Wheel bearing nut torque ?
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Wheel bearing nut torque ?
Hey guys I'm working on my front disks and I wanted to know what's the torque setting on that front nut ?its a 2001 C200K
Sorry for not STFF cause I'm all oiled and dirty 😖
Sorry for not STFF cause I'm all oiled and dirty 😖
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Too late guys 
I damaged the whole thing
I thought I torqued it strong enough but I didn't. The two front
Wheels are very loose now and the bearings are pieces.
Waiting for the tow truck now
Look at that !
I damaged the whole thingI thought I torqued it strong enough but I didn't. The two front
Wheels are very loose now and the bearings are pieces.
Waiting for the tow truck now
Look at that !
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
My mind was on something else while working and
I just took them off without thinking about it.
Lesson learned is i must concentrate while working
On trivial parts like that
The car is parked at the workshop now waiting for Monday.
I'll keep you guys updated with pics here. I feel so stupid..
Do you think there's any damage done to anything but the bearing ?
I drove About 600 meters or something.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
So the car is at the workshop now, will be finished this Wednesday (2 days from the time of this post)
Cost is about $800 USD to get the front bearings done (including parts and tax)
a bit expensive since i could already buy the spindles readily installed and bolt on off Ebay for like 100$ each, but i don't have proper tools to adjust the bearing play, and i'm scared i'll mess up something again, so yeah, I'd rather leave that to the workshop !
but there goes my Kleeman boost kit money
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Ouch!
If you didn't know which way to install a taper bearing, then on your next DIY repair I suggest you double and triple-check with the forums (with pics) before starting your work.
This was a very simple thing to catch ... I'm sorry I did not open that post when I saw it )since I am not into replacing bearings right now) ... but a title of "HELP! -- Did I install the wheel bearing correctly?" would have probably prompted me to look.
With taper wheel bearings on non-driving wheels you really don't torque anything -- you hand tighten the lock nut until it's snug, then back off ever so slightly. The instructions referenced by Glyn give you the specs and have you use a special measuring tool to get the exact amount of play ... but on my dad's cars when I was a kid I just backed off the lock nut maybe 1/16 of a turn, tightened the set screw and it was fine.
If you didn't know which way to install a taper bearing, then on your next DIY repair I suggest you double and triple-check with the forums (with pics) before starting your work.
This was a very simple thing to catch ... I'm sorry I did not open that post when I saw it )since I am not into replacing bearings right now) ... but a title of "HELP! -- Did I install the wheel bearing correctly?" would have probably prompted me to look.
With taper wheel bearings on non-driving wheels you really don't torque anything -- you hand tighten the lock nut until it's snug, then back off ever so slightly. The instructions referenced by Glyn give you the specs and have you use a special measuring tool to get the exact amount of play ... but on my dad's cars when I was a kid I just backed off the lock nut maybe 1/16 of a turn, tightened the set screw and it was fine.
Last edited by jkowtko; Sep 16, 2013 at 10:06 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
Likes: 3
From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Ouch!
If you didn't know which way to install a taper bearing, then on your next DIY repair I suggest you double and triple-check with the forums (with pics) before starting your work.
This was a very simple thing to catch ... I'm sorry I did not open that post when I saw it )since I am not into replacing bearings right now) ... but a title of "HELP! -- Did I install the wheel bearing correctly?" would have probably prompted me to look.
With taper wheel bearings on non-driving wheels you really don't torque anything -- you hand tighten the lock nut until it's snug, then back off ever so slightly. The instructions referenced by Glyn give you the specs and have you use a special measuring tool to get the exact amount of play ... but on my dad's cars when I was a kid I just backed off the lock nut maybe 1/16 of a turn, tightened the set screw and it was fine.
If you didn't know which way to install a taper bearing, then on your next DIY repair I suggest you double and triple-check with the forums (with pics) before starting your work.
This was a very simple thing to catch ... I'm sorry I did not open that post when I saw it )since I am not into replacing bearings right now) ... but a title of "HELP! -- Did I install the wheel bearing correctly?" would have probably prompted me to look.
With taper wheel bearings on non-driving wheels you really don't torque anything -- you hand tighten the lock nut until it's snug, then back off ever so slightly. The instructions referenced by Glyn give you the specs and have you use a special measuring tool to get the exact amount of play ... but on my dad's cars when I was a kid I just backed off the lock nut maybe 1/16 of a turn, tightened the set screw and it was fine.
thanks for the info you've given, it's always good to know that, non drive wheels don't need torquing, my worry was that i'd lock it too hard and cause damage to the bearing, so i thought just slightly locking it then take it the next day to the garage to do it properly, such a simple mistake caused such damage..
I'm glad i didn't drive any further, Would've lost front wheels and destroyed way much more than I did now and even risk someone's life, so it's a "success" hehe
thanks for all of you guys, don't feel guilty, it's no one's fault but me
will keep you posted, got some nice mods that i'll be doing sometime soon that you'll like
, I always post write ups when i have something to show !
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From: VA
THE C350
Glad you are a good sport about all this as many have said we have all have done stupid things while working on cars. I could tell you all about the stupid thing I did to make my car fall off a jack it was all the way up or the time I lowered my open car door onto a jack stand (accident of course) Btw the Mercedes doors are very very Strong they can support way more than a man (anyone see that commercial)
Last edited by samaritrey; Sep 16, 2013 at 08:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Glad you are a good sport about all this as many have said we have all have done stupid things while working on cars. I could tell you all about the stupid thing I did to make my car fall off a jack it was all the way up or the time I lowered my open car door onto a jack stand (accident of course) Btw the Mercedes doors are very very Strong they can support way more than a man (anyone see that commercial)
, yeah I know they're really tough doors !, haven't seen that ad though, should find it !
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
Likes: 3
From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Ok guys, just an update. I got the car yesterday, costed almost 1,500 usd, luckily it's just bearings that were damaged. Everything else is great. My new ebc brakes are perfect and while bedding them I got really good stopping power !, now I'm happy 
As Glyn says, pleased it's sorted.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 123
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From: Norway
W203 C200K (2001)
Those are the front rotors and Rears
and those front and rear pads
The images shown on the rears are just placeholders, that's what they actually look like, to avoid confusion
The only catch is that the wear sensors that came with the front pads can't fit because they have a different shaped plug, so i Just used the old ones !
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
This calls for a thread on stupid ways you've damaged your car.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 23, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 22
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From: Germany
2005 C200 T CDI
Hello all,
Sorry to bump this old thread, but I was looking up all I can about front wheel bearings - car is making some slight grinding noise on the front. Could be the bearings or a stuck brake caliper.
In any case, looking at the video on how to change the bearings, I guess its been driven into our heads to always torque the wheel bolts to 110Nm. We have 5 bolts per wheel, which secure the wheel to the hub.
BUT we have a teeny weeny lock nut that secures the entire hub to the spindle?? Is that all that's preventing the entire hub (wheel included) from flying off the spindle at speed?
Any insights would be welcome.
Regards,
torquewrench.
Sorry to bump this old thread, but I was looking up all I can about front wheel bearings - car is making some slight grinding noise on the front. Could be the bearings or a stuck brake caliper.
In any case, looking at the video on how to change the bearings, I guess its been driven into our heads to always torque the wheel bolts to 110Nm. We have 5 bolts per wheel, which secure the wheel to the hub.
BUT we have a teeny weeny lock nut that secures the entire hub to the spindle?? Is that all that's preventing the entire hub (wheel included) from flying off the spindle at speed?
Any insights would be welcome.
Regards,
torquewrench.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
The front wheels are not like the drive axle where you torque down the hub to the axle very tightly.
On the front wheels with taper bearings, the large nut is actually ever so slightly loose to allow some lateral play in the bearings. it's on the order of a couple of hundredths of an inch maybe -- a very small amount. What I've done in the past on my cars is to tighten the nut snugly with my hand while turning the wheel, then I back off about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn until you can feel the pressure of the nut off the bearing completely. You should still not be able to feel any looseness in the hub if you shake it at that point, but there will be the slightest amount of play to keep the bearings from being on constant load and wearing prematurely.
Then tighten the lock bolt on the nut down hand tight, nice and snug. I wouldn't torque it, but if you had to I'd guess something very low like 5 ft-lbs.
On the front wheels with taper bearings, the large nut is actually ever so slightly loose to allow some lateral play in the bearings. it's on the order of a couple of hundredths of an inch maybe -- a very small amount. What I've done in the past on my cars is to tighten the nut snugly with my hand while turning the wheel, then I back off about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn until you can feel the pressure of the nut off the bearing completely. You should still not be able to feel any looseness in the hub if you shake it at that point, but there will be the slightest amount of play to keep the bearings from being on constant load and wearing prematurely.
Then tighten the lock bolt on the nut down hand tight, nice and snug. I wouldn't torque it, but if you had to I'd guess something very low like 5 ft-lbs.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 22
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From: Germany
2005 C200 T CDI
Thanks jkowtko. Not questioning the install/deinstall procedure at all. Have read and seen the videos on YouTube.
Once you unscrew the locknut and yank on the actual hub, it comes off quite easily. At speed, the tyre and rim assembly acts like a flywheel (no pun intended). I'm no Physics grad, but I am sure there're some centrifugal + gyroscopic forces at work. And all being held in place only by the locknut.
Seems a little flimsy to me. No?
Regards,
torquewrench
Once you unscrew the locknut and yank on the actual hub, it comes off quite easily. At speed, the tyre and rim assembly acts like a flywheel (no pun intended). I'm no Physics grad, but I am sure there're some centrifugal + gyroscopic forces at work. And all being held in place only by the locknut.
Seems a little flimsy to me. No?
Regards,
torquewrench
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
2005 C230K(sold), Mk7 Jetta
I think you are on to something here. You just need to go to the MB chief designer in Germany and tell him his locknuts suck
Btw, with cotter pins it is very hard to achieve precise bearing adjustment since the holes for the pin have only so many combinations.
Btw, with cotter pins it is very hard to achieve precise bearing adjustment since the holes for the pin have only so many combinations.
