madlion88

the sway bar link is the same length on both side? cuz on my car the right side is 1'' longer i'm wondering if its normal

jkowtko

You might want to say what kind of car you have.

I have never heard of different length links ... on the C-series w203, the sway bar links are actually the same part # -- one part fits on either side.

If you replaced one side with an incorrect part you could be really tweaking your suspension ...

madlion88

C32, maybe the previous owner change it , could it explain why that its the third time I change the lower control arm because the ball joint wont last?

jkowtko

Looking back through your original posts --
* from the photos it looks like you have a Sport suspension (the sport logo on the front fender, and you say it's a C230)
* from the price ($23) you may have purchased the sway bar link for the non-sport suspension. They are different ... the Lemfoerder I see for the sport suspension is around $35.
* also looking at the photo of the Lemfoerder package, it looks like your part number may be A-203-320-28-89, which is for the non-sport suspension. You want A-203-320-29-89 ('29' instead of '28').

Make sure you have the right sway bars, and make sure it's the same one on both sides.

Regarding control arm ball joints, to my knowledge they don't take a lot of strain from normal suspension load -- however having a twisted sway bar could add additional stress on the joints. Someone else may know more about what reduces ball joint lifetime (alignment issues?)

madlion88

thanks for the info

c230_E350_Kid

Hey, Im sorry but I did not understand what exact tools would be needed to change the sway bar links.

Thanks
Rahul

jkowtko

* something to jack the front of the car up on both sides so you can take the wheels off and have no torsional load on the sway bar. (suggest a floor jack and two jack stands)

* wrench for the nuts

* small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts.

Sorry I don't recall the exact size of the nuts or bolt ends ... I did this several weeks ago but also changed the struts and control arms, as well as some work on my son's Honda Accord, so my mind is swimming in metric sizes from 8 to 21mm. (Just changed the oil today -- I can tell you that the oil drain bolt on the M271 engine takes a 13mm wrench.)

You could probably get by with two crescent wrenches for this project.

neilpilot

I understand the sway bar links should be torqued to 44 ft-lb (60 nM). Here's what maybe a silly question. Since you need to hold the bolt end to prevent rotating the bolt and damaging the joint/boot, how do you use a standard torque wrench since you can't also hold the bolt steady? Do you tighten first and then assume that, if you use a deep socket and torque wrench, the assembly is sufficiently tight to prevent rotation? Or do you simply tighten and forget the torque?

phister

you can use a hand wrench to hold the nut then buy some hex sockets and attach it to the torque wrench and tighten it down.

neilpilot

Phister says "you can use a hand wrench to hold the nut then buy some hex sockets and attach it to the torque wrench and tighten it down. ".

Sorry but I'm not sure I understand your reply.

I have a torque wrench and hex sockets. If I use them to tighten the nut, the socket will cover the bolt stem that you would normally hold steady with a second socket or wrench to prevent stem rotation from damaging the joint's rubber cover. Are you saying just go ahead and use the socket on the nut and don't worry about immobilizing the stem? Or are you suggesting I hold the nut with the hand wrench and, in some way, use the torque wrench/socket on the stem?

Unless I understand how this can be torqued, I will likely simply tighten the nut without the torque wrench while holding the stem steady.

jkowtko

Two ways to do this:

1) hand-tighten in increments, "testing" the torque with the torque wrench using incrementally increasing torque settings (e.g. 10, 20, 30, 44 ft-lbs). Increase the torque setting until you can feel the nut slipping, then hand tighten a bit more. you'll quickly get to the point where you can apply 44 ft-lbs with the torque wrench with no nut slippage.

2) buy a crow's foot wrench set which allow you to sidestep the bolt shaft. Example: http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=C...socket&cad=rja

I prefer method 1 ... it's a bit tricky to get the right angle on the crows foot attachment to avoid modifying the effective torque you are applying.

phister

Sorry what i meant to say is that inside the stem is an Allen shaped hole so use a hand wrench to hold the nut then attach an Allen socket to the torque wrench and tighten it down.

jkowtko

I personally would not advocate twisting the bolt shaft. You would be relying on the torsional strength of the bolt to move its shank which is pushing against the backside of the sway bar, at a resistance of up to 44 ft-lbs ... sounds like potential for snapping a bolt.

phister

You use the hand wrench to turn the nut and use the allen socket and torque wrench to hold the shaft in place, once it gets to the recommended torque it'll click.

saespyder

Very nice DIY. Control arm is the same thing as a torque arm, correct? I think I've seen them referred to differently here and there.

I'll be starting this project once it gets warm out. Indy shop quoted me $1200 for ONE SIDE.

Allrevup

Front Suspension
The Black lower contol arm AKA- Camber Arm-Cross Strut
The Aluminium upper control arm AKA- Caster Arm-Torque Strut
The Sway Bar AKA- Stabalizer Bar-Anti Roll Bar-Torque Bar
The Sway Bar End Links AKA-Torque or Sway Bar End Links

endeavor4793

You are right. You raised only one side. You may be able to release some of the pressure by blocking that one wheel and lowering that side of the car in effect collapsing the strut and aligning the link with the strut and stabilizer.

I did the same thing this morning and the procedure I described is how I worked around the problem. I did not have another jack to lift the other side of the vehicle.

firstdown80

I'm going to replace the sway bar as well. When I ordered the sway bar, I was told there is only 1 required. I don't need 2 pieces right?

jkowtko

Correct.

There is one sway bar for the front of the car, and one for the rear.

firstdown80

My mistake, I should've said "Sway Bar Links/Stabilizer Bar Links", instead of "Sway Bar" only.

I found out that I need 2 Torsion Bar Linkage (this is what Mercedes calls it).

Anyway, the part number for the sports suspension is A2033202989, I got it installed, I was so happy, went for a test drive, and all of a sudden I hear this knocking sound from the driver's side.

Took it to a mechanic, and they told me it's the Strut (Spring Strut Mounting) is gone. Man this is expensive!

For those interested the part numbers I got from EP-net Online for my car, it's advisable to change both sides:
Dust Cap A2033230038 - Qty 2
Mounting Parts Kit A2033200056 - Qty 2 (this contains the bolts and screws)
Rubber Bumper Stop Buffer A2033200844 - Qty 2
Nut to Bearing A0009900365 - Qty 2
Rubber Bumper Right/Left Front Suspension Strut A2033220444 - Qty 1 (Note left & right have the same part number)
Stop Hydropneumatic Spring Leg A2033230232 - Qty 2
Bearing Hydropneumatic Spring Leg A2033200273 - Qty 2
Shock Absorber Parts Kit A2033207530 - Qty 2 (This is the most expensive piece)

Will be looking to get the parts.

jkowtko

Okay, if you have to replace the top strut mounts you really should do both sides at the same time, and you should consider replacing the struts AND the upper control arms because the disassembly overlaps strut mount replacement.

firstdown80

Thanks.

I'm trying to order the parts, and I'm kind of confused especially with references to Sport Suspension (code 486) and Sports Package (code 949).

Some would say, only for code 486, while another would say for code 486 & 949.

The price is a big difference. Bilstein & Monroe makes it for only code 486 while Sachs makes a part just for code 486 & 949.

Don't know if I could order just the code 846, cos the price is like almost $100 difference.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200..._assembly.html


Confused.

jkowtko

Sachs are the stock strut, and are close to $200 each. They include the mounting kit (bolts, nuts and washers) which normally costs about $25.

Bilstein TC (Touring), which is their least expensive line, costs around $100 each. Add $25 for the mounting kit.

I put the Bilstein TC on my car -- they are noticably firmer and sportier than the Sachs, but they are not "hard". The only way I can describe it -- it's like putting a much stiffer rubber band on the suspension.

Bilstein also makes an HD strut for about $200. Not sure if this is stiffer than the TC ... I wouldn't want any stiffer than the TC or I fear it would turn the car into a bucket of rattles.

One of the main differences between the sport and non-sport struts is the shaft extension. Since the sport suspension rides 3/4" (20mm?) lower than the non-sport, the sport shocks are 3/4" shorter at full extension. I don't know if the sport struts are shorter at minimum extension ... I thought they were about the same. but I don't think I would ever get the suspension down that far anyway.

The $100 Bilstein TCs are non-sport only. I put these on my car. I have not noticed any issue with the fact that I have longer-extending struts on my car, i.e. I don't ever jump the car. When you jack up the car the suspension will fall 3/4" lower than if it had sport shocks on it, which equates to about 3 degrees more twist in the control arm bushings ... I was leary about this at first but after lifting the car a few times I don't think it will cause any harm.

The $100 Bilstein TCs also have an M10 hole for mounting the sway bar link, whereas the sport struts have an M12 hole. This was a simple matter of drilling out the hole a bit to allow the M12 bolt to fit through. No issues here.

So, now you are aware of the differences when installing a non-sport strut on a sport suspension. I am happy with my choice -- I don't think I would go back to the Sachs -- I like the ride of the Bilstein TC.

Fyi, the rear shocks seem to have no difference in extension. My Bilstein TC rears looked about the same length as the Sachs rears I replaced, and they popped right in without an issue. If you replace the front Sachs with Bilstein TCs, you should replace the rears or your suspension will be unevenly damped and you will notice the difference.

Hope this helps. There's quite a few details to note here -- let me know if you need clarification on anything.

firstdown80

Wow! That's an answer I was looking for. I think I'll still go for sports suspension, but will go with the Monroe instead. Not sure if I need the mounting kit A2033200156.

jkowtko

Are you sure you want to buy Monroe struts for a Mercedes Benz?

I have never heard of anyone buying Monroe ... I suggest you find at least one referral before you do that. I did a quick search around and only found one other mbworld thread questioning the same thing.