. Unfortunately, we already knew there was multiple cylinder misfire and the codes don't tell us a whole lot. Have you removed the spark plugs yet? How do they look?

Disagree with you. The oil COULD cause a misfire! It's soaking the cable and it gets absorbed, the cable looses resistance and gets soft and soggy and they could short causing the miss.

Also, to read the codes, most of the time you don't have to get the car started as long as the OBD II has the option and the CEL is still on (even with it off on some cars you can read codes.

And last, I will agree with you on the ticking sound...usually ticking comes from the valves ot the valve body but usually knocking comes from the bottom end (like connecting rods).

Removing the plugs will give a feel of oil, carbon deposit, detonation , air/fuel mixture and/or even fluids like coolant. I think would the best thing to do in an attempt of troubleshooting. After this, and if the plugs don't provide a lot of info, probably a compression test would be good.

Again, my $.02

 

Theres no ticking what i thought i heard was the motor just misfiring i believe..

Im only getting one code now
P0305

I haven't remove the spark plugs because im buying tools as i work on the car what tools would be needed would be great.


I only removed the left side plugs...
Check out these pictures of the plugs what is this rust color?

 

miles on the car?Has anyone ever changed the plugs?Looks like the plug seal on #5 is loose causing the blow by and the compression oil on the wire.Clean the wire with some wd40 install a new plug tighten it properly and see what happens.
ohlord
don't tug on the wires and leave the coil ends hooked up.just remove the metal boot end at the plug.

 

im just about to hit 80k miles i don't know if the spark plugs were changed.

What type of tool do i need to remove them?

Good time to replace all spark plugs?

 

is much easier with the use of the 17mm offset boot wrench.PM me I have a good delivered price,with removal tips.All m112 and m113 engines follow basically the same procedure. you can use ngk 7090 plugs,they are oe single side electrode platinum plugs and a torx bit to remove the coils, a thin walled 5/8 spark socket and a short extension.diy on benzworld.org w210 diy section.
100k is normal for plugs,but if you don't know the history,maybe the po had done them early and not tightened them properly.pm me we can talk about cleaning it up and trying the simple solutions first.
ohlord

 

Yes, you need to remove the plugs, inspect them and more-than-likely replace them while at it.

I agree and beleive will do the trick!

 

I will take a picture of old spark plugs replaced with new ones.. still has the same issue.. im getting so ****ing pissed off right now i just spent so much time. trying to fix this peice of ****..

Im just gonna get the car towed to a local self owned shop as i can't afford the dealer. But im pretty sure the valve cover is leaking... Still getting error P0305

Getting very pissed off feels like i broke my lower back from bending over so much.

Just sick and tired of bull **** ppl walk by and say gorgeous car / nice car blah blah the car is JUNK..

 

You need to go through this by a logical process of elimination if you don't want to pay the dealer a fortune.

- Are you quite satisfied that there are no knocks or persistent ticks? Aside from valve gear, ticks can be caused by broken rings or simple things like a spark jumping to earth. Let us know
- You have replaced all 12 plugs, no change? - Correct?
- You had just filled up with gas when this happened? - Correct?
- Are you sure you did not pick up a bad tank of gas? eg water in it which will be sitting in the bottom of your tank. If it was dirt & blocked the filter you should get a lean mixture code but might not so check the fuel filter. You must check the fuel & fuel supply if I've understood your posts correctly or you will pull half the car apart for nothing.
- If it's not fuel and there are no knocks or ticks then plug leads & coils have to be the next thing you check. Before we take this further please check the fuel & filter and report on the above for clarity. Then we can help you further - good luck I used to work for the company you filled at. Problems from all companies are more common than you think. Remember that compression suppresses spark. If you have lazy HT the car will miss when you place the engine under load.

BTW - the oil leaks you show in your pics are in my opinion minor at present. They need to be fixed but I would not loose sleep about them until the problem is diagnosed & as long as there are no loud knocks you can run the engine for diagnosis purposes. If it was about to put a leg out of bed (throw a con rod you would know about it)

Don't loose heart - they are great cars but complex

 

Not so - I always check my oil when the engine is cold & the car has stood overnight - the correct time. Situations b & c are obvious

 

I love the car to death and the miles i put on it owning it is just amazing.

Should i go buy maf cleaner?
Fuel Filter looks old i will go take a picture of it and show you guys.

I replaced all 12 plugs

These are the old plugs as you can see two plugs had a little oil on the bottom.



Going to eat and take a picture of the fuel filter

 

Kris, hang in there - please answer all my questions in detail. You can tell nothing about the filter externally. You need to take it out and see if it's blocked & drain some fuel out of that thing at the same time into a clean glass bottle & look for water etc

 

The plugs needed replacement but none of them is a disaster considering you have been experiencing misfires & they have not been running in the self cleaning range prior to removal. In fact I would consider them encouraging and you have already said that the car is not smoking.

Bugger the MAF for now. You must stick to a planned elimination of potential problems & I think you might have picked up a bad tank of gas that is causing all the problems.

If you want to check the MAF just unplug it. The car will run fine. This forces the CPU to run the engine on a standard default map. It should drive fine with the MAF disconnected. Not optimum but fine.

Please don't think I'm being difficult - I'm just trying to help in a logical fashion - it's 3,27 in the morning this end and I must get some sleep. I really do sympathise - we all get the ****s when our cars misbehave

Please answer ALL of my questions above

 

1. I can't really hear any ticks or knocking sounds.
2. I changed all 12 spark plugs today
3. For the fuel filter whats a safe way to get some gas out? to check if there is any water.
4. You talked about noises from the motor knocking ticking because i don't know if its the fuel injectors making noise or if its something else. I can record a video on my camera of the motor sound. If needed
5. I'm going to go unplug the MAF sensor real quick and see if that does anything.


Its Odd because my car was acting perfectly fine the whole day. And right when i get gas half a tanks worth. I drive up a hill and floor it the car only had like half the power and the CEL light was on. So thats when i pulled over and said WTF. When i was driving home i would give the car gas and it would be okay tell about 2500-3000 RPM then i will feel the car kind sputter or shake a little..

Right now at idle the car shakes just a little. loss of power when pushing the car over 3000 RPM

Only Code i get is P0305

 

-Right - so there is a misfire on Cylinder 5 - can you identify for me which plugs came out of cylinder 5 and are you able to do a compression test on cylinder 5? Try & swap coils & plug leads from cylinder 5 with another set and see if the misfire changes cylinder with the swap over. Hope the leads will reach. This will tell you if you have a coil or lead problem.

- Report what unplugging the MAF does

- Regarding safe fuel check. Take the fuel filter off & clamp or block off fuel lines. Keep dirt out of the fuel system. You will spill some fuel - let it evapourate completely. Keep all sources of ignition well away from where you work. Let some fuel run out of the pipe on the inlet side of the filter into a clean glass jar and look for dirt, water, etc. The fuel will float on top of the water. Blow through the filter in the direction the fuel flows to check for blockage. Use compressed air or a piece of pipe. On no account get fuel in your mouth

- I might be wrong - but it is seems too much of a coincidence that you had the problem after refueling. If it was my car I would phone the gas station and ask them to be honest - did they have any other complaints on the day you filled. I would then take the car to them and make them drain & flush the tank & put fresh fuel in it.

It's now 4:13 am - I must go to bed. Will come back onto the forum after some sleep & before today's F1 race.

This will give you some time to mess up your weekend checking these things - go buy a compression gauge from Sears if you don't have one. If you have trouble getting fuel out of the fuel line release the fuel cap. This will tell you if the cap vent is blocked - this should throw a code if it's blocked but does not always do this - sorry - I don't know the code.

The only good news I can give you at present is that you are saving yourself a lot of money - change the fuel filter while it's off. It could be fuel starvation - this should throw a code, however

BTW injectors do make a noise. I'm only talking about loud unusual noises. These are not the quietest engines hood up

 

Thank you for all the useful INFO i will get on this tomorrow.. But for now im going to relax.. have a good day at the F1 Races =D

Ill post an update tomorrow when i get a compression gauge and a new fuel filter

 

Good man

 

I agree...and like I mentioned on post #22, I would do a compression test on all cylinders, specially that #5.

 

That's what I was thinking, hence my post about the fuel (# 18).

can't wait to see McLaren-Mercedes run at SPA in a few hours !!



Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com
_______________
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