04 C240 4Matic: Replaced Wheel Lug Bolts, Now Hear Constant Clicking
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
04 C240 4Matic: Replaced Wheel Lug Bolts, Now Hear Constant Clicking
Morning fellas.
Well, the title of the thread says it all.
I'm not sure what is happening here - could the bolts be touching the brake caliper and causing it to click?
The only difference between these lug bolts and the stock lug bolts is the size.
Stock lug bolts are 39 millimeters as far as I know - the new ones are 42 millimeters.
I figured it would be a good idea to get them a little bigger because the stock bolts seem really short and I feel like they are barely holding on.
Did I screw up (no pun intended)? Are these cars that sensitive to the point where 3 millimeters make a difference?
And I'm certain its the wheel lug bolts because the clicking sound never happened until after I replaced them just last night.
Basically as the wheels spin you hear a constant clicking sound.
Let me know what you think guys.
Well, the title of the thread says it all.
I'm not sure what is happening here - could the bolts be touching the brake caliper and causing it to click?
The only difference between these lug bolts and the stock lug bolts is the size.
Stock lug bolts are 39 millimeters as far as I know - the new ones are 42 millimeters.
I figured it would be a good idea to get them a little bigger because the stock bolts seem really short and I feel like they are barely holding on.
Did I screw up (no pun intended)? Are these cars that sensitive to the point where 3 millimeters make a difference?
And I'm certain its the wheel lug bolts because the clicking sound never happened until after I replaced them just last night.
Basically as the wheels spin you hear a constant clicking sound.
Let me know what you think guys.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 2, 2010 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Incorrect Grammar.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
Morning fellas.
Well, the title of the thread says it all.
I'm not sure what is happening here - could the bolts be touching the brake caliper and causing it to click?
The only difference between these lug bolts and the stock lug bolts is the size.
Stock lug bolts are 39 millimeters as far as I know - the new ones are 42 millimeters.
I figured it would be a good idea to get them a little bigger because the stock bolts seem really short and I feel like they are barely holding on.
Did I screw up (no pun intended)? Are these cars that sensitive to the point where 3 millimeters make a difference?
And I'm certain its the wheel lug bolts because the clicking sound never happened until after I replaced them just last night.
Basically as the wheels spin you hear a constant clicking sound.
Let me know what you think guys.
Well, the title of the thread says it all.
I'm not sure what is happening here - could the bolts be touching the brake caliper and causing it to click?
The only difference between these lug bolts and the stock lug bolts is the size.
Stock lug bolts are 39 millimeters as far as I know - the new ones are 42 millimeters.
I figured it would be a good idea to get them a little bigger because the stock bolts seem really short and I feel like they are barely holding on.
Did I screw up (no pun intended)? Are these cars that sensitive to the point where 3 millimeters make a difference?
And I'm certain its the wheel lug bolts because the clicking sound never happened until after I replaced them just last night.
Basically as the wheels spin you hear a constant clicking sound.
Let me know what you think guys.
The new bolts are just too large, you have to cut them or to change them inmediately, it can cause a serious damage.
Thread Starter
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
I changed bolts for my new rims since the spacers needed it, there was a clicking noise the first day in one wheel and it turned to be a bolt that was HALF MM longer than others!
It may only be a very small difference because if bolts are too long then the wheel would lock and the car wont move.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Yes! If you are running on stock rims and the stock bolts are 39mm keep them in place!
I changed bolts for my new rims since the spacers needed it, there was a clicking noise the first day in one wheel and it turned to be a bolt that was HALF MM longer than others!
It may only be a very small difference because if bolts are too long then the wheel would lock and the car wont move.
I changed bolts for my new rims since the spacers needed it, there was a clicking noise the first day in one wheel and it turned to be a bolt that was HALF MM longer than others!
It may only be a very small difference because if bolts are too long then the wheel would lock and the car wont move.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Really hope it didn't go to all that. I only drove it maybe 1.5 miles max to the shop (all city driving, about 20mph average speed).
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Thanks for your input though.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
Unless it's a body shop that doesn't do body work, why wouldn't they have the equipment to grind down lugbolts?
The "mohel" part was a joke, sorry. Feel free to google it.
The "mohel" part was a joke, sorry. Feel free to google it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
And I got the joke now, lmao
Got another simple question that I couldn't find the answer for with search - why does the car seem like it just wants to GO after initial start? It seems like every time I start it for the first time of the day then put it in gear (Drive or Reverse) the car seems like it instantly hits 2-4 mph. I have to really push down on the brake hard to get the car to stop, and then I hear the errr grinding of metal noise (coming from the rotors I think? but that's a separate issue).
Again let me re-iterate that this only happens right after I start the car for the first time of the day. Anything after that, feels like a normal car
Anyway I would appreciate any feedback, thanks.
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 3, 2010 at 09:00 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
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From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
Absolutely you're right, sorry - just the guy is a friend of my friends though and basically a one-man operation with not that big of a garage, but you're right should have the equipment. Will be visiting him later today so I'll find out for sure then.
And I got the joke now, lmao
Got another simple question that I couldn't find the answer for with search - why does the car seem like it just wants to GO after initial start? It seems like every time I start it for the first time of the day then put it in gear (Drive or Reverse) the car seems like it instantly hits 2-4 mph. I have to really push down on the brake hard to get the car to stop, and then I hear the errr grinding of metal noise (coming from the rotors I think? but that's a separate issue).
Again let me re-iterate that this only happens right after I start the car for the first time of the day. Anything after that, feels like a normal car
Anyway I would appreciate any feedback, thanks.
And I got the joke now, lmao
Got another simple question that I couldn't find the answer for with search - why does the car seem like it just wants to GO after initial start? It seems like every time I start it for the first time of the day then put it in gear (Drive or Reverse) the car seems like it instantly hits 2-4 mph. I have to really push down on the brake hard to get the car to stop, and then I hear the errr grinding of metal noise (coming from the rotors I think? but that's a separate issue).
Again let me re-iterate that this only happens right after I start the car for the first time of the day. Anything after that, feels like a normal car
Anyway I would appreciate any feedback, thanks.
It is absolutely normal that in the first 30sec or 1 min the car feels accelerated.. But if it persist after 1 min then it might be a MAF sensor issue..
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Anyway, got the car back from the shop, guy was nice enough to grind the bolts down for me! No more clicking, and I'm using the same bolts that were producing the clicking, paid $40 shipped for em off eBay. Glad I was able to salvage them instead of wasting more money on more lugs
Ordering the flat badge from formymercedes now as well as a set of 5000k and a set of 8000k AZN Optic city lights. Gonna debadge the back after work with a blow-dryer (couple minutes on each letter) and remove them with some fishing wire.
Still need to get the sway bars and end links re-lubed. They keep squeaking.
Questions about transmission fluid - I was talking to this guy I know that works at the stealership and he told me to NOT replace/flush the transmission fluid because when they are built at the factories they get injected with some kind of special fluid that is only available at the factory. He said if you replace/flush the transmission fluid you will in the long-run end up damaging it because it will be missing that 'special' fluid that the car only gets during initial build.
Any thoughts?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
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From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
Phew, luckily it only happens right after first start.
Anyway, got the car back from the shop, guy was nice enough to grind the bolts down for me! No more clicking, and I'm using the same bolts that were producing the clicking, paid $40 shipped for em off eBay. Glad I was able to salvage them instead of wasting more money on more lugs
Ordering the flat badge from formymercedes now as well as a set of 5000k and a set of 8000k AZN Optic city lights. Gonna debadge the back after work with a blow-dryer (couple minutes on each letter) and remove them with some fishing wire.
Still need to get the sway bars and end links re-lubed. They keep squeaking.
Questions about transmission fluid - I was talking to this guy I know that works at the stealership and he told me to NOT replace/flush the transmission fluid because when they are built at the factories they get injected with some kind of special fluid that is only available at the factory. He said if you replace/flush the transmission fluid you will in the long-run end up damaging it because it will be missing that 'special' fluid that the car only gets during initial build.
Any thoughts?
Anyway, got the car back from the shop, guy was nice enough to grind the bolts down for me! No more clicking, and I'm using the same bolts that were producing the clicking, paid $40 shipped for em off eBay. Glad I was able to salvage them instead of wasting more money on more lugs
Ordering the flat badge from formymercedes now as well as a set of 5000k and a set of 8000k AZN Optic city lights. Gonna debadge the back after work with a blow-dryer (couple minutes on each letter) and remove them with some fishing wire.
Still need to get the sway bars and end links re-lubed. They keep squeaking.
Questions about transmission fluid - I was talking to this guy I know that works at the stealership and he told me to NOT replace/flush the transmission fluid because when they are built at the factories they get injected with some kind of special fluid that is only available at the factory. He said if you replace/flush the transmission fluid you will in the long-run end up damaging it because it will be missing that 'special' fluid that the car only gets during initial build.
Any thoughts?
Boy, don't ever touch the transmission fluid if it is not extremely necessary..
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
I won't touch it if it isn't neccessary. The transmission feels smooth as a baby *** anyway, strange enough, on a 2004 with over 100k miles.
Previous owner must have not beat it up much, and I thank him dearly for that.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Firstly - Change the transmission fluid & filter EVERY 60,000Km or 38,000 miles if you want the tranny to last. That is the Benz global recommendation. Ignore MBUSA. Their stupid filled for life crap & now only one change at 38,000 miles on the 7G is wrong. We have sampled the fluid frequently on these boxes. It needs changing every 60K/38K Km/ml - even the new synthetic long life fluid. I have just changed mine in fact.
Longer lug bolts will not cause a problem on the front but on the rear will foul the parking brake mechanism. This is why cars with steel spare wheels are provided with a set of shorter bolts in the trunk.
You must use the approved range of fluids. No secrets here. We have many threads on the subject. - Search. Oil change is an easy DIY. See all recent threads where I have posted the change & flushing prodedures on the 722.6
When you first start your car in the morning it goes onto high idle and holds gears longer to warm up the Cat's quickly to reduce emissions.
Longer lug bolts will not cause a problem on the front but on the rear will foul the parking brake mechanism. This is why cars with steel spare wheels are provided with a set of shorter bolts in the trunk.
You must use the approved range of fluids. No secrets here. We have many threads on the subject. - Search. Oil change is an easy DIY. See all recent threads where I have posted the change & flushing prodedures on the 722.6
When you first start your car in the morning it goes onto high idle and holds gears longer to warm up the Cat's quickly to reduce emissions.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Nov 3, 2010 at 12:24 PM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Here - I suggest you read this thread. You will find the change & flush procedures posted in pdf. form at the end. Post 9
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...sues-help.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...sues-help.html
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Nov 3, 2010 at 12:29 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Glyn - thank you for chiming in.
I've already read many of your posts and must say that I am absolutely stunned and impressed at the amount of knowledge you carry sir. Hats off to you.
Do you have any idea why the guy at MB was telling me that these transmissions get a special rare fluid pumped into them at the factory that is not available for re-sale, only at the factory. Is he looney? And to be sure, you are telling me that I should change the transmission fluid & filter EVERY ~40k miles? I just want to be sure.
This car is at over 100k and I don't know if the previous owner ever did it. He did do that Service A & B though.
Anyway, was just outside and figured I'd take a shot of my headlights. Can anyone confirm if these are bi-xenons or not?
I've already read many of your posts and must say that I am absolutely stunned and impressed at the amount of knowledge you carry sir. Hats off to you.
Do you have any idea why the guy at MB was telling me that these transmissions get a special rare fluid pumped into them at the factory that is not available for re-sale, only at the factory. Is he looney? And to be sure, you are telling me that I should change the transmission fluid & filter EVERY ~40k miles? I just want to be sure.
This car is at over 100k and I don't know if the previous owner ever did it. He did do that Service A & B though.
Anyway, was just outside and figured I'd take a shot of my headlights. Can anyone confirm if these are bi-xenons or not?
Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 3, 2010 at 12:46 PM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Those are factory fitted BiX with washers under those flaps & auto leveling. The proper set up.
You will hear many BS stories & that is one of them. Where are you? If in the US either buy the fluid from the dealer or use Fuchs Titan 4134 which is the latest fluid, readily available & approved. I can post all the approved fluids if you like but many are difficult to get.
Here is the rear brake diagram. As you can see. If the bolts are too long they go right through the rotor/disc hat & foul the parking brake mechanism.
You will hear many BS stories & that is one of them. Where are you? If in the US either buy the fluid from the dealer or use Fuchs Titan 4134 which is the latest fluid, readily available & approved. I can post all the approved fluids if you like but many are difficult to get.
Here is the rear brake diagram. As you can see. If the bolts are too long they go right through the rotor/disc hat & foul the parking brake mechanism.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Those are factory fitted Bix with washers under those flaps & auto leveling. The proper set up.
You will hear many BS stories & that is one of them. Where are you? If in the US either buy the fluid from the dealer or use Fuchs Titan 4134 which is the latest fluid, readily available & approved. I can post all the approved fluids if you like but many are difficult to get.
Here is the rear brake diagram. As you can see. If the bolts are too long they go right through the rotor/disc hat & foul the parking brake mechanism.
You will hear many BS stories & that is one of them. Where are you? If in the US either buy the fluid from the dealer or use Fuchs Titan 4134 which is the latest fluid, readily available & approved. I can post all the approved fluids if you like but many are difficult to get.
Here is the rear brake diagram. As you can see. If the bolts are too long they go right through the rotor/disc hat & foul the parking brake mechanism.
Yes, unfortunately, I am in the US. Would love to be where you are though. Anyway, the guy must been out his mind, I figured it was a crock of doo-doo anyway.
And thank you for posting that diagram! Are you the MB Encyclopedia or stn, lol? If so can you send me all and every diagram you have of the W203
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
Glyn may be smart, but who saved you money on replacement lug bolts? 
Glad it worked out. As far as the flat badge, I would give serious consideration to buying dfwdude's flat badge (thread at top of this subforum) - it's a dramatic improvement over any available MB badge, and will last the life of your car.
Glad it worked out. As far as the flat badge, I would give serious consideration to buying dfwdude's flat badge (thread at top of this subforum) - it's a dramatic improvement over any available MB badge, and will last the life of your car.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Here are factory BiX fitted to my car
Regarding fluid. If you don't want to get ripped off by a dealer the buy the Fuchs Titan 4134 online from places like RMeuropean. They can sell you filters & pan gaskets as well.
Regarding fluid. If you don't want to get ripped off by a dealer the buy the Fuchs Titan 4134 online from places like RMeuropean. They can sell you filters & pan gaskets as well.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Glyn is just an ordinary guy with an interest in things automotive - audio etc. See my profile.
If you intend dropping your 4 Matic - do your homework. It is not as plain sailing as RWD cars.
If you intend dropping your 4 Matic - do your homework. It is not as plain sailing as RWD cars.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Boston
12 E350 4Matic Sport
Glyn may be smart, but who saved you money on replacement lug bolts?
Glad it worked out. As far as the flat badge, I would give serious consideration to buying dfwdude's flat badge (thread at top of this subforum) - it's a dramatic improvement over any available MB badge, and will last the life of your car.
Glad it worked out. As far as the flat badge, I would give serious consideration to buying dfwdude's flat badge (thread at top of this subforum) - it's a dramatic improvement over any available MB badge, and will last the life of your car.
I did consider getting DFWDude's badge but the price difference is too extreme in my opinion for what is just a piece of metal. Just paid $35 including shipping/handling for the one from formymercedes, will see how it looks.
