Charge battery safely?
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W203 01' C200k
Charge battery safely?
I kind of did something stupid recently.. I listened to music on the radio for many hours while working on my car, and now it won't start. So I guess the electric starter doesn't have enough volts, so it won't even try to start.
I tested the battery with a multimeter, and it said 12volt, so it cannot be a lot drained, just a little bit under the limit for engine startup.
I'm a bit afraid of just simply just connecting the battery charger and start charging, because I see people writes about the electric system can be damaged when charging the battery.
Also it can be bad to remove the battery to charge it.. I don't understand why it has to be so hard to charge the battery safely on all newer cars/or cars with a lot of electronics..
Also I see there are two positive spots under the hood, one terminal at the battery pole, and another positive point close to the battery. Why is that? Just so it's easier to jumpstart, instead of removing the housing over the battery etc.?
And does it matter if I connect the battery charger pins to the battery poles, or should the negative be connected to the frame/engine instead of the negative battery pole?
I tested the battery with a multimeter, and it said 12volt, so it cannot be a lot drained, just a little bit under the limit for engine startup.
I'm a bit afraid of just simply just connecting the battery charger and start charging, because I see people writes about the electric system can be damaged when charging the battery.
Also it can be bad to remove the battery to charge it.. I don't understand why it has to be so hard to charge the battery safely on all newer cars/or cars with a lot of electronics..
Also I see there are two positive spots under the hood, one terminal at the battery pole, and another positive point close to the battery. Why is that? Just so it's easier to jumpstart, instead of removing the housing over the battery etc.?
And does it matter if I connect the battery charger pins to the battery poles, or should the negative be connected to the frame/engine instead of the negative battery pole?
Last edited by Steff95; 07-18-2013 at 09:11 PM.
#2
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I would just disconnect the negative battery terminal (or both terminals to be safe) and then connect the charger to the battery.
It's perfectly fine to disconnect the battery - otherwise how would you change, say, an alternator?
You will lose your "miles since last reset", and will have to resynch the windows and sunroof. Other than that everything will be fine.
Remove the negative battery terminal _first_.
It's perfectly fine to disconnect the battery - otherwise how would you change, say, an alternator?
You will lose your "miles since last reset", and will have to resynch the windows and sunroof. Other than that everything will be fine.
Remove the negative battery terminal _first_.
#4
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Moving a potential source of sparks away from the gases produced during charging maybe?
But the battery vent goes way down into fender area AFAIK.
If you disconnect the negative cable you will have to connect the charger to battery pole though.
I think the only consideration for disconnecting the battery before charging is the pulses from the charger possibly affecting the car's electronics.
So far I haven't jumped my car, but have jumped a Taurus and a Jetta, from my car. No issues.
But the battery vent goes way down into fender area AFAIK.
If you disconnect the negative cable you will have to connect the charger to battery pole though.
I think the only consideration for disconnecting the battery before charging is the pulses from the charger possibly affecting the car's electronics.
So far I haven't jumped my car, but have jumped a Taurus and a Jetta, from my car. No issues.
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W203 01' C200k
Omg... so now my sam module is probably fked up.
I get a "display faulty, visit workshop!" error when I start the car.
Gas gauge doesn't work, can't move my electric seats, can't release headrests in the backseats, indicators/blinkers and wipers doesn't work, cruisecontrol doesn't work, can't open trunk, fuel cap won't lock, ETC ETC.
And to lock/unlock the car I have to stand close and point the remote directly at the drivers door.
How the heck did this happen?? I disconnected the negative chassis lead from the battery pole. And when I charged I connected the positive lead first! I thought I did everything right??
Do I have to get a new sam module now or can it be reprogrammed? Cheap ****ty sam module.. I don't understand why this would damage it? I searched, and it seems to have something to do with the processor inside or something? But let's say I have to change the battery in a year or two, how the heck can you do that without destroying the sam module? :S
One thing's for sure. I'll never ever EVER use this car to jumpstart anything!
I get a "display faulty, visit workshop!" error when I start the car.
Gas gauge doesn't work, can't move my electric seats, can't release headrests in the backseats, indicators/blinkers and wipers doesn't work, cruisecontrol doesn't work, can't open trunk, fuel cap won't lock, ETC ETC.
And to lock/unlock the car I have to stand close and point the remote directly at the drivers door.
How the heck did this happen?? I disconnected the negative chassis lead from the battery pole. And when I charged I connected the positive lead first! I thought I did everything right??
Do I have to get a new sam module now or can it be reprogrammed? Cheap ****ty sam module.. I don't understand why this would damage it? I searched, and it seems to have something to do with the processor inside or something? But let's say I have to change the battery in a year or two, how the heck can you do that without destroying the sam module? :S
One thing's for sure. I'll never ever EVER use this car to jumpstart anything!
Last edited by Steff95; 07-20-2013 at 05:30 AM.
#6
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You may not have charged the battery sufficiently . See if things improve after a longish run. Strange things occur with a weak battery in the w 203..
Also check all the fuses.
Good luck.
Also check all the fuses.
Good luck.
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W203 01' C200k
But it seems weird though, since the electric seats and blinkers still worked before I charged the battery.
By fuses, do you mean the ones in the trunk with the rear sam module only then? Because I can't open the trunk, is there any way of opening it mechanically?
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#8
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wow... Hope things get better after further charging.
How old is your battery? 12 years? Then you are overdue for a new one anyway.
How old is your battery? 12 years? Then you are overdue for a new one anyway.
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Does anyone know why this happens and how?
And how do I get into my trunk? I don't think I got the keys when I bought the car.
Last edited by Steff95; 07-20-2013 at 08:32 PM.
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And I have no idea how to get into my trunk!! I have searched, and the only way seems to be with the metal key which I don't have? Because to fell down the seats you would have to be in the trunk also?
Jesus, what a mess.
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W203 01' C200k
Ok, then this is a good thread for you
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...repairing.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...repairing.html
Problem is that I can't access the sam module because the trunk is locked..
And it seems like the processor is hard to reach on the early models, unless I got a newer version of the module, but I doubt it.. If it was a newer one it shouldn't have blown.
#14
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Try this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...2003-c230.html
You may need a locksmith or a MB dealer to access the boot.
Try running the car at 15000- 2000 rpm for an hour whilst parked to see whether a battery top up fixes the problem.You can't drive with no signals.
Use the search feature on this forum. There has been a lot of problems with the early 203 SAMS hence a lot of information.
Good luck & let us know how you go.
You may need a locksmith or a MB dealer to access the boot.
Try running the car at 15000- 2000 rpm for an hour whilst parked to see whether a battery top up fixes the problem.You can't drive with no signals.
Use the search feature on this forum. There has been a lot of problems with the early 203 SAMS hence a lot of information.
Good luck & let us know how you go.
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Try this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...2003-c230.html
You may need a locksmith or a MB dealer to access the boot.
Try running the car at 15000- 2000 rpm for an hour whilst parked to see whether a battery top up fixes the problem.You can't drive with no signals.
Use the search feature on this forum. There has been a lot of problems with the early 203 SAMS hence a lot of information.
Good luck & let us know how you go.
You may need a locksmith or a MB dealer to access the boot.
Try running the car at 15000- 2000 rpm for an hour whilst parked to see whether a battery top up fixes the problem.You can't drive with no signals.
Use the search feature on this forum. There has been a lot of problems with the early 203 SAMS hence a lot of information.
Good luck & let us know how you go.
Sorry, I forgot to mention. Yesterday I started up the engine, and it was probably running for 30-60 minutes. The engine started up instantly without any struggle, so the battery seems fine too.
Yeah, I've been reading maany threads regarding this sam module, can't seem to find any further useful information. I guess I'll have to call my dealer tomorrow and ask how much this will cost, or look around if I find a sam module at a reasonable price. This is probably going to take a couple of weeks unless I find the part here in Norway..
I'll let you know how it goes for sure
Last edited by Steff95; 07-21-2013 at 05:03 PM.
#16
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-W203-C230-C240-C320-209-CLK350-REAR-SAM-MODULE-0035455201-/251252709722?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7fd4195a&vxp=mtr
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There is one "cheap" on ebay, approx $220 shipped:
Mercedes W203 C230 C240 C320 209 CLK350 Rear Sam Module 0035455201 | eBay
Mercedes W203 C230 C240 C320 209 CLK350 Rear Sam Module 0035455201 | eBay
The dealer here wanted 800$ for the part and another 300$ approximately to replace it.
But does a used part have to be reprogrammed/reflashed when put into another car?
Last edited by Steff95; 07-22-2013 at 08:08 AM.
#18
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This is what EPC shows for my 2004.5 C230:
(in order from oldest to newest)
A 209 545 01 01
A 209 545 07 01
A 203 545 32 01
A 203 545 38 01
A 203 545 34 01 (why is this less than previous?)
A 203 545 47 01
The name is "Electrical Center. Signal acquisition and actuation module with rear fuse and relay module SAM/SRB"
Seems like # 52 01 from ebay ~ # 07 01 from EPC catalog (from what a quick google search returned)
I think someone said in the DIY SAM repair thread that you will have to program the stuff through STAR.
In lieu of $300 dealer cost it might be better to buy a STAR clone for yourself... Just a thought.
(in order from oldest to newest)
A 209 545 01 01
A 209 545 07 01
A 203 545 32 01
A 203 545 38 01
A 203 545 34 01 (why is this less than previous?)
A 203 545 47 01
The name is "Electrical Center. Signal acquisition and actuation module with rear fuse and relay module SAM/SRB"
Seems like # 52 01 from ebay ~ # 07 01 from EPC catalog (from what a quick google search returned)
I think someone said in the DIY SAM repair thread that you will have to program the stuff through STAR.
In lieu of $300 dealer cost it might be better to buy a STAR clone for yourself... Just a thought.
Last edited by VVF; 07-22-2013 at 04:57 PM.
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This is what EPC shows for my 2004.5 C230:
(in order from oldest to newest)
A 209 545 01 01
A 209 545 07 01
A 203 545 32 01
A 203 545 38 01
A 203 545 34 01 (why is this less than previous?)
A 203 545 47 01
The name is "Electrical Center. Signal acquisition and actuation module with rear fuse and relay module SAM/SRB"
Seems like # 52 01 from ebay ~ # 07 01 from EPC catalog (from what a quick google search returned)
I think someone said in the DIY SAM repair thread that you will have to program the stuff through STAR.
In lieu of $300 dealer cost it might be better to buy a STAR clone for yourself... Just a thought.
(in order from oldest to newest)
A 209 545 01 01
A 209 545 07 01
A 203 545 32 01
A 203 545 38 01
A 203 545 34 01 (why is this less than previous?)
A 203 545 47 01
The name is "Electrical Center. Signal acquisition and actuation module with rear fuse and relay module SAM/SRB"
Seems like # 52 01 from ebay ~ # 07 01 from EPC catalog (from what a quick google search returned)
I think someone said in the DIY SAM repair thread that you will have to program the stuff through STAR.
In lieu of $300 dealer cost it might be better to buy a STAR clone for yourself... Just a thought.
But isn't the star program very expensive? And yes I knew it had to be programmed in this program, but does that mean the used parts also? I read something about reprogramming to get the alarm to work? But I'm not sure.. Say you take a sam unit from an identical car for example
#20
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STAR clones cost about 300-400. I forgot the link, but you can search here on the forum.
For the part#'s you can probably contact parts.com customer service and ask there. They should be able to tell you what is the updated SAM number.
I don't know about programming to be honest.
You can try to connect a SAM from an identical car. Best case it will work right then, worst case you will need to program it
For the part#'s you can probably contact parts.com customer service and ask there. They should be able to tell you what is the updated SAM number.
I don't know about programming to be honest.
You can try to connect a SAM from an identical car. Best case it will work right then, worst case you will need to program it
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STAR clones cost about 300-400. I forgot the link, but you can search here on the forum.
For the part#'s you can probably contact parts.com customer service and ask there. They should be able to tell you what is the updated SAM number.
I don't know about programming to be honest.
You can try to connect a SAM from an identical car. Best case it will work right then, worst case you will need to program it
For the part#'s you can probably contact parts.com customer service and ask there. They should be able to tell you what is the updated SAM number.
I don't know about programming to be honest.
You can try to connect a SAM from an identical car. Best case it will work right then, worst case you will need to program it
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Does anyone know how to replace this sam unit safely then? Do I need to have a small moped battery or something connected at all times when pulling out and installing the sam module? (when I pull it out of the other car, and install the module in my car)? What's the trick?
#23
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Just thoughts here, not an advise
If the other car's battery is disconnected - I would just pull the SAM (remember it craps if you connect the battery)
For your car - you figured out that if you dis/re-connect the battery, SAM craps. Which means you probably have to connect it with battery live?..
If the other car's battery is disconnected - I would just pull the SAM (remember it craps if you connect the battery)
For your car - you figured out that if you dis/re-connect the battery, SAM craps. Which means you probably have to connect it with battery live?..
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Just thoughts here, not an advise
If the other car's battery is disconnected - I would just pull the SAM (remember it craps if you connect the battery)
For your car - you figured out that if you dis/re-connect the battery, SAM craps. Which means you probably have to connect it with battery live?..
If the other car's battery is disconnected - I would just pull the SAM (remember it craps if you connect the battery)
For your car - you figured out that if you dis/re-connect the battery, SAM craps. Which means you probably have to connect it with battery live?..
I don't know what happens if you connect the sam when the battery already is connected in my car either. I'm afraid the front Sam might blow if I disconnect my battery..
Last edited by Steff95; 07-25-2013 at 07:48 AM.
#25
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I think in this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...repairing.html someone recommended connecting SAM with battery connected. But I kind of think it is similar to connecting the battery with SAM already there - you get some current spike either way(?) Maybe not as strong though?
UPD - people there think SAM gets blown during disconnection of battery, so...
UPD - people there think SAM gets blown during disconnection of battery, so...
Last edited by VVF; 07-25-2013 at 12:13 PM.