C220 RADIATOR COOLING FAN PROBLEM
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
C220 RADIATOR COOLING FAN PROBLEM
HI ALL
I HAVE A C220 CDI COUPE 2001 MODEL
THE COOLING FAN DOESNT COME ON AND I HAVE TAKEN OUT THE WHOLE UNIT FROM THE CAR LEAVING THE RADIATOR IN. I TRIED TO TEST IT MANUALLY BY CONNECTING THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE FROM BATTERY DIRECTLY TO THE FANS RELAY BUT THE FAN IS NOT KICKING IN.. THERE ARE 4 BITS I CAN CONNECT WIRES TO SO AM NOT SURE IF AM DOING IT WRONG OR THE FAN IS REALLY BUGGERED...
THERE IS RED (+), BROWN (-) AND TWO OTHER WIRES... I CONNECTED POSSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRES BUT THE FAN STILL NOT KICKING IN, SHOULD I BE CONNECTING ANYTING ELSE ???
HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED BEFORE I GO AND BUY A NEW UNIT AND WASTE MY MONEY
I HAVE A C220 CDI COUPE 2001 MODEL
THE COOLING FAN DOESNT COME ON AND I HAVE TAKEN OUT THE WHOLE UNIT FROM THE CAR LEAVING THE RADIATOR IN. I TRIED TO TEST IT MANUALLY BY CONNECTING THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE FROM BATTERY DIRECTLY TO THE FANS RELAY BUT THE FAN IS NOT KICKING IN.. THERE ARE 4 BITS I CAN CONNECT WIRES TO SO AM NOT SURE IF AM DOING IT WRONG OR THE FAN IS REALLY BUGGERED...
THERE IS RED (+), BROWN (-) AND TWO OTHER WIRES... I CONNECTED POSSITIVE AND NEGATIVE WIRES BUT THE FAN STILL NOT KICKING IN, SHOULD I BE CONNECTING ANYTING ELSE ???
HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED BEFORE I GO AND BUY A NEW UNIT AND WASTE MY MONEY
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Just a thought... Connect the red (Pos )& green (Earth) to the battery & connect the other two together & see what happens. The other two may have to be closed circuit as they may be some control feature.ie fan speed.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
Hey I tried that but nothing happened so I decided to carry on dismantling the fan and see what I can find, as soon as i touched the fan I saw a leaking fluid in the black/silver control unit where the fan plugs in. Carried on opening it and the half of the circuit had melted so I guess thats where my problem was as there is power up to the connection then its offline. so the circuit was incomplete..
If anyone has any more details on these problems that would be great help
If anyone has any more details on these problems that would be great help
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 904
Likes: 22
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada, eh!
2003 C230 Sports Coupe, Paprika Metallic Red, Auto, Pano, Leather
Are you saying the attached control module for your front radiator cooling fan melted? How badly? A photo would be nice. What caused it to melt? Was there an electrical short?
Photo of that black-silver control unit you took apart please. What was the leaking fluid? Water??? Or was it a dark coloured oil with a reddish tint,.... there's a transmission cooling unit nearby which would contain fluid. The control module for the front radiator cooling fan should not contain any fluids.
The attached control module and front radiator cooling fan are only sold as a single unit from Mercedes-Benz Stealership,..... about $500 just for the part. If it needs to be replaced a pre-owned unit via a wreckers yard (as per Carsy's suggestion) would be the most economical way to go and they might be willing to just sell the control module without the front radiator cooling fan.
BTW, if the control module isn't getting any signal from the ECU, by default it would cause the front radiator cooling fan to spin in high mode like a turbine engine.
Photo of that black-silver control unit you took apart please. What was the leaking fluid? Water??? Or was it a dark coloured oil with a reddish tint,.... there's a transmission cooling unit nearby which would contain fluid. The control module for the front radiator cooling fan should not contain any fluids.
The attached control module and front radiator cooling fan are only sold as a single unit from Mercedes-Benz Stealership,..... about $500 just for the part. If it needs to be replaced a pre-owned unit via a wreckers yard (as per Carsy's suggestion) would be the most economical way to go and they might be willing to just sell the control module without the front radiator cooling fan.
BTW, if the control module isn't getting any signal from the ECU, by default it would cause the front radiator cooling fan to spin in high mode like a turbine engine.
Last edited by SunnyRayToronto; Jun 5, 2012 at 11:40 PM.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
Yeah the module was completed melted all the parts seems like they exploded.
I have now replaced the module but am still getting the cooland visit workshop sign.
Can someone help
I have 4 wires and usually from my knowledge from checking on net:
1. Thick Red (Positive) always on which is fine i have 12-14 volts in it
2. Thick Brown (Ground) Seems fine as I put volt meter on it with positive it reads fine
3. green/blue stripe (remote wire) I have 3-4 volt running through it with ignition on constantly.
4. white/black stripe (ignition wire) has no power ignition on..
Either my ignition wire is plugged in the wrong way but I am not sure or it is broken somewhere down the line or in my model the green/blue is ignition and black/white is remote.. does anyone one know???
does anyone have a diagram.. this is doing my brain in at the mo
I have now replaced the module but am still getting the cooland visit workshop sign.
Can someone help
I have 4 wires and usually from my knowledge from checking on net:
1. Thick Red (Positive) always on which is fine i have 12-14 volts in it
2. Thick Brown (Ground) Seems fine as I put volt meter on it with positive it reads fine
3. green/blue stripe (remote wire) I have 3-4 volt running through it with ignition on constantly.
4. white/black stripe (ignition wire) has no power ignition on..
Either my ignition wire is plugged in the wrong way but I am not sure or it is broken somewhere down the line or in my model the green/blue is ignition and black/white is remote.. does anyone one know???
does anyone have a diagram.. this is doing my brain in at the mo
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Yeah the module was completed melted all the parts seems like they exploded.
I have now replaced the module but am still getting the cooland visit workshop sign.
Can someone help
I have 4 wires and usually from my knowledge from checking on net:
1. Thick Red (Positive) always on which is fine i have 12-14 volts in it
2. Thick Brown (Ground) Seems fine as I put volt meter on it with positive it reads fine
3. green/blue stripe (remote wire) I have 3-4 volt running through it with ignition on constantly.
4. white/black stripe (ignition wire) has no power ignition on..
Either my ignition wire is plugged in the wrong way but I am not sure or it is broken somewhere down the line or in my model the green/blue is ignition and black/white is remote.. does anyone one know???
does anyone have a diagram.. this is doing my brain in at the mo
I have now replaced the module but am still getting the cooland visit workshop sign.
Can someone help
I have 4 wires and usually from my knowledge from checking on net:
1. Thick Red (Positive) always on which is fine i have 12-14 volts in it
2. Thick Brown (Ground) Seems fine as I put volt meter on it with positive it reads fine
3. green/blue stripe (remote wire) I have 3-4 volt running through it with ignition on constantly.
4. white/black stripe (ignition wire) has no power ignition on..
Either my ignition wire is plugged in the wrong way but I am not sure or it is broken somewhere down the line or in my model the green/blue is ignition and black/white is remote.. does anyone one know???
does anyone have a diagram.. this is doing my brain in at the mo
Attached are Test Values of Fan & Clutch. You will see the inputs which may make it easier.
Also check the wire colours on your engine temp sensor .
The engine temp sensor & coolant level may also be bringing up fault.
Is the fan operating normally when the engine is hot? Is it keeping the engine temp at operating temp?
Have you used a code scanner to see which module is throwing the alarm?
Any help from anyone else ?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
Thank you for the data.. I have checked both coolant and washer bottle wires and sensors and they are both operational.
The Fan doesnt kick in at all and neither does the temp exceed 90.. Not sure whats going on..
I did get it put on computer but the garage man seems like he didnt know how to use it and so he couldnt understand the problem.. I read something like circuit in complete before he erased the codes to see if it works. therefore I am stuck
The Fan doesnt kick in at all and neither does the temp exceed 90.. Not sure whats going on..
I did get it put on computer but the garage man seems like he didnt know how to use it and so he couldnt understand the problem.. I read something like circuit in complete before he erased the codes to see if it works. therefore I am stuck
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
What he needs is a new fan & controller unit. It all comes as a single assembly. Remember these are not hard wired conventional cars with miles of wiring harness. The fan is controlled from the ECU over the CANbus via the front SAM (fuse 51 for power) to it's controller built into the fly lead. The ECU gets temperature info from the Temp sensor & data from the HVAC controller, TCU etc. etc. Much of the wiring is carrying multiple digital two way serial bus information.
I don't have the schematic or it would be a lot easier to explain.
The best way to check the entire fan control circuitry is to run a simulation with Star & it will tell you where the problem lies.
First you need a complete working fan assembly installed. Then if the fan does not work Star will tell you where the fault lies. - eg No CAN signal, CAN shorted to earth etc.
We know the controller is toast for reasons unknown so lets get fan & controller up to snuff first. That will likely fix the problem. If not then do a simulation with Star. The fan is totally variable speed dependent on cooling requirements by engine, HVAC condenser, transmission fluid temperature etc.
What you need to see what I'm talking about is a full W203 engine wiring schematic showing interface with CANbus C if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck!
I don't have the schematic or it would be a lot easier to explain.
The best way to check the entire fan control circuitry is to run a simulation with Star & it will tell you where the problem lies.
First you need a complete working fan assembly installed. Then if the fan does not work Star will tell you where the fault lies. - eg No CAN signal, CAN shorted to earth etc.
We know the controller is toast for reasons unknown so lets get fan & controller up to snuff first. That will likely fix the problem. If not then do a simulation with Star. The fan is totally variable speed dependent on cooling requirements by engine, HVAC condenser, transmission fluid temperature etc.
What you need to see what I'm talking about is a full W203 engine wiring schematic showing interface with CANbus C if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 8, 2012 at 09:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
Hi Glyn I already have a new complete unit however I am not willing to leave it connected as I dont want the new fan or module to melt again.
I need the wiring data such as what volts I should expect from each wire and clarity on which colour wires does what as at the moment the ignition(black/white wire) has no power which should usually have 12+v and remote wire(blue/green) does have 3-4 volt so its bit confusing. any help with this would be great.
I am planning to take apart the wiring tomorrow from the control module to ignition, going to follow it through and see if I can pin point exactly where the wire leads to and see if there are any breaks and test continuity from control module to where the wire ends as this will pin point if there is a breakage.. I ll keep you posted as I am sure someone else can use the data I gather in future.
I need the wiring data such as what volts I should expect from each wire and clarity on which colour wires does what as at the moment the ignition(black/white wire) has no power which should usually have 12+v and remote wire(blue/green) does have 3-4 volt so its bit confusing. any help with this would be great.
I am planning to take apart the wiring tomorrow from the control module to ignition, going to follow it through and see if I can pin point exactly where the wire leads to and see if there are any breaks and test continuity from control module to where the wire ends as this will pin point if there is a breakage.. I ll keep you posted as I am sure someone else can use the data I gather in future.
Last edited by Guddu05; Aug 10, 2012 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
PROBLEM SOLVED
Thanks all you guys..
I traced the wire(long process)... 4 wires, runs from fan goes behind front left wing battery side.. under the wing next to washer bottle.. splits upp
ignition wires runs through there to back of the battery then along under the wiper arms (this is where it was broken) then connects to the front sam modulee (fuse 51) 7.5a.. The fuse and ecu controls the power level so its either 6-12 v depending on how was it nees to run.
The original wires are so thin its like mb wants them to break.. I attached a heavy duty wire which can never break..
As soon you touch they connected *coolant visit workshop* went tata..
on this coupe i would say difficult job very tight space
I traced the wire(long process)... 4 wires, runs from fan goes behind front left wing battery side.. under the wing next to washer bottle.. splits upp
ignition wires runs through there to back of the battery then along under the wiper arms (this is where it was broken) then connects to the front sam modulee (fuse 51) 7.5a.. The fuse and ecu controls the power level so its either 6-12 v depending on how was it nees to run.
The original wires are so thin its like mb wants them to break.. I attached a heavy duty wire which can never break..
As soon you touch they connected *coolant visit workshop* went tata..
on this coupe i would say difficult job very tight space
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
C220 CDI SPORTS COUPE 2001
DON'T TRY THIS,
DONT TRY THIS, THE THING IS SO SENSITIVE YOU WILL MELT THE WHOLE POWER UNIT
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Sorry if I have made a mistake.
ie your info:-
1. Thick Red (Positive) always on which is fine i have 12-14 volts in it
2. Thick Brown (Ground) Seems fine as I put volt meter on it with positive it reads fine
3. green/blue stripe (remote wire) I have 3-4 volt running through it with ignition on constantly.
4. white/black stripe (ignition wire) has no power ignition on..
