Where to place jack stands?

personally i would not trust the cut down hockey pucks (I speak as someone who has survived with a car coming down on them while under, so I prefer a more direct contact and I double up on the jacks as a back up fail safe ie 4 main contact points and 4 other points that are with in a 1"fall...you can never rid of the fear when something like that happen in one's life)
Make sure the jack stands are on flat stable ground, concrete only; if it is asphalt then you need a 1' x1' 3/4" plywood as a base for the stands
Last edited by Boom vang; Oct 21, 2014 at 08:56 AM.
Also, after you jack the car do a stability test by shaking the car with your body weight making sure that it will not fall or move before you get under the car. You can also leave your tires under the frame if you are working with your wheels off.
Recently worked on my BMW 5series which is a very very heavy car, Jacked all four frame mounting corners and left the pump jack on the rear differential so it kind of had a 5 point support. And I was getting under the car from the front. Basically doing a tranny full flush job.
Javvy
Last edited by Javvy; Oct 21, 2014 at 09:01 AM.
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plus I have the same in rubber as well....
but still the 2x6 works better that both of the above....casue it is very difficult to stabalize these circular pads on the jack stand's curved groove....very diffcuilt to center these....
javvy
http://www.reverselogic.us/jack-stands.html
Good find tommy.... :thumbsup:
javvy

I did the same thing a couple of months ago - the HF aluminum jack stands are pretty good, especially for the price, but yeah - the RL ones would be much better and probably worth the price jump.
Spend $30 on some special tools like a pair of Clic-R pliers instead.
The jackstand is perpendicular to the direction of the car, so the plywood can pivot in the jack stand saddle to accomodate the angled pitch of the car.
My jackstands are Sears 1.5 ton ... the saddle is about 3" wide, just reaching around the sides of the plywood.



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