henrybayuzick

Awhile back when I got a C320, I had posted about having some shaking around 50-60. It's progressively gotten worse and needs to be taken care of.

I got a lot of responses of what it could be, but so far it seems like replacing the lower front control arm bushings first is the smartest choice.

To clarify: thrust bushing is the same as control arm bushing, correct?

I've got a few questions before I start this process.

0. Should I not screw with the bushings and just go ahead and replace the control arms from the start? Do these come with bushings already pressed in? Looks like the upper does but not the lower? Would this prevent me from replacing the bushings then finding the problem was actually the control arm and then end up buying the new control arm anyways. It's the difference between $30 and $80. Not too bad.

EDIT: Just got off the phone with RMeuropean. They said the control arms DO come with the bushings pressed in. I think this seems like a better approach. I can replace both the front left and right lower/castor control arms without having to worry about the $190 tool and I get new arms and bushings. Win, win. If I went this route, do I still need buy the fluted bolts for the bushings? How will alignment go afterwards? Would love to hear opinions on this choice.

1. Should I replace both front upper and lower inner bushings or just the lower inner bushing?
2. To replace the bushing, it requires a press to remove the bushing and reinsert the bushing, correct? Glyn M Ruck has mentioned it is an on-the-car job with the correct press. What is the correct press? Is there any easier/cheaper way?
3. Reading around, Glyn M Ruck has also mentioned replacing the standard bolts that come out with fluted bolts when refitting the bushings. This entire step has been hard for me to understand. I have yet to look under the car, but what Glyn says to stick the fluted bolts in the center hole, put the tires back on and drive to an alignment place where they will get the alignment right. Is there multiple holes/options? Any more clarification on this?

I've never done suspension work, but am eager to do this job myself. I just wish there was more documentation or a manual I could buy. I tried to do as much research before writing this post as possible.

Thanks in advance for the insight and knowledge!

Henry

samaritrey

How many miles are on the car? Personally I would replace the whole arm if the mileage is up there as the joint can also wear and cause issue (had that happen around 120,000 miles)
Replacing the arms is easy if you have a good set of tools and good jack with jack stands. You also have to drop the sway bar for one of the arms cant remember if it is upper or lower.

henrybayuzick

Approaching 140k. I thought the same. Do I need to touch the upper/caster arm? What about the tie rod?

Really need to get rid of the vibration.

Glyn M Ruck

The caster arm is the one that gives the most trouble due to bush failure. The camber arm bushes last a long time.

This is the correct DIY tool if you decide to go bushes only. At your mileage I would replace the entire arm.

Available from Koch Tools & Baum Tools

K-Mac

At K-MAC we manufacture for virtually evey Mercedes model 1968 - 2013 both the front thrust arm and control arm inner main bushes.

K-MAC patented design doubles the load bearing area and features precise for camber and caster adjustment for the first time. (See Below)

Click Here

Cheers
-C

jkowtko

I would also note -- if you replace the entire arm, in order to remove the ball joint on this control arm you have to unbolt the strut assembly from the steering knuckle, which means you are about two minutes away from removing the entire strut assembly from the car. This is a good time to consider replacing struts and top strut mounts.