Have you done Transmission Fluid yourself?
Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by webking1; Mar 8, 2011 at 11:35 PM.




$260 would only be partial like 4 quarts, as most of the fluid is trapped in the Torque converter and no drain plug. Capacity is about 9 quarts, but it takes 13 to do a full flush, some goes to waste.
Search for my thread on 722.6 DIY
Never mind here it is
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...n-related.html
AND I found this pdf elsewhere but it's just the drain and fill.
Nice pics though. Attached.
Order the Fuchs compatible fluid from rmeuropean dot com
Get a connector with orings from a dealer for about 7 bucks
and use MB filter and gasket.
You'll need orings for the cooling hose to the radiator, if you do the full flush and a crush washer for the pan,
something i forgot.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 8, 2011 at 05:44 PM.
Todd, aka C230 Sport Coup spoonfed you the information for the 722.6 which covers up to model year 2005. 2006-2007 C230's (non-4matic equipped) have the 722.9 transmission.
Last edited by johnand; Mar 8, 2011 at 06:11 PM.
Oh by the way, my local German Auto Indys charges about the same amount. How stupid is that?
You’ve had occasion to read johnand’s excellent DIY, yes?
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Last edited by jspecteggy; Mar 9, 2011 at 06:44 AM.

There are a couple of additional bolts to remove which secure a wiring harness compared to the w203, but you can use the air suspension to raise the car instead of jacking it up which saved time. MAKE SURE YOU STILL PUT STANDS under the car just incase!
Trans fluid change is also not bad if you are just dropping the pan, replacing the filter and pouring new fluid. If you are doing the trans FLUSH, more work involved, more fluid is involved.
eesjunin, when I need to get under the car to work (like changing the trans fluid), I go to a place called 'U do it yourself' in Nashua (near Nashua library). They charge $30 per hour to use 1 bay (that includes the lift and all the tools in that garage). I plan for several things to do with all the parts ready and plan it nicely to use the least amount of time on the hoist/lift.
Last edited by pcy; May 9, 2011 at 09:20 PM.
Trans fluid change is also not bad if you are just dropping the pan, replacing the filter and pouring new fluid. If you are doing the trans FLUSH, more work involved, more fluid is involved.
eesjunin, when I need to get under the car to work (like changing the trans fluid), I go to a place called 'U do it yourself' in Nashua (near Nashua library). They charge $30 per hour to use 1 bay (that includes the lift and all the tools in that garage). I plan for several things to do with all the parts ready and plan it nicely to use the least amount of time on the hoist/lift.
Yeah I have a 2005 C230 1.8L, just looking to make sure of the type of fluids. I plan on ordering all parts as well. The hell with the Stealership!
550 Cad for Flush
700 + for Brakes (Rotors and Pads) which i am going to change myself.
looks easy. even if it costs the same as dealer, I'd rather do it myself just to make sure it's done right + good learning experience.
$260 isn't bad for a dealer. my local stealership wants $400+!!!
local indy charges $260 I believe.
anyway, just found a Navy station that sounds like they rent out lifts.
I'm gonna go check it out. need to replace my fuel filter too and putting the car on a lift would make my life alot easier...
hope it's not too expensive to rent the space... and they let me in since I'm not military.
Yeah i know what you mean... Some pics are missing.. Even though they are great explanation and by no means could I do better.... For individuals not so mech. inclined.... and how ish always goes wrong for me.. I'd be stuck missing a tool lol...




A full flush, once the pan has been dropped, new filter put in and the 4 quarts replaced, requires disconnecting the fluid cooler hose and
pumping a couple quarts at a time, then replacing them till the fluid comes out clean.
A standard transmission service just invloves dropping the pan and leaving
5 of the 9 quarts of dirty fluid in the system.
If you read the thread I created and linked to in this thread, I believe I have the MB documentation describing both processes, but here on the forum the process has been slightly modified to accomodate us DIY'er.
Meaning, disconnecting at the rad vs. the bango bolts at the tranny.
Now if you have access to a lift the banjo bolts would make more sense, but they are very wierd connectors, you can't just put a tube on them.
You need a special connector I think to catch the fluid.
But same process applies, stopping and starting the engine, so that means
someone needs to be in the car while it's on the lift, OR putting the car up and down.
Read the whole thread and most of your questions will be answered.
Replace the connector while you are at it, with a new one with new O-rings too.
MB created the full flush doc as to be used when the tranny gets glycol contamination,
but uit has become obvious to most of us that a full flush is necessary, 4 out of 9 quarts and a new
filter doesn't do much when the fluid is cooked and oxidized.
You do really feel the difference.
I'm due again....
Woa, $5 shell ATF?
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; May 13, 2011 at 01:46 PM.




will keep looking