The reason why I posted this is because the 2002 c230 has one of the last releases of the M111 (2.3L) engine instead of the m271 (1.8L) engine in the 2003 + models. If anyone has any additional information to add please do so. I'm also going to try and make this as easy as possible for nubs to understand as a newbie myself. I did this all with a $12.99 set of tools: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...ool-sets.html#
I'll be doing fuel filter next month and will post pictures.




OIL CHANGE


As you can see beneath the hood it's quite dusty (cleaned after I finished all work) but you can see where my hands touched that black plastic plate next to the dipstick. Just lift that up and you should get something like this.



Pull out the dip stick and set it aside for now. Get your MightyVac (I had a 7400) and pick the middle tube and start inserting it until it hits the bottom. Then start pumping and let it suck out all the oil. For a picture of what it looks like here it is on my c240 (I forgot to take a pic on the 230)


You'll known when it's done since the hose will be a clear brown and not solid black. Then dispose of the used oil appropriately. Now time to change the filter. Use a tool like this to put on top of the black cap of the oil filter. It costs about $20 and I was linked to one from here by other member "C230 Sport Coup" http://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Mercedes-...ae8707&vxp=mtr

Should twist right off with ease using that tool. It will be very dirty and look like this.



Now put on a new filter, if you use OEM like Mann it should be bright yellow when brand new. Don't forget to change the O-Ring. Screw it back on (tight but not too tight) and fill the engine with ~7 quarts of Mobile 1 0w-40 or whatever other approved oil. Now check your oil in your car electronically before you start the car.
That's it! You just saved at least $100 in labor

Service Counter Reset
You can find this out easy with the stickies on the forum, but just turn your key to position 2, navigate to the service overdue notice and press and hold the physical reset button for 3 seconds... It will ask if you want to reset, press and hold for another 3 seconds and it should reset.

SPARK PLUGS


After those screws are out the red plate should just lift right up.



Now just unscrew the 8 screws here. Believe I used a E8 socket. Then you should be able to just pull these up and out. Give them a bit of a tug if it's not easy.



Just need a decent amount of strength to get these loose. Once you get them loose and pull them out, they should look like this. Make sure to use a vacuum to clean any debris.



FOR THE LOVE OF HARD EARNED TAX DOLLARS DO NOT DROP ANYTHING IN THE EXPOSED ENGINE AFTER YOU REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS. Even the tiniest screw falling in will require so much work to retrieve that you'll feel like an idiot, or if you actually start the car with debris falling in there you'll cause hilarious amounts of damage.



comparison

Some people recommend grease and compounds for assisting in the removal and installing spark plugs, but enough research has led me to the conclusion that you will be just fine by using nothing but just wrenches and force. Less money too. Now just install the four plugs the same way you uninstalled them, just in reverse order. Congratulations! If you live in the Colorado area, then you just saved $380 in labor!


ENGINE AIR FILTER


Okay go in order here: Screw 1 is a tin clamp that is really easy to remove - just use a flat head. Screws 2-5 are obvious and easy to remove, Screws 6 & 7 are the same screws, just hard to reach, especially 7. Once removed then it lifts up easily and looks like this.



This should just pull right out. Throw the filter away, but before you install the new one make sure to vacuum out any debris hanging around. Once new filter is installed (no screws, just place it and in as it should just fit) then encase it back up the same way you removed it. DONE


I was going to post how to change the cabin air filter, but this is the easy underneath the battery cover change out that is all over the forums.

-Gel

 

Was this not useful to anyone?

 

That's a very good comprehensive writeup. Nicely done!

Happy now?

There is a recommended torque spec on the oil filter housing; I think it's 30 or 35 ft lb, if memory serves. But agree that tight but not too tight should be fine. Don't forget to run a finger with new oil over the O ring once it's on the housing.

 

Nice Write UP!

 

Haha. I guess I was asking for it...literally.

I just didn't know if something like this was already posted and people just glanced over it. I do know that very few people have the m111 engine and the vast majority have m271.

I'll be doing fuel filter change under the car later this month and will post it.

Also have a 2005 c240 that I will post jazz I do as well.

 

Nice writeup!

Thank you so much! (Really)

 

nice write up, one thing I would like to add, before your start sucking up the oil via the mightyvac you should run the engine and get the engine to normal working temp which is 80degc and then start the suction process. DO NOT TRY TO SUCK COLD OIL SINCE IT WILL BE TOO THICK TO SUCK IT OUT COMPLETELY might even jamp/chock up the mightyvac.....

javvy

 

Dear Mr. Gel, (or should call you intimacy? Or I-Gell? )

Well, next time someone asks, I'll point 'em here.
A couple of comments.
1. Pull the filter before you drain the oil, some will go back into the sump
when you pull the filter.
2. Use dieletric grease (a little dab 'll do ya) on the top of the spark plugs,
OR put it in the springy lookin' thing inside the coil pack. Any auto parts store will have it, and in fact Reily has these little packets for like a buck, just enough for a 4 banger spark plug change.
It prevents corrosion, which prevents excess resistance, which keeps the coil packs from failing, which they tend to do and it's no fun driving on 3 or less cylinders.
Keep an OBD reader and a spare coil pack in the glove as well as some tools.

As Jaavy states warm the oil, but IMHO not to 80C and then wait till it all flows back to the sump. When the car allows you to check the oil level , then you are OK to start. I like to wait till it cools down a little.
Don't feel like getting burned with 180F oil. And we are dealing with plastic here too, the pump etc.
(I use a drill powered pump)

Lastly put some clean (new) oil on the oring before you screw it in. When it stops turning, it's in all the way.

Most people shun Plat plugs for whatever reason.
I now run copper 2 steps cooler since I'm overdriven.
I'll be replacing them every other oil change or so.
I used to run Iridium IX NGK, but after 30K they started causing problems with the
coil packs. Turned out to be the plugs not the coil packs.

 

I just changed the oil in mine for the first time on Sunday. I chose to jack it up and drain.

The 13mm drain plug it located at towards the back of the engine facing the passenger side (don't forget to replace the crush washer) and the second plastic cover needs to be removed from under the engine (6 8mm bolts iirc)

The oil filter wrench that I used was type "B" (similar to what you have pictured) from Autozone that I had still when I had my PT Cruiser and fits perfect. Mine took 7.5 qts. before the dash display said the oil level was OK.

 

Hi All,

Thanks for the replies (you can call me Gel)

My car was heated up from driving to the parts store, but I did let it cool so that way I wasn't burning myself. My check on temperature, was if the red plate to the spark plugs burned me....it was too hot :P

I chose not to use dieletric grease as I figured it was not needed and I had heard so much fuss from many sources with with pros and cons, that I decided not to bother. Is what you mention a serious risk? Obviously having 3 cylinders firing instead of 4 means you lose 25% of power, but it also means that changing the plugs was moot if it wasn't done correctly.

Thanks,

Gel

 

The dielectric grease makes it easier to pull the coilpacks off the plugs and also prevents corrosion. On my Jetta that also had the same style of coil on plug coilpacks, every time I needed a new coilpack since they were constantly recalling them. All the new ones came with dielectric grease in them since.

 

Thanks a lot for the writeup!

I have the 200K with Sequentronic, so it pretty much looks the same, only I don't have the tube overlaying the engine air filter screws.

 

Its good stuff. If I may I'll add these thoughts.

High mileage cars have brittle coil pack connectors. Be super careful with removal and installation.

I think you have the torque a bit high for the plastic oil filter cap. I just hand tighten it and be done with it.

For those that don't have or want a Mighty Vac, I have done all my changes from below the car. I actually prefer it. Gives me a change to examine the cars from underneath.

Ed

 

How much oil do you need for a 2002 m111 engine? I see 6qt in the original pic but I see someone saying that they need 7.5. is there a difference when is sucked Vs. drained quarter-wise?

 

Manual says 7.5. My local dealership said 6 but I'm still hesitant on it.

Also what kind of spark plugs did you use?

Ed, do you raise the front end and put it on jack stands?

 

I raised mine with a floor jack. I put 6 quarts in mine and the dash said add 1.5qts. I didn't believe it at first so I checked again and it said add 2qts. I added 1.5 and it said ok.

 

I realize this thread is old but thought I would give it a shot. I have a 2002 C230 Kompressor 2.3L Coupe and looking to change the spark plugs. I have heard that certain types of spark plugs can actually create issues with the coil packs and also cause hesitation. Can anyone recommend a spark plug?

Thanks!

 

In the book it gives me NGK plugs with part number IFR6D10, but most people around here seem to prefer Bosch.

 

Thanks for the reply. Do you happen to have a part number for the Bosch plugs?

 

Bosch FR-7-KPP-33U+

 

Great, thank you!

 

Thanks a lot for this write up. Glad I found one for the m111 engine.

 

I have this same m111 engine model, just need help choose the best plug for fuel economy.