Here you go vdemon311

Thanks Karo, much appreciated as always!

On the topic, is there a recommended change interval for these belts, or is it strictly based on visual inspection?

MB has not recommended any specific interval for replacement of belt. Belt needs to be checked during service A and B. If I were you, I would check the condition of the belt at least during every oil change or during any other service is being done.

Ohh, just remembered and throwing this out there. There was a TSB for a squeaking belt tensioner and should be replaced for free. Inquire with your dealer for this and don't let them BS you.

I personally have had this changed for free and know atleast 3 other people who have also.

No problem vdemon, glad I could help. Like you mentioned in the PM the changing of belt and tensioner is self explanatory it's the torquing that's important

Hi Karo, do you happen to have the TSB number for belt tensioner? I'd appreciate it if you can dig out the TSB #.
My experience with MB dealers has been that they won't voluntarily give out anything. I have to show them proof, then they start talking.

Thanks.

Thanks John for posting the TSB for the idler pulley. I have seen this TSB earlier from one of your other posts.

However, Karo was talking about TSB for the belt tensioner. So, I was asking for the TSB for the tensioner. Was Karo talking about the same TSB?

I believe Karo was talking about the idler, as that appears to be the only TSB for belt/accessories that I see in the service bulletins database.

I'm cracked out guys. I didn't mean the tensioner but the idler. Sorry...John to the rescue

Nice sig!!

Hi Guys,
In Step 3 of DIY it says:

3 Loosen poly-V-belt (2) and remove To do this, swivel tensioning device (3) in
anti-clockwise direction at hexagon (4)
(arrow). Remove the poly-V-belt (2) and

slacken the tensioning device (3).

How do you "slacken" the tensioner after turning the hexagon bolt CCW?.

When you turn the tensioner (via 17mm hex nut) counter-clock-wise, you will see the belt loosing it's tension. With one hand on the ratchet on the tensioner, with the second hand you drop the belt away from the idler pulley.

The idler pulley is the guide pulley (#5 in the 1rst pdf) ? there are two pulleys labeled 5. Which one of the guide pulleys is the idler pulley?

I gusess idler is same as guide pulley. some models may more than one guide pulley. I drive the C240 which has only one.

In EPC they both have the same name "Sheave Pulley".

A 272 202 08 19 (bottom)
A 272 202 07 19 (top)

Here are the part numbers.

I'm guessing we have two idler pulleys

I was looking to see if there were any new TSBs on pulleys and found that this idler pully is now an active campaign. I just had my car in for service and of course it wasn't replaced as the letter states. I guess I'll have to rough up my SA.

That's 1 out of the two guide pulleys I ordered to replace. It says to leave the plastic cap off after replacement? I wonder why? So the guide pulley to the right of that, which is slightly larger and has no cap, Mine is making some rattling noise? I ordered both left and right guide pulleys from mymercedesparts.com. What does not make sense is that in the picture http://mymercedesparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215326&cha pter=&Sectionids=0,2308&groupid=51824&subgroupid=2 485&componentid=0&make=67&model=C Class&year=2006&graphicID=5775908&callout=3&catalo gid=2&displayCatalogid=0

They are showing a left and a right guide pulley. The left guide pulley is the one pictured in the campaign pdf with a cap on it, thats 33$, the right guide pulley is 25$, BUT shouldn't the right guide pulley cost more because it is a bigger pulley with a more sophisticated bearing? Not to mention the left+right guide pulleys that are pictured on mymercedes looks nothing like this one in the middle on my car, The one I want to replace.



Someone please help, I want to change the tensioner, v-belt,all guide pulleys and whatever pulley is in the middle in one shot this weekend To conquer all and every rattle/noise they are making. Trying to make sure I have all the parts to do the job. Guide pulleys, belts and tensioner should be here by tomorow... hopefully one of those guide pulleys is the one I need in the middle. I have some doubt that it is.

Left guide pulley is 'grooved'.
Right guide pulley is 'smooth'/'flat.

Look closely at the details in the attached picture below. Part numbers are listed on the left.

Thanks^ just what I needed

Replaced idler and belt over the weekend. It was pretty easy once you start. Having the diagram was essential.

The old pulley had four cracks (12, 3,6, 9 position), but it was spinning freely. The new pulley, only went around no more 2 or 3 rounds when you spin it. Is this normal? The car drives ok with no noise.

Also i rotated the tensioner and it was noisy. I just ordered a new one (AutohauAZ part no. 1122000970URO Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly).

It says this an alternate brand "URO" ( $74 vs $116 for OEM). Hopefully this works as good as OEM.

Yes, the new pullies are nice and tight (right amount of friction is there). As they wear, they spin lot more freely.

Thanks PCY. The tensioner was also free rolling and sounded rough. Glad I ordered a new one. Thanks again.

Hey All,

Just an FYI... if you use us as a supplier and have installation questions, drop us a note on our site or use the 800 number listed on the "contact us" page. I can't guarantee we'll be able to answer every question, but we'll try to help as much as we can...

Jeff

So i changed both pullies and the tensioner, and the belts over the weekend... simple and everything went smoothe thanks to karo and others. All the rumbling and rattling that were coming from the pullies are gone, engine is much quieter, but what still remains is this low rpm "whine". Its literally a whine at low rpm that sounds like it is coming from the top right part of the engine. I originally thought it was just one of the pulleys, but apparently it isn't. Their is very little whine when the engine is just running, apon accelerating (even revving in neutral) up to 3k rpm the whine gets slightly louder and after 3k the exhaust drowns out the sound it seems. Maybe an A/C compressor? Possibly a power steering pump? Someone please provide some insight. The car drives perfectly fine...I would just like to have a whine free vehicle.. especially when stepping on the gas.

have you checked the ps fluid i doubt that is the issue but worth a check.
any way to post a video of it?