SlashW203

jkowtko, I think the Bilstein TC struts/shocks also fit Sport models, correct me if I'm wrong:

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=2007

Suspension refresh is one of the things on my to-do list, learning a lot from this thread.

firstdown80

I did find a set of SACHs on Rockauto, but again there are 2 different sets and both are for sport suspensions and price is about $50 difference.

jkowtko

These I think are Heavy Duty (HD), not Touring (TC).

From what I understand Bilstein makes three grades of shock/strut:
* TC (Touring Class) ... arguably the softest, twin tube design, less expensive
* HD (Heavy Duty) ... not sure if stiffer than TC, but mono tube design, more expensive
* Sport ... hardest ride

The above are layman's terms. The technical model numbers are B4, B6, etc. B4 is the Touring Class. I believe B6 is the Heavy Duty and B8 the Sport.

The TC supposedly do not come in the shorter extension length. I did find a part number on the Bilstein web site but it was not orderable anywhere. Unfortunately this is one of those items where there seems to be a lot of different part numbers floating around, and hard to identify which is which. The confusion is increased by the fact that some W203s have the sport suspension and some do not, and sometimes it's by model number and sometimes by a suspension upgrade option within a model number.

jkowtko

It's hard to tell ... there are so many different part numbers.

My car, 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, takes the 203-320-75-30 part number.

I see AMG cars with 83-30, and non-sport with 70-30.

Rockauto also shows the 66-30, which looks like sport. Maybe it's the earlier years where they had a smaller sway bar and only M10 end links, so smaller end link mounting hole?

Otherwise I don't know what all of the differences are ... maybe replacement/upgraded parts?

In any case, I would guess that 75-30 is the correct OEM part number for these cars ...

VVF

If you scroll down, there is a link to TC as well: http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/p...-and-CLK-Class

It says it's compatible with everything, but fails to mention that you may have to drill it to fit M12

jkowtko

I think that's the non-sport one, i.e. longer shaft extension, and M10 hole. That is the one that I bought. Here is an older thread where I sorted through all of this, mentioning part numbers:

https://mbworld.org/forums/5343076-post4.html

I don't know why they post "for sport", "for non-sport", etc. Maybe they are differentiating from the 4Matic suspensions, which is quite different in the front? In any case, through the URL above I state the two part numbers, that fact that you cannot find the sport one anywhere. and I bought the non-sport for my car.

If it turns out you can find the sport B4, then by all means get it. The only difference between these two should be the shaft length and the end link hole size -- otherwise they should be identical.

SlashW203

Ok, I did a little research on Bilstein's web site just for kicks & came up with the following for my car:

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm.../drivetype=RWD

If I were to go with B4 TC components, I would use:

Twintube Strut Assembly

Part Number: 22-218537

Series: B4
Position: Front
Descriptor: Replaces O.E. Number 203 320 75 30 Only
Descriptor: Sport Suspension

36mm Monotube Shock Absorber

Part Number: 24-114714

Series: B4
Position: Rear

Obviously I need to check my front struts to see if it matches the part# Bilstein states above.

jkowtko

See if you can find 22-218537 for sale anywhere ... the only place I was able to pull up had a different looking part in the photo and cost $285 each ... !

24-114714 may have been what I got for the rear ... eschocks has a cheaper price now ... I think I paid $88 each.

SlashW203

Cheapest I found was this place in the U.K., waiting for Bilstein USA to return my call about availability, http://bilstein.suspensiondirect.co....1_443_9811.jsp

jkowtko

Okay, so you know that photo looks nothing like our front struts ... I still think it's a non-distributed product. If it were available I would think you should be able to find it at more or more of: PartsGeek, RockAuto, RMEuropean, FCPEuro.

I'm also very curious to hear what Bilstein USA says ...

PelicanParts.com

Have you checked Pelican Parts?

whunter@pelicanparts.com


.

SlashW203

I did & you don't carry the correct part, at least according to this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0

Is part# 22-218537 something you can special-order? Thanks for your help!

VVF

Hey guys,
in the PDF from Wiki, the torque setting for end link nuts is only given for M10 bolts as 60nm = 44 ft-lb, and no setting for M12 bolts.
But for W209 with M12 bolts the setting is 100nm = 74 ft-lb.
I am at a loss as to which one is correct...

https://mbworld.org/wiki/images/5/51...front_axle.pdf

jkowtko

I have the M12 and I torqued mine to 44 ft-lbs ... no problems whatsoever so I think you'll be safe with 44.

VVF

Ok, thanks. I believe it's been a couple months since you installed yours, so that should rule out them un-tightening.

I torqued them to about 50 +-, but I think that should be fine.
(Tightened, then confirmed with a torque wrench)

jkowtko

I replaced the links a year ago when I did the struts. Just replaced the sway bar only in the fall. Both times I torqued to 44 ... so it's gotta be okay. If the bolts will go higher all the better. Worst case you snap one off, it's only $30 for another link

VVF

Aha, got you.

That would be unfortunate lol $40...
I'm saving money for the struts now

jkowtko

It's the small clunk in the steering rack that's driving me nuts now ... I get hyper-sensitive doing this DIY work because I'm now constantly paranoid that I didn't put something back together correctly or tighten enough. (But so far all I've found is poor workmanship from the mechanics I used in the past). I hope it's not the worm gear. As soon as the weather warms up I think I'm going to replace the rack bushings and have a good look at the tie rod ends. All rubber is suspect to me now

VVF

It's actually amazing how they treat cars considering the cool rates they are charging for labor... And for me, it's like 3 hours round-trip to some decent shops. So if I can DIY something is 3-4 hours, it's an automatic win

Is that clunk you feel through the steering wheel when rapidly turning it side-to-side within several degrees? It seems that my car's rubber is a more tired version of yours, so whatever helps you get rid of clunks/knocks/creeks will definitely help me
But so far my main concern is the knock on the left side..

jkowtko

Yes the steering noise is from quick rocking left/right maybe 10-15 degrees, not enought to turn the wheels but enough to put some load on the rack and tie rods. I did this with the wheels on the ground and steering wheel unlocked. Engine running or not (easier if not running).

Different test with wheels off the ground, someone holding the steering wheel absolutely still, rocking each front wheel to try to turn it left and right. In this case it felt like I could reproduce the sound when rocking the passenger wheel but not the drivers side wheel.

Then again with load on the suspension, I had my son rock the steering wheel again while I felt the rack and tie rods. This test contradicted the last test because the cluck felt loudest on the drivers side around the worm gear shaft to the tie rod end. This is where I need to pop the boot off the rack to see if it's the inner tie rod. However I don't notice any play at all in the steering movement, even when hearing the sound.

There's only so many parts in there so at some point I should find it. Of course, as the official service manual says, a clunk is normal in these systems ...

VVF

Ok, it seems that the proper torque for M12 end links is 60 ft-lb.
See bottom of Page 2 in this doc: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...sion-strut.pdf

jkowtko

Okay I see it -- thanks for digging this up ... when I change the oil next I'll re-torque those bolts. I don't think that's my problem though :|

This instruction sheet is hard to read though ... you'd think they've learned now to number parts on a diagram, and possibly put the torque settings on the diagram as well ...

VVF

Maybe that's because one diagram applies to several chassis types and there are several different torque settings and part#'s - they did not want to clutter the pictures. One the other hand, why not make several pictures, big deal...

markinnaples

Anyone try the Karlyn brand sway bar links for $6.75 each? The Lemforder ones are $44.50, and that price difference is unbelievable.

jkowtko

You think German car parts are expensive ... the Toyota brand links for our Corolla/Matrix are $80 each! And that's about the cheapest you can get it anywhere online.

Both Partsgeek and RockAuto are around $36-38 for the Lemfoerder. You might also consider Moog for closer to 20.

If you are okay with replacing your links every year or sooner, then try out the cheap ones and let us know what happens. I'd say buy two pairs -- still comes to less than half the price of Lemfoerder. Then as soon as they start to loosen up you should hear the clatter and know it's time to swap them out. And now you know roughly how long they will last, and you can schedule for the next replacement.