VVF

Sounds like a good strategy Not if one is having a shop doing the install though

BTW, John, did you check the steering shaft u-joint for play - that might be the source of clunks when rocking the steering wheel between 11-1 o'clock.

I was rotating the front wheels side-to side, and thought I would do the 3-9 and 12-6 manhandling checks, and when I rock the tire 3-9 I hear a thump type of clunk somewhere in the brake booster area... Sounds like the steering u-joint to me...

jkowtko

And to follow up on that thought, seriously, spend the 50 bucks extra and get the pair of Lemfoerders. This is a Mercedes -- you should treat it like one You're going to replace these once every several years at the most. Unless you want to experiment with the cheap brands and update the forums with your findings, you'll probably save yourself a lot of hassle in the long run by getting quality parts.

Hi VVF, turns out most of the issue was the steering rack bushings. When I replaced them the problem virtually went away. The old bushings were not visibly worn -- they looked new -- except that they weren't "puffy" like the new ones ... so the rubber had hardened into shape over time allowing them to give a little when pushed on. As a result the steering rack would creep back and forth maybe up to 1mm when I turned the wheel. That was enough to produce a sloppy feel to the steering. The new bushings hold the rack a lot firmer and that slop is gone.

There is still the slightest clunk, I don't think it's in the U-joint, I actually think it's a bit of play in the pinion gear area. But according to the tech service manual some play in the rack is normal. So for now I'm calling it done.

The steering still feels a bit less stiff than it was when the car was new, but at this point I attribute it to the age of the rack, and the only thing that might restore it is just getting a new rack. But not really needed now.

bryananthony

I just installed a new sway bar link on the drivers side and it runs smooth and great for a few miles, then starts making a random clank. I tighten it, and it repeats the same thing. Does anyone know if you have to use locking gel, or something on the bottom end sway bar link end? Just a heads up, I replaced all struts and springs and it runs beautifuly, except for the new sway bar end link getting lose after a few miles.

This is the link I bought for my 2006 C280 Luxury and it matched up perfectly.

http://www.autozone.com/1/products/5...t-1880490.html

VVF

What torque did you tighten them to? Are you sure it's the link that is clunking?
A way to check that is to remove the links and drive around (with lots of body roll).

torquewrench

Probably a noob question, but I'll ask it anyway

Will replacing the stabilizer link/sway bars knock the wheel alignment out? I doubt it, but just in case....

jkowtko

Sway bar parts replacement should not affect wheel alignment.

PelicanParts.com

Correct, no alignment is required. I posted a few alternative DIY's below for you as an additional resource when tackling this job.

DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Bar_Links.htm
Parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg6.htm#item23

If you have any questions please let me know.

torquewrench

sorry - this is what happens when I don't have enough coffee running through my system. Missed the word "remove" in the DIY. I assume since they are being replaced anyway, it doesn't really matter if you turn the inner bolt?

******************

Thanks for the links.

Having had a quick squizz at the DIY, I am now slightly confused.

Up in reply #32, jkowtko said:
"small socket or wrench to hold the bolts from turning (the end of each bolt is shaped like a hex) while you loosen or tighten the nuts."

however, the DIY states:
"You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm."

I suppose I have a 50-50 chance of guessing the right answer, but which one should I tighten? The nuts or the smaller inner bolts?

Thanks in advance.

PelicanParts.com

Sorry, must have missed this!

Usually, these are done by breaking the large nut loose. Once loose, counter-hold the nut while turning the HEX boss on the end of the link stud.

jkowtko

When removing the old links it surely doesn't matter since you are discarding the parts.

For tightening it probably doesn't matter either, but ...

When you normally tighten a bolt/nut, sometimes you tighten by turning the bolt, sometimes by turning the nut. But when you turn the bolt you are usually turning it at the head of the bolt which is where the rotational friction is. However when dealing with sway bar links, the "head" of the bolt is the ball joint of the link, and the only place you can turn the bolt is from the opposite end of the shaft, away from the rotational friction area. So when you turn the bolt it will apply a twisting force to the bolt shaft. I personally don't like the idea of doing that ... I would rather hold the bot still and turn the nut ... work against the rotational friction on the nut side. I use a crow's foot and torque wrench on the nut as I hold the bolt still ... or just tighten and test repeatedly until the bolt holds snug at the required torque reading.