Wow Check engine light




Keep rolling Bro and Thank You for the help as well!




Thank you guys im so happy you guys made me love my baby again!!!
I told my girlfriend the truth today that i love my car more then her...
But i made it up 2 her.
That's cuz cars dont fight back.
LOL.
Been in the same boat before, LOL. Be careful! I'm single for a reason.
hahaha.



Now I have a question for you. What code scanner did you buy? Did you need to get a conversion cable for it to fit the MB round diagnostic plug?
It fits perfectly in the slot under the dash. And if it worked for me. Then im sure it would work for others. I bought it at kragen Auto Parts
Cars are smart enough these days that if the engine starts to overheat or something else is going on, the computer will put the vehicle into 'limp mode'. You might start it up again after things have cooled down to see if there's still a CEL (if not, the code should still be stored). Of course, there had to be a problem to trigger this event in the first place ... but you could just be low on coolant or oil. Good Luck!!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Just wanted to post an FYI for anyone who may read this. Autozone will no longer check codes for free in California. Apparently there was this big legal battle between a bunch of mechanics and the auto parts stores because people were getting their codes read then fixing the problems at home, thus costing the mechanics potential business.
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
P0305
P0300
Your getting almost the same codes as i was getting.. Now i replaced all my wires for 270 dollars.
What you can do is Cylinder 2 and 5 are misfiring so take the whole coil pack N wires from Cylinder 2 and swap it with NUMBER 1 // Take 1 and put it on number 2
Take your coil Pack N Wires from Cylinder 5 and swap it with cylinder 4 // Take your pack from 4 and put it on 5
Reset CODES!! make sure you reset twice just to be safe!
Start your car. let it idle for a min. so oil can go through the motor.. ( Don't rev the motor to hard when its cold )
Or you can take a 2 min drive your choice.
Your cel should come back on but it could read
P0301
P0304
P0300
If it does your coil packs are bad because you already said you replaced all your wires. How many miles are on your whip

Change coilpacks.
Before replacing the wires, the car was running fine with no check engine light, the only problem was a lumpy idle.
After replacing the wires, the lumpy idle is gone, but a new problem emerged. I'm thinking I might have conected one of 2 cables in the wrong coil pack...???
Last night I unplugged one of the spark plug cables and started the car. It idled perfect. I think what makes the diagnosis more complicated is the "twin spark" design because all cylinders are still getting a least 1 spark if the other one failed.
I'm going to swap the coils later to see what kind of readings I get, I'll let you know.
Thanks again.
I drove to Autozone and on the way there I accelerated to full speed and CEL came on again, but now is flashed a few times (maybe 6 or 7 times) and then it stayed on. When I got back home, I parked in the garage, turn it off, turn it on again, and the CEL is gone now...???
I'm going to check the other 3 cylinders to see if the wires match the letters on the coil packs. BTW, is that the correct order?
What you need to do is take the whole coil pack / and the two wires that come off of it and switch it with a different cylinder.. It really shouldn't matter which order they are in.. I know there are some cables that are shorter then the others.. but those are made for cylinder 6 and 3 i believe
Let me go look at my car real quick and get back at yah
I swaped the coils and here are the readings: P0302, P0305, and P0300.
Same as before, I think the coils are fine and something is wrong with the wires.
I'm going to put the old wires back to see what happens, if that fixes the problem then I have defective wires or maybe I'm not pushing the leads all the way in (it's hard to do due to limited space) and are not making good contact...???
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
Congrats man keep on rolling!




I mean the last set I bought (Bosch) were like $20 for a 4 cyl.
wow...thats alot of change....
and if 210 wasn't bad enough the dealer wanted...
whhhhhaaaaattttt?
Another reason to love the M111 !!! No plug wires!
The coil packs sit directly on the top of the spark plugs at $40 each.
Unfortunately the heat kills them, and
when one goes out, usually around 50-70K miles. the car runs like a lawnmower.
Definitely keep one in the trunk.
Anyway, good lesson learned.
New parts aren't alway good.
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; May 19, 2009 at 02:18 AM.
The wires did not look cheap to me, actually the opposite, they look like good German quality. What really got me was that the new wires made the lumpy idle disappeared, so it didn't occur to me that they could be bad.
Lesson learned for sure.



