V-Belt and Tensioner Replacement M272
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
MB has not recommended any specific interval for replacement of belt. Belt needs to be checked during service A and B. If I were you, I would check the condition of the belt at least during every oil change or during any other service is being done.
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2006 C350 Sport 6MT
Ohh, just remembered and throwing this out there. There was a TSB for a squeaking belt tensioner and should be replaced for free. Inquire with your dealer for this and don't let them BS you.
I personally have had this changed for free and know atleast 3 other people who have also.
No problem vdemon, glad I could help. Like you mentioned in the PM the changing of belt and tensioner is self explanatory it's the torquing that's important
I personally have had this changed for free and know atleast 3 other people who have also.
No problem vdemon, glad I could help. Like you mentioned in the PM the changing of belt and tensioner is self explanatory it's the torquing that's important
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
My experience with MB dealers has been that they won't voluntarily give out anything. I have to show them proof, then they start talking.
Thanks.
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Thanks John for posting the TSB for the idler pulley. I have seen this TSB earlier from one of your other posts.
However, Karo was talking about TSB for the belt tensioner. So, I was asking for the TSB for the tensioner. Was Karo talking about the same TSB?
However, Karo was talking about TSB for the belt tensioner. So, I was asking for the TSB for the tensioner. Was Karo talking about the same TSB?
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I believe Karo was talking about the idler, as that appears to be the only TSB for belt/accessories that I see in the service bulletins database.
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c240
Hi Guys,
In Step 3 of DIY it says:
How do you "slacken" the tensioner after turning the hexagon bolt CCW?.
In Step 3 of DIY it says:
3 Loosen poly-V-belt (2) and remove To do this, swivel tensioning device (3) in
anti-clockwise direction at hexagon (4)
(arrow). Remove the poly-V-belt (2) and
slacken the tensioning device (3).anti-clockwise direction at hexagon (4)
(arrow). Remove the poly-V-belt (2) and
How do you "slacken" the tensioner after turning the hexagon bolt CCW?.
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
When you turn the tensioner (via 17mm hex nut) counter-clock-wise, you will see the belt loosing it's tension. With one hand on the ratchet on the tensioner, with the second hand you drop the belt away from the idler pulley.
Member
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From: Peoria, IL
2007 C350 2015 ML400 1968 Ford Mustang
Ohh, just remembered and throwing this out there. There was a TSB for a squeaking belt tensioner and should be replaced for free. Inquire with your dealer for this and don't let them BS you.
I personally have had this changed for free and know atleast 3 other people who have also.
No problem vdemon, glad I could help. Like you mentioned in the PM the changing of belt and tensioner is self explanatory it's the torquing that's important
I personally have had this changed for free and know atleast 3 other people who have also.
No problem vdemon, glad I could help. Like you mentioned in the PM the changing of belt and tensioner is self explanatory it's the torquing that's important
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2006 c230
They are showing a left and a right guide pulley. The left guide pulley is the one pictured in the campaign pdf with a cap on it, thats 33$, the right guide pulley is 25$, BUT shouldn't the right guide pulley cost more because it is a bigger pulley with a more sophisticated bearing? Not to mention the left+right guide pulleys that are pictured on mymercedes looks nothing like this one in the middle on my car, The one I want to replace.
Someone please help, I want to change the tensioner, v-belt,all guide pulleys and whatever pulley is in the middle in one shot this weekend To conquer all and every rattle/noise they are making. Trying to make sure I have all the parts to do the job. Guide pulleys, belts and tensioner should be here by tomorow... hopefully one of those guide pulleys is the one I need in the middle. I have some doubt that it is.
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From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Left guide pulley is 'grooved'.
Right guide pulley is 'smooth'/'flat.
Look closely at the details in the attached picture below. Part numbers are listed on the left.
Right guide pulley is 'smooth'/'flat.
Look closely at the details in the attached picture below. Part numbers are listed on the left.
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2006 c230
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c240
Replaced idler and belt over the weekend. It was pretty easy once you start. Having the diagram was essential.
The old pulley had four cracks (12, 3,6, 9 position), but it was spinning freely. The new pulley, only went around no more 2 or 3 rounds when you spin it. Is this normal? The car drives ok with no noise.
Also i rotated the tensioner and it was noisy. I just ordered a new one (AutohauAZ part no. 1122000970URO Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly).
It says this an alternate brand "URO" ( $74 vs $116 for OEM). Hopefully this works as good as OEM.
The old pulley had four cracks (12, 3,6, 9 position), but it was spinning freely. The new pulley, only went around no more 2 or 3 rounds when you spin it. Is this normal? The car drives ok with no noise.
Also i rotated the tensioner and it was noisy. I just ordered a new one (AutohauAZ part no. 1122000970URO Accessory Belt Tensioner Assembly).
It says this an alternate brand "URO" ( $74 vs $116 for OEM). Hopefully this works as good as OEM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 24
From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Junior Member
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c240
Former Vendor of MBWorld
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2009
Hey All,
Just an FYI... if you use us as a supplier and have installation questions, drop us a note on our site or use the 800 number listed on the "contact us" page. I can't guarantee we'll be able to answer every question, but we'll try to help as much as we can...
Jeff
Just an FYI... if you use us as a supplier and have installation questions, drop us a note on our site or use the 800 number listed on the "contact us" page. I can't guarantee we'll be able to answer every question, but we'll try to help as much as we can...
Jeff
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2006 c230
So i changed both pullies and the tensioner, and the belts over the weekend... simple and everything went smoothe thanks to karo and others. All the rumbling and rattling that were coming from the pullies are gone, engine is much quieter, but what still remains is this low rpm "whine". Its literally a whine at low rpm that sounds like it is coming from the top right part of the engine. I originally thought it was just one of the pulleys, but apparently it isn't. Their is very little whine when the engine is just running, apon accelerating (even revving in neutral) up to 3k rpm the whine gets slightly louder and after 3k the exhaust drowns out the sound it seems. Maybe an A/C compressor? Possibly a power steering pump? Someone please provide some insight. The car drives perfectly fine...I would just like to have a whine free vehicle.. especially when stepping on the gas.
