OEM or after-market gaskets??
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From: Los Angeles, CA. USA
2013 c250
OEM or after-market gaskets??
I'm doing a valve cover gasket leak repair (actually a cylinder head gasket leak to be specific) on my 2005 C230. I got an after-market valve cover gasket kit. Now I'm questining the after-market gaskets b/c I read that, "on the M112 and M113 engines, the aftermarket Victor Reinz gaskets are too thin and don't seal." Same deal with the M271 engine???
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From: Los Angeles, CA. USA
2013 c250
Thanks, RWD, that's what I was looking for! W/ regard to the valve cover gasket replacement on the M271, did you have to remove the 4 ignition coils? If so, did you have to disconnect the battery too?
Last edited by scottonfire; Dec 7, 2013 at 12:57 PM.
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From: Carolinas
2005 C230K SS
Yup, I did spark plugs too so I removed the coils. You have to remove the bolts holding the coils to remove the VC anyway, they are part of the VC bolts. I did not disconnect the battery though, no problems.....
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2013 c250
ps. I've seen videos where they add some silicone to the seals and in the half moon parts. Would you recommend doing this or just dry?
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From: Carolinas
2005 C230K SS
Okay, good, I just don't wanna worry about the aftermath of a disconnected battery with the ECU. Now, if I'm not replacing spark plugs, but replacing the gaskets for the spark plugs, can I get away with not removing the coils?
ps. I've seen videos where they add some silicone to the seals and in the half moon parts. Would you recommend doing this or just dry?
ps. I've seen videos where they add some silicone to the seals and in the half moon parts. Would you recommend doing this or just dry?
Thread Starter
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From: Los Angeles, CA. USA
2013 c250
Last edited by scottonfire; Dec 7, 2013 at 03:32 PM.
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From: Carolinas
2005 C230K SS
Looks like you got it all.....the timing cover is a b@#ch to get to since it's wedged in between the cylinder head and the oil pan. To remove it, you have to remove one of those two, and both are a ton of work. What you might do is evenly check the timing cover bolts and make sure they are snug/torqued to specs. That gasket is not prone to leaking, it's not a rubber gasket like the VC gasket. When you are putting the VC gasket back on, clean the mating surfaces well and make sure you don't overtighten. Use a criss cross pattern (there is a diagram somewhere on this forum). Good luck....
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Los Angeles, CA. USA
2013 c250
Looks like you got it all.....the timing cover is a b@#ch to get to since it's wedged in between the cylinder head and the oil pan. To remove it, you have to remove one of those two, and both are a ton of work. What you might do is evenly check the timing cover bolts and make sure they are snug/torqued to specs. That gasket is not prone to leaking, it's not a rubber gasket like the VC gasket. When you are putting the VC gasket back on, clean the mating surfaces well and make sure you don't overtighten. Use a criss cross pattern (there is a diagram somewhere on this forum). Good luck....
"The cylinder head cover sits on the top of this cover, thus the two gaskets make a "T" intersection. Once you get the head cover off, you can see this front cover, and if the leak is from it, remove the accessory belt and the thermostat and a few bolts."
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From: Carolinas
2005 C230K SS
Did some searching around, seems there is a front cover where the cam magnets and thermostat attach. If you have a leak from this area then it seems a simple enough job. I highly doubt that though, a VC leak is more likely. The front/timing covers don't have gaskets, sealants are used.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
You have an inline 4 so no problem there. For those with V6 models do not use Reinz. They don't fit & conform to required thickness in V6 & V8 models & cause leaks. You will see this complaint frequently on the W209 forum.
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do i still have to take off the cylinder head gasket and use the valve cover gasket set to fix or does this change everything? Dealership said camshaft solenoid was replaced by previous owner so is it possible the leak's fixed?
Last edited by scottonfire; Dec 9, 2013 at 12:44 AM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
It looks as though both cam magnets are leaking again. They should have fitted pigtales. Pull those plugs & look for signs of oil. Someone is BSing here. You need to stop those leaks before the engine harness becomes saturated.
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2013 c250
I called MB- chick said they warranty their work for one year. Even if it's still an open recall? Sound like bill shlt to me. Is there any way to know if they really didn't fix it the first time??
Last edited by scottonfire; Dec 9, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
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2013 c250
I called MB USA. They said the camshaft solenoids were replaced July, 2011. I said I want them fixed since they shouldn't leak again after 2 1/2 years. The guy said he'll 'escalate' it and have some ******* call me w/ in 24 hours and they'll want me to bring it in to be diagnosed. I said I'm not paying for having it diagnosed either, so we'll see. I'd rather spend that money on replacing the solenoids myself b/c that's probably how much a diagnostic blah blah would cost anyway.
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2013 c250
Talked to some jacka$$ @ MB USA for 30 min's. So they want me to take it to MB dealership and of course pay for a diagnosis. Then MAYBE they'll fix it. F that!
I'm thinking of cleaning the engine, waiting till the leak comes back. If it is indeed the cam magnets, take it to dealership and say "LOOK, now can you verify it's a cam magnet leak (w/o charging me) so I can call back MB USA and get this taken care of."
I'm thinking of cleaning the engine, waiting till the leak comes back. If it is indeed the cam magnets, take it to dealership and say "LOOK, now can you verify it's a cam magnet leak (w/o charging me) so I can call back MB USA and get this taken care of."
