possible strut noise
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 2
From: chicago
2005 c230 kompressor 2003 s500 94 wrangler
possible strut noise
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...oise-help.html
it started at the beginning of the winter..it doesnt always happend
tie rod ends, all control arms, sway bar links have all been replaced.
Power steering fluid is at the correct level. i tested the steering rack and its functioning like new.
the creeking noise is coming from both front wheels when turning the steering wheel more than 1 full turn.
bounce test is on point...i've had 3 alignments after this noise arose. since i keep hitting my rear rims on ****. even if i tap a curb my alignment is gone.
And my mercedes guy said everything is tight. nothing wrong.
any help would be great
it started at the beginning of the winter..it doesnt always happend
tie rod ends, all control arms, sway bar links have all been replaced.
Power steering fluid is at the correct level. i tested the steering rack and its functioning like new.
the creeking noise is coming from both front wheels when turning the steering wheel more than 1 full turn.
bounce test is on point...i've had 3 alignments after this noise arose. since i keep hitting my rear rims on ****. even if i tap a curb my alignment is gone.
And my mercedes guy said everything is tight. nothing wrong.
any help would be great
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Can you pick where it is coming from underneath the car when jacked up ?
Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?
JC
Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?
JC
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Can you pick where it is coming from underneath the car when jacked up ?
Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?
JC
Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?
JC
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 2
From: chicago
2005 c230 kompressor 2003 s500 94 wrangler
carsey!!!!!! thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
lmao that second post got me motivated to look in the hood and have someone turn the wheel.
and what do u know that top strut thingy moved when turning the wheel.
now is this the strut mount or bearing?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
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From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
It could just be the top of the mount rubbing inside the body socket. It has to change angles just a bit when you turn the wheel. When I replaced my struts and mounts I forgot to grease up the new ones ... as a result they creak a bit when I make sharper turns and it's cold outside.
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Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 2
From: chicago
2005 c230 kompressor 2003 s500 94 wrangler
It could just be the top of the mount rubbing inside the body socket. It has to change angles just a bit when you turn the wheel. When I replaced my struts and mounts I forgot to grease up the new ones ... as a result they creak a bit when I make sharper turns and it's cold outside.
did u torque everything down to spec?
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Yes, my strut shaft nuts are pretty tight ... in fact it was extremely hard to press the bushing onto the strut shaft. Corteco bushings and Bilstein B4 struts make a very tight fit. I had to use the main cap nut to pull the shaft through the bushing, a bit at a time while I moved the lock ring down the shaft.
If you don't have your top nuts torqued, you could get some rattle. That happened on our Toyota minivan ... the auto mechanic did that one and didn't torque the top nuts correctly. As a result the front suspension made an awful racket over every sharp bump. Fortunately you can tighten this nut while the strut is on the car. However, make sure the lock ring underneath is seated down further -- or else you will be tightening the top nut against the lock ring and not against the shaft seating in the bushing.
Also, jack up the car a bit and take a look at the top of the rubber mount through the engine compartment. You can see a little bit of it by looking carefully through the hole in the top of the body socket around the sides of the retaining plate. If there are cracks in the rubber when the suspension is unloaded, then the rubber mounts will need replacing.
Also when the suspension is unloaded, you could remove the top lock nut and retaining plate, and knock the strut down a bit (an inch?), enough to reach into the body socket from the top and smear some silicon grease in there. If the creaking is from rubber movement the grease should take care of it.
If you don't have your top nuts torqued, you could get some rattle. That happened on our Toyota minivan ... the auto mechanic did that one and didn't torque the top nuts correctly. As a result the front suspension made an awful racket over every sharp bump. Fortunately you can tighten this nut while the strut is on the car. However, make sure the lock ring underneath is seated down further -- or else you will be tightening the top nut against the lock ring and not against the shaft seating in the bushing.
Also, jack up the car a bit and take a look at the top of the rubber mount through the engine compartment. You can see a little bit of it by looking carefully through the hole in the top of the body socket around the sides of the retaining plate. If there are cracks in the rubber when the suspension is unloaded, then the rubber mounts will need replacing.
Also when the suspension is unloaded, you could remove the top lock nut and retaining plate, and knock the strut down a bit (an inch?), enough to reach into the body socket from the top and smear some silicon grease in there. If the creaking is from rubber movement the grease should take care of it.
Last edited by jkowtko; Mar 18, 2013 at 01:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 2
From: chicago
2005 c230 kompressor 2003 s500 94 wrangler
Yes, my strut shaft nuts are pretty tight ... in fact it was extremely hard to press the bushing onto the strut shaft. Corteco bushings and Bilstein B4 struts make a very tight fit. I had to use the main cap nut to pull the shaft trough the bushing, a bit at a time while I moved the lock ring down the shaft.
If you don't have your top nuts torqued, you could get some rattle. That happened on our Toyota minivan ... the auto mechanic did that one and didn't torque the top nuts correctly. As a result the front suspension made an awful racket over every sharp bump. Fortunately you can tighten this nut while the strut is on the car. However, make sure the lock ring underneath is seated down further -- or else you will be tightening the top nut against the lock ring and not against the shaft seating in the bushing.
Also, jack up the car a bit and take a look at the top of the rubber mount through the engine compartment. You can see a little bit of it by looking carefully through the hole in the top of the body socket around the sides of the retaining plate. If there are cracks in the rubber when the suspension is unloaded, then the rubber mounts will need replacing.
Also when the suspension is unloaded, you could remove the top lock nut and retaining plate, and knock the strut down a bit (a inch?), enough to reach into the body socket from the top and smear some silicon grease in there. If the creaking is from rubber movement the grease should take care of it.
If you don't have your top nuts torqued, you could get some rattle. That happened on our Toyota minivan ... the auto mechanic did that one and didn't torque the top nuts correctly. As a result the front suspension made an awful racket over every sharp bump. Fortunately you can tighten this nut while the strut is on the car. However, make sure the lock ring underneath is seated down further -- or else you will be tightening the top nut against the lock ring and not against the shaft seating in the bushing.
Also, jack up the car a bit and take a look at the top of the rubber mount through the engine compartment. You can see a little bit of it by looking carefully through the hole in the top of the body socket around the sides of the retaining plate. If there are cracks in the rubber when the suspension is unloaded, then the rubber mounts will need replacing.
Also when the suspension is unloaded, you could remove the top lock nut and retaining plate, and knock the strut down a bit (a inch?), enough to reach into the body socket from the top and smear some silicon grease in there. If the creaking is from rubber movement the grease should take care of it.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Seriously -- there's a hundred DIYs on the forums. You'll save a lot of money and end up with some great shop tools.Bring it to the shop to have specific items looked at -- they usually won't charge for an inspection of specific items.
Last edited by jkowtko; Mar 18, 2013 at 01:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 712
Likes: 2
From: chicago
2005 c230 kompressor 2003 s500 94 wrangler
Includes 10K super synthetic motor oil (factory approved) + fleece oil filter,
tire rotation, wiper blades, cabin air filters, engine air filters (every 40K miles),
full inspection, diagnostic test, chassis lubrication...
the reason why i want to go their is the full inspection and diagnostic test i have a p0600 that doesnt make sense. and to check the trans fluid. and dif oil
tire rotation, wiper blades, cabin air filters, engine air filters (every 40K miles),
full inspection, diagnostic test, chassis lubrication...
the reason why i want to go their is the full inspection and diagnostic test i have a p0600 that doesnt make sense. and to check the trans fluid. and dif oil
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Is this the C230 or S500? If the C230 then --
10K super synthetic motor oil (factory approved) + fleece oil filter
* $60 for oil and filter, ~ 1 hr of your time.
tire rotation
* can't do that on our cars with the staggered width rims
wiper blades
* $50 takes 2 minutes to replace
cabin air filters
* 1 cabin filter over battery in engine compartment, $12-25, takes 2 minutes to replace.
engine air filter
* $20-25 for a Mann, takes 5 minutes to replace (10 if you vacuum out the chamber)
chassis lubrication
* Is there anything on our car that you can lubricate? If you mean door hinges, etc, get some silicon grease from Home Depot, lithium grease from the auto store, and a pack of Q-tips, will take you 10 minutes
As far as diagnostic and specific code issues, sure. If the dealership won't diagnose without charging you $200 or you doing the service, and you can't take it to an indy, then I guess there goes your savings :|
10K super synthetic motor oil (factory approved) + fleece oil filter
* $60 for oil and filter, ~ 1 hr of your time.
tire rotation
* can't do that on our cars with the staggered width rims
wiper blades
* $50 takes 2 minutes to replace
cabin air filters
* 1 cabin filter over battery in engine compartment, $12-25, takes 2 minutes to replace.
engine air filter
* $20-25 for a Mann, takes 5 minutes to replace (10 if you vacuum out the chamber)
chassis lubrication
* Is there anything on our car that you can lubricate? If you mean door hinges, etc, get some silicon grease from Home Depot, lithium grease from the auto store, and a pack of Q-tips, will take you 10 minutes
As far as diagnostic and specific code issues, sure. If the dealership won't diagnose without charging you $200 or you doing the service, and you can't take it to an indy, then I guess there goes your savings :|
