Hey guys I'm working on my front disks and I wanted to know what's the torque setting on that front nut ?its a 2001 C200K

Sorry for not STFF cause I'm all oiled and dirty 😖

 

See Wiki here:

https://mbworld.org/wiki/images/d/d2...aring_Play.pdf

 

Apparently it's the same as W203

 

Too late guys I damaged the whole thing

I thought I torqued it strong enough but I didn't. The two front
Wheels are very loose now and the bearings are pieces.

Waiting for the tow truck now

Look at that !

 

You can do it yourself as per the video...
Why did you play with that nut in the first place though?

 

I literally have no idea why I did that, I think
My mind was on something else while working and
I just took them off without thinking about it.

Lesson learned is i must concentrate while working
On trivial parts like that

The car is parked at the workshop now waiting for Monday.


I'll keep you guys updated with pics here. I feel so stupid..

Do you think there's any damage done to anything but the bearing ?

I drove About 600 meters or something.

 

If it makes you feel any better take a look at the guy wearing the Pope's shoes drifting his wankle.

 

From the first image it looks as if the taper bearing in the wrong way round?

 

You are correct, I also found that out after it was too late..


So the car is at the workshop now, will be finished this Wednesday (2 days from the time of this post)

Cost is about $800 USD to get the front bearings done (including parts and tax)

a bit expensive since i could already buy the spindles readily installed and bolt on off Ebay for like 100$ each, but i don't have proper tools to adjust the bearing play, and i'm scared i'll mess up something again, so yeah, I'd rather leave that to the workshop !

but there goes my Kleeman boost kit money

 

+1^ ~ We have all done stupid things in our car history.

 

Ouch!

If you didn't know which way to install a taper bearing, then on your next DIY repair I suggest you double and triple-check with the forums (with pics) before starting your work.

This was a very simple thing to catch ... I'm sorry I did not open that post when I saw it )since I am not into replacing bearings right now) ... but a title of "HELP! -- Did I install the wheel bearing correctly?" would have probably prompted me to look.

With taper wheel bearings on non-driving wheels you really don't torque anything -- you hand tighten the lock nut until it's snug, then back off ever so slightly. The instructions referenced by Glyn give you the specs and have you use a special measuring tool to get the exact amount of play ... but on my dad's cars when I was a kid I just backed off the lock nut maybe 1/16 of a turn, tightened the set screw and it was fine.

 

Yes ~ I'm sorry now that I did not blow up the picture or I would have shouted a warning.

 

I know you're totally right , but I don't like to be that person who floods the forum with "Help me with this, help me with that" kind of posts, that's why I didn't really ask too many questions

thanks for the info you've given, it's always good to know that, non drive wheels don't need torquing, my worry was that i'd lock it too hard and cause damage to the bearing, so i thought just slightly locking it then take it the next day to the garage to do it properly, such a simple mistake caused such damage..

I'm glad i didn't drive any further, Would've lost front wheels and destroyed way much more than I did now and even risk someone's life, so it's a "success" hehe

thanks for all of you guys, don't feel guilty, it's no one's fault but me

will keep you posted, got some nice mods that i'll be doing sometime soon that you'll like , I always post write ups when i have something to show !

 

Glad you are a good sport about all this as many have said we have all have done stupid things while working on cars. I could tell you all about the stupid thing I did to make my car fall off a jack it was all the way up or the time I lowered my open car door onto a jack stand (accident of course) Btw the Mercedes doors are very very Strong they can support way more than a man (anyone see that commercial)

 

I left a plastic cap in the engine compartment once and the hood won't latch properly.
Well, I slammed it harder and busted the hood strut...

 

Oh wow that's gotta suck buddy , yeah I know they're really tough doors !, haven't seen that ad though, should find it !

 

If I had a penny for every time I did that, never managed to break anything, but that's a matter of time

 

Ok guys, just an update. I got the car yesterday, costed almost 1,500 usd, luckily it's just bearings that were damaged. Everything else is great. My new ebc brakes are perfect and while bedding them I got really good stopping power !, now I'm happy

 

As Glyn says, pleased it's sorted.
Are those brakes ceramic?
Do you have a link to them?

 

Yeah, They're EBC brakes,

Those are the front rotors and Rears

and those front and rear pads

The images shown on the rears are just placeholders, that's what they actually look like, to avoid confusion

The only catch is that the wear sensors that came with the front pads can't fit because they have a different shaped plug, so i Just used the old ones !

 

This calls for a thread on stupid ways you've damaged your car.

 

Hello all,

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I was looking up all I can about front wheel bearings - car is making some slight grinding noise on the front. Could be the bearings or a stuck brake caliper.

In any case, looking at the video on how to change the bearings, I guess its been driven into our heads to always torque the wheel bolts to 110Nm. We have 5 bolts per wheel, which secure the wheel to the hub.

BUT we have a teeny weeny lock nut that secures the entire hub to the spindle?? Is that all that's preventing the entire hub (wheel included) from flying off the spindle at speed?

Any insights would be welcome.

Regards,
torquewrench.

 

The front wheels are not like the drive axle where you torque down the hub to the axle very tightly.

On the front wheels with taper bearings, the large nut is actually ever so slightly loose to allow some lateral play in the bearings. it's on the order of a couple of hundredths of an inch maybe -- a very small amount. What I've done in the past on my cars is to tighten the nut snugly with my hand while turning the wheel, then I back off about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn until you can feel the pressure of the nut off the bearing completely. You should still not be able to feel any looseness in the hub if you shake it at that point, but there will be the slightest amount of play to keep the bearings from being on constant load and wearing prematurely.

Then tighten the lock bolt on the nut down hand tight, nice and snug. I wouldn't torque it, but if you had to I'd guess something very low like 5 ft-lbs.

 

Thanks jkowtko. Not questioning the install/deinstall procedure at all. Have read and seen the videos on YouTube.

Once you unscrew the locknut and yank on the actual hub, it comes off quite easily. At speed, the tyre and rim assembly acts like a flywheel (no pun intended). I'm no Physics grad, but I am sure there're some centrifugal + gyroscopic forces at work. And all being held in place only by the locknut.

Seems a little flimsy to me. No?

Regards,
torquewrench

 

I think you are on to something here. You just need to go to the MB chief designer in Germany and tell him his locknuts suck

Btw, with cotter pins it is very hard to achieve precise bearing adjustment since the holes for the pin have only so many combinations.