sammydragon3

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...oise-help.html

it started at the beginning of the winter..it doesnt always happend

tie rod ends, all control arms, sway bar links have all been replaced.

Power steering fluid is at the correct level. i tested the steering rack and its functioning like new.

the creeking noise is coming from both front wheels when turning the steering wheel more than 1 full turn.

bounce test is on point...i've had 3 alignments after this noise arose. since i keep hitting my rear rims on ****. even if i tap a curb my alignment is gone.

And my mercedes guy said everything is tight. nothing wrong.

any help would be great

Carsy

Can you pick where it is coming from underneath the car when jacked up ?

Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?

JC

sammydragon3

it better not be my ****ing power steering pump

anyone know where to get a genuine pump for less than 350

Carsy

Can you pick where it is coming from underneath the car when jacked up ?

Also check the top of strut for noise with bonnet open when turning?

JC

Norwichdelta06

i know it happens when you turn the wheel.. but does it happen when the veh is moving? or at a stand still? And what about any noises when going over bumps?

sammydragon3

all of the above

carsey!!!!!! thank you!!!!!!!!!!!

lmao that second post got me motivated to look in the hood and have someone turn the wheel.

and what do u know that top strut thingy moved when turning the wheel.

now is this the strut mount or bearing?

Carsy

If you have verticle movement chances are that a rubber mount has failed. I don't have a drawing to check.

jkowtko

It could just be the top of the mount rubbing inside the body socket. It has to change angles just a bit when you turn the wheel. When I replaced my struts and mounts I forgot to grease up the new ones ... as a result they creak a bit when I make sharper turns and it's cold outside.

sammydragon3

mine has lots of visual play. sometimes it will rattle when going striaght... im just like "did a ****ing rock hit my car again".

did u torque everything down to spec?

jkowtko

Yes, my strut shaft nuts are pretty tight ... in fact it was extremely hard to press the bushing onto the strut shaft. Corteco bushings and Bilstein B4 struts make a very tight fit. I had to use the main cap nut to pull the shaft through the bushing, a bit at a time while I moved the lock ring down the shaft.

If you don't have your top nuts torqued, you could get some rattle. That happened on our Toyota minivan ... the auto mechanic did that one and didn't torque the top nuts correctly. As a result the front suspension made an awful racket over every sharp bump. Fortunately you can tighten this nut while the strut is on the car. However, make sure the lock ring underneath is seated down further -- or else you will be tightening the top nut against the lock ring and not against the shaft seating in the bushing.

Also, jack up the car a bit and take a look at the top of the rubber mount through the engine compartment. You can see a little bit of it by looking carefully through the hole in the top of the body socket around the sides of the retaining plate. If there are cracks in the rubber when the suspension is unloaded, then the rubber mounts will need replacing.

Also when the suspension is unloaded, you could remove the top lock nut and retaining plate, and knock the strut down a bit (an inch?), enough to reach into the body socket from the top and smear some silicon grease in there. If the creaking is from rubber movement the grease should take care of it.

sammydragon3

thank you for the comments everyone. im bringing her in for service b tomarrow and im making a list of everything and checking it twice

jkowtko

and ... don't pay for B service, do it yourself Seriously -- there's a hundred DIYs on the forums. You'll save a lot of money and end up with some great shop tools.

Bring it to the shop to have specific items looked at -- they usually won't charge for an inspection of specific items.

sammydragon3

Includes 10K super synthetic motor oil (factory approved) + fleece oil filter,
tire rotation, wiper blades, cabin air filters, engine air filters (every 40K miles),
full inspection, diagnostic test, chassis lubrication...

the reason why i want to go their is the full inspection and diagnostic test i have a p0600 that doesnt make sense. and to check the trans fluid. and dif oil

jkowtko

Is this the C230 or S500? If the C230 then --

10K super synthetic motor oil (factory approved) + fleece oil filter

* $60 for oil and filter, ~ 1 hr of your time.

tire rotation

* can't do that on our cars with the staggered width rims

wiper blades

* $50 takes 2 minutes to replace

cabin air filters

* 1 cabin filter over battery in engine compartment, $12-25, takes 2 minutes to replace.

engine air filter

* $20-25 for a Mann, takes 5 minutes to replace (10 if you vacuum out the chamber)

chassis lubrication

* Is there anything on our car that you can lubricate? If you mean door hinges, etc, get some silicon grease from Home Depot, lithium grease from the auto store, and a pack of Q-tips, will take you 10 minutes

As far as diagnostic and specific code issues, sure. If the dealership won't diagnose without charging you $200 or you doing the service, and you can't take it to an indy, then I guess there goes your savings :|