evanmitchell

I'm very new to this car and want to work on it without damaging it. Most of underneath is covered so I can't immediately see where to place jack stands unless the covers were removed, but I'm not about to get under it supported only by a jack. Where do you put your stands?

tommy

Behind the front wheels on the frame rail and in front of the rear wheels, same place- there are notches for them. I think there's a diagram in the owners' manual. There's a hockey puck jackpoint between the front wheels to jack up the car til you can get the stands in (obvious hole in the plastic undercladding), then you can use the diff housing to lift up the rear.

VVF

(That's a hockey puck trimmed to fit)





Or just place jack stands like so:


(Images from benzworld link)

evanmitchell

Wow thanks this really helps a lot!

ncmudbug

I got aluminum blocks with detents to hold them in the jack points from http://www.reverselogic.us/. Those hockey pucks look like a great inexpensive alternative.

Boom vang

I put mine like this but perpendicular to this orientation so that the stand straddles the lower frame rail.

personally i would not trust the cut down hockey pucks (I speak as someone who has survived with a car coming down on them while under, so I prefer a more direct contact and I double up on the jacks as a back up fail safe ie 4 main contact points and 4 other points that are with in a 1"fall...you can never rid of the fear when something like that happen in one's life)

Make sure the jack stands are on flat stable ground, concrete only; if it is asphalt then you need a 1' x1' 3/4" plywood as a base for the stands

Javvy

I used a piece 2x6 sandwiched between the jack stand and the frame mounting point. I found to be the best just make sure that they are centered correctly. I also have the jack mounting pads from amazon, but still find the 2x6 method the best as it give a nice soft support to the whole car and stabalizes it very nicely.

Also, after you jack the car do a stability test by shaking the car with your body weight making sure that it will not fall or move before you get under the car. You can also leave your tires under the frame if you are working with your wheels off.

Recently worked on my BMW 5series which is a very very heavy car, Jacked all four frame mounting corners and left the pump jack on the rear differential so it kind of had a 5 point support. And I was getting under the car from the front. Basically doing a tranny full flush job.

Javvy

tommy

Has anyone tried the Reverse Logic adaptors? They're $31 (one could buy many more hockey pucks!!), but look like a better solution. I'm sure they could even be powdercoated a nice, smurfy blue.

Javvy

here you go the ones that I have from amazon...


plus I have the same in rubber as well....

but still the 2x6 works better that both of the above....casue it is very difficult to stabalize these circular pads on the jack stand's curved groove....very diffcuilt to center these....

javvy

tommy

Which is why I suggested the Reverse Logic ones...

Reverse Logic's Solution

Javvy

I love these...did not know they existed...man I just dumped money on 4 alluminum jack stand from HF...what a waste...2 of these would have saved me so much trouble...the ones with tripod stand with pivoting head would work beautifully for my requirement, since my drive way is a little bit inclined....

http://www.reverselogic.us/jack-stands.html

Good find tommy.... :thumbsup:

javvy

tommy

I'm here to please.

I did the same thing a couple of months ago - the HF aluminum jack stands are pretty good, especially for the price, but yeah - the RL ones would be much better and probably worth the price jump.

jkowtko

Man, that's a lot of money to spend for little blocks. I cut some 3" x 4" pieces of 1/2" plywood for mine. The wood barely gets dented by the weight of the car. I may cave at some point and cut a smaller piece to mount on the larger piece to act as a centering plug inside car mount's cavity. But entirely unnecessary.

Spend $30 on some special tools like a pair of Clic-R pliers instead.

VVF

John, you mean your plywood pieces currently "cover" the entire mounts?
And then you put the saddle of the jackstand perpendicular to the car rail, right?

jkowtko

Yes, they cover the mounts, hanging over 1/2" or so all around.

The jackstand is perpendicular to the direction of the car, so the plywood can pivot in the jack stand saddle to accomodate the angled pitch of the car.

My jackstands are Sears 1.5 ton ... the saddle is about 3" wide, just reaching around the sides of the plywood.

VVF

got you!