infected

You guys can ignore my post above if you want but replace the alternator. Seriously.

rabney72

I plan on doing that. Did you experience the noise we're having and it go away with a replacement?

infected

Yes same thing happened to me and it was the alternator. Replace the entire unit, it isn't worth the time playing around with the bearing.

rabney72

Just ordered it, 180 on oreilly auto

seagel1000

Oh man. It seems i'm going to have to go this route.

rabney72

So I just got around to working on the car.....got the alternator pulled and the idler pulley. I need a special driver to remove the tensioner pulley...and why has everybody been saying to replace the entire tensioner bracket when the pully can just be removed?..See pic




I also have to say... the alternator pulley and idler bearings both feel good. I have a bad feeling that the culprit is the compressor (supercharger)...But I hope Infected is right and my car will be squeak free by the end of the week

seagel1000

Let me know how it goes bro! I'm anxious to see what's up! It looks like you removed the idler pulley. The bracket belongs to the tensioner pulley (correct me if I'm wrong though)

rabney72

got the tensioner pulley off today, separate from the bracket....

rabney72

fixed it....

details here :
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...pressor-2.html

pcy

rabney72, where did you find just the pulley for the belt tensioner? All the parts places I looked-up, they sell the entire tensioner assembly... none of them sell the pulley itself.

seagel1000

According to his new response this morning, he bought the whole assembly but only ended up using the pulley. He pulled it off the assembly and installed it alone (avoiding the hassle of removing the SC & anything required to replace it).

capt_paul

My rebuilt alternator that I ordered should be here today. I previously replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley was good, so I am leaning towards the alternator on being the cause of the noise.

I am going to hold on to the alternator once it is pulled off and if we can show MB that it is a common issue on the 2005 C230's, perhaps we can get compensated for the replacement.

I will be so glad once the screech is gone.

rabney72

Exactly, I would of used the old tensioner pulley and just matched it at the local parts house to another one but I didnt have time. I am still going to find one and put it on the bracket assume and take it back.

Btw the Torque spec for both pulleys is 25N-m.

infected

Glad you replaced the alternator.

rsxnut1

I have the exact same symptoms, but the rattle sounds like it is coming from under the airbox . I'm tempted to just replace the alternator, but it looks like a pain!

seagel1000

Hey rabney

Any chance you can post up quick instructions on how you replaced each part (tools, procedures, etc.)? *You also mentioned a T-50Torx with .15" drilled hole in the center of? (what was the purpose of drilling the hole?)*

I'm going to try and tackle the pulleys this weekend.

Thanks

rabney72

The noise did come from under the air box.

rabney72

Sure but it'll be this afternoon. The purpose of the hole is because the bolt head on the tensioner pulley is a "tamper resistant" that has a cylindrical boss in the center of the torx pattern, so in order to mesh to it I had to drill a hole. Btw they sell these tools but often not in that large of a head size (t50).

seagel1000

Thanks man, take your time!

I'll have to drop by Harbor Freight to pick up some tools.

rabney72

well I haven't had much time to do a write up.

Follow the instructions in this post (scroll down), up to step 6. And disregard any a/c related steps.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html

Pretty much the tools you need are:

- 3/8" and 1/4" drive socket wrenches
- 10mm, 7mm, 8mm, 13mm socket
- a 3/8" gear wrench is ideal for the bottom two bolts of the alternator (get from the underside)
- two different torx female sockets (i'll get the size of them later) for bolts like on the idler pulley, wideband silencer bracket, frame support (that goes over the radiator) as well as the alternator bracket
- the special "tamper resistant" t50 male torx with the .15 hole in the center for the tensioner pulley
-t60 torx to release the belt tensioner
- needle nose pliers and a skinny flat head screwdriver to release the rings off of the radiator and intake hoses.

That should be about it. Once you get to step 6 in those instructions, it should be fairly straight forward, just removal of the components...

If you need further detail, I'll try to figure out how to post instructions from the MB manual...

Or just call me...

512-563-5359

capt_paul

I just finished the installation of the new (rebuilt) alternator. The one removed was a Valeo (as opposed to the Bosch alternator). It would be interesting if all the alternators removed from the cars with the squealling problems were due to Valeo units.

Anyways, no more squeals!

Glyn M Ruck

Capt Paul - this would be very interesting. Apart from the wealth of learning I've enjoyed from this forum - most of my experience is with SA assembled cars.

No Valeo radiators or alternators have ever been fitted here because both Behr & Bosch have plants in SA to support our local content program. Noisy alternators are not a common occurrence here.

Pleased the noise is gone.

rsxnut1

Hmmmm... So when the alternator kicks in, that puts the load on the AC comp causing it to rattle under the airbox? I wonder why it only does it when idling in gear?

rabney72

Mine was a valeo... But it had Bosch electonics

rabney72

Btw guys, what intervals do these cars need a tune up? And what does that entail, just plugs and wires