Suggestions on irregular tire wear
#1
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Suggestions on irregular tire wear
Hey guys,
I need some suggestions on an issue that I have. I got a flat (in the rain) and I noticed I have insane rear inner tire wear (both tires). I browsed the forum and still haven't found the right solution. Some people mentioned an alignment, some people blamed the wheels and some even blamed the tires![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Below is how my rear tires look (fronts are perfectly fine). I'm at 50k miles and if I do need some sort of alignment should I change my control arms, bushing and shocks/dampers as well...at 50k miles?
For almost 3 months now I drive 50 miles more a week but longer trips. Before I use to drive 50 miles less but shorter trips. I'm assuming the longer trips are putting more wear but why only inner and only rear?
Thanks a lot,
-Karo
I need some suggestions on an issue that I have. I got a flat (in the rain) and I noticed I have insane rear inner tire wear (both tires). I browsed the forum and still haven't found the right solution. Some people mentioned an alignment, some people blamed the wheels and some even blamed the tires
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Below is how my rear tires look (fronts are perfectly fine). I'm at 50k miles and if I do need some sort of alignment should I change my control arms, bushing and shocks/dampers as well...at 50k miles?
For almost 3 months now I drive 50 miles more a week but longer trips. Before I use to drive 50 miles less but shorter trips. I'm assuming the longer trips are putting more wear but why only inner and only rear?
Thanks a lot,
-Karo
Last edited by W203E35; 12-01-2010 at 11:21 AM.
#2
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yeeyah! camber ftl!
are you on lowering springs or coils? i can't recall, my bad karo... LOL but if you are, then there's a great possibility you are running more negative camber than stock. but even then that seems really weird for camber wear...
are you on lowering springs or coils? i can't recall, my bad karo... LOL but if you are, then there's a great possibility you are running more negative camber than stock. but even then that seems really weird for camber wear...
#4
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06 C230 SS 6spd
yeah karo, looks like you need an alignment. You really should do an alignment whenever you change suspension components out. Usually the rears get more negative camber whenever a car is lowered so thats probably why its only your rears mainly. You can run some negative camber like -1 or maybe -2 and have little uneven wear, just make sure your toes are at 0.
#6
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
i can't remember if your car was lowered or not. If it is, you need adjustable camber arms to reduce the negative camber back to oem spec.
basically something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_1059wt_755
basically something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_1059wt_755
#7
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i can't remember if your car was lowered or not. If it is, you need adjustable camber arms to reduce the negative camber back to oem spec.
basically something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_1059wt_755
basically something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_1059wt_755
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
dAyum karo, i thought you would know about camber wear, considering your mb electronics expertise! LOL <3
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#8
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Karo - Putting larger wheels/tyres on the rear increases negative camber but thats awful.
Get it to an alignment shop with new rear camber bolts & correct camber. Also ensure that toe-in spec is correct. Benz run toe-in on the rear & yours looks to be out.
Get it to an alignment shop with new rear camber bolts & correct camber. Also ensure that toe-in spec is correct. Benz run toe-in on the rear & yours looks to be out.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-07-2010 at 08:18 AM.
#9
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2005 c230k ss, 2005 Land Rover LR3, 2006 Honda S2000
I'm curious to see your pre alignment camber reading
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
def alignment....i had this issue a few years back on my toyo t1r's...my tires loooked fine from the road but when I lifted the car to replace my brake pads I noticed the insane wear on my inner rear tires...a simple alignment fixed it up for me (although I needed new tires by this point) woohoo for 700 in tires!
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#12
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if you haven't had an alignment done in a while, you definitely need to do it.
also, I'd recommend a shop that deals with modded cars and knows how to properly align them. not all alignment places are equal.
also, I'd recommend a shop that deals with modded cars and knows how to properly align them. not all alignment places are equal.
#13
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Thanks for all your help guys. I'll take it to an allignment shop. Weird thing is all the stuff I read before making this thread had to do with the car being dropped but my springs are stock and no spacers. Before when I had the toyos on there I never had a problem like this. I guess they just got out of spec. Again thanks for all your help.
Once I get the allignment I'll post the camber results.
Once I get the allignment I'll post the camber results.
#15
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white and whiter
did the tires came with the rim? if it did then the car had it on previously was probably lowered and had camber wear already. once the tire started wearing certain way they're not going to stop even if you don't have a camber problem.
#16
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#18
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Thread Starter
Patrick is done. I got tired of him, he was too much of a screamer..if you know what I mean.
I got an alignment today and they said the rears are fine![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
My scanner is acting up and I typed out the results. Can you guys please look at the results. The only thing I can tell is the Green and Red
.
So if my rears were fine then why the hell did I get uneven tire wear? I bought new rear tires and had the alignment done with the new rears. I cheaped out and bought Diamondback tires (265/30/19) for 105 bucks a piece (including mounting and balance) walked out with 290 dollars less...cheaper than a night out with Patrick.
Does my alignment specs look right? Whats the reason for rear inner tire wear if the alignment is ok?
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate everyones help
I got an alignment today and they said the rears are fine
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
My scanner is acting up and I typed out the results. Can you guys please look at the results. The only thing I can tell is the Green and Red
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
So if my rears were fine then why the hell did I get uneven tire wear? I bought new rear tires and had the alignment done with the new rears. I cheaped out and bought Diamondback tires (265/30/19) for 105 bucks a piece (including mounting and balance) walked out with 290 dollars less...cheaper than a night out with Patrick.
Does my alignment specs look right? Whats the reason for rear inner tire wear if the alignment is ok?
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate everyones help
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by W203E35; 12-01-2010 at 11:21 AM.
#19
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06 C230 SS 6spd
Since your rear tires are wider than OEM, I'm thinking that even though the camber is in the specificed range, it being lowered and having a negative camber that its putting most of the pressure on the inner tire causing the wearing. Its like in this picture, image that that's your OEM wheel, now image that you have your aftermarket wheel on its going to put even more pressure on the inner wheel and have the outter with less contact because your added an inch or so extra to the width of the wheel. Well thats what I think of it anyways. I'd invest in a camber kit though and ask them to get it closer to 0 for your camber.
![](http://www.rc-setup.com/guide_files/image002.jpg)
Last edited by phister; 10-10-2010 at 06:01 AM.
#20
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Alot of people here are missing the point that your car is STOCK HEIGHT. I see a few things that are causing the problem. 1st, it appears that something is wrong with the right rear of your car. Camber is out of spec (too negative), and your toe is on the hairy edge of out of spec. Those 2 things, much wider than stock wheel/tire combo, cheap tires, combined with your driving style
are likely the issue. Did you whack that right rear at some point on a curb or something?
I would suggest getting camber arms, dialing in the camber ~-.8, and reducing the toe out on the right side to match the left. Lots of toe out will wear the inside tread like that, and is often overlooked and mistaken for only a camber issue.
Looking at your alignment report again, the front of your car is whack too?!?! Too much negative camber up front too. You need to get the alignment bolts for the front to take care of that.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
I would suggest getting camber arms, dialing in the camber ~-.8, and reducing the toe out on the right side to match the left. Lots of toe out will wear the inside tread like that, and is often overlooked and mistaken for only a camber issue.
Looking at your alignment report again, the front of your car is whack too?!?! Too much negative camber up front too. You need to get the alignment bolts for the front to take care of that.
Last edited by johnand; 10-10-2010 at 09:44 AM.
#21
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Thread Starter
Alot of people here are missing the point that your car is STOCK HEIGHT. I see a few things that are causing the problem. 1st, it appears that something is wrong with the right rear of your car. Camber is out of spec (too negative), and your toe is on the hairy edge of out of spec. Those 2 things, much wider than stock wheel/tire combo, cheap tires, combined with your driving style
are likely the issue. Did you whack that right rear at some point on a curb or something?
I would suggest getting camber arms, dialing in the camber ~-.8, and reducing the toe out on the right side to match the left. Lots of toe out will wear the inside tread like that, and is often overlooked and mistaken for only a camber issue.
Looking at your alignment report again, the front of your car is whack too?!?! Too much negative camber up front too. You need to get the alignment bolts for the front to take care of that.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
I would suggest getting camber arms, dialing in the camber ~-.8, and reducing the toe out on the right side to match the left. Lots of toe out will wear the inside tread like that, and is often overlooked and mistaken for only a camber issue.
Looking at your alignment report again, the front of your car is whack too?!?! Too much negative camber up front too. You need to get the alignment bolts for the front to take care of that.
![rolf](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rofl.gif)
Thanks again for your help.
#22
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Thread Starter
Since your rear tires are wider than OEM, I'm thinking that even though the camber is in the specificed range, it being lowered and having a negative camber that its putting most of the pressure on the inner tire causing the wearing. Its like in this picture, image that that's your OEM wheel, now image that you have your aftermarket wheel on its going to put even more pressure on the inner wheel and have the outter with less contact because your added an inch or so extra to the width of the wheel. Well thats what I think of it anyways. I'd invest in a camber kit though and ask them to get it closer to 0 for your camber.
![](http://www.rc-setup.com/guide_files/image002.jpg)
![](http://www.rc-setup.com/guide_files/image002.jpg)
#23
Super Moderator
Your chassis’ front and rear negative camber settings are adjusted toward those minimally acceptable for proper cornering dynamics. Mine has substantially more than yours to help mitigate outer tire wear. Respectfully suggest increasing aft toe, and/or verifying arm and bushing condition.
Failing that, getting after it on a closed course road circuit will likely serve to even up tread wear.
#24
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+1
Curious you’ve prematurely burned up those tires long before their time.
Your chassis’ front and rear negative camber settings are adjusted toward those minimally acceptable for proper cornering dynamics. Mine has substantially more than yours to help mitigate outer tire wear. Respectfully suggest increasing aft toe, and/or verifying arm and bushing condition.
Failing that, getting after it on a closed course road circuit will likely serve to even up tread wear.
Curious you’ve prematurely burned up those tires long before their time.
Your chassis’ front and rear negative camber settings are adjusted toward those minimally acceptable for proper cornering dynamics. Mine has substantially more than yours to help mitigate outer tire wear. Respectfully suggest increasing aft toe, and/or verifying arm and bushing condition.
Failing that, getting after it on a closed course road circuit will likely serve to even up tread wear.
#25
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2009 SLK 55 AMG
Those look like my friend's tires, except slightly not as bad as his. Probably 1 or 2k more miles away, haha.
Really really scary knowing afterwards that the tire could've exploded on any of those trips
Really really scary knowing afterwards that the tire could've exploded on any of those trips