jlm003

There's a product called Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant, costs about $4.00 and can be found at the local Pep Boys store.

It comes in an 8 oz. grayish can/bottle with a built-in brush in the cap (as you pull it out). I've been using this stuff for years and ALWAYS brush it on ALL automotive screws and bolts, specially wheel lug nuts/bolts. This will allow you to remove ANY bolt/nut/screw in the future with minimal effort.

I remember once on my old MB-300E and prior to using this product, I had to use a 5 foot pipe slipped over my lug wrench to take a wheel off. Scarry!!!

This grease will withstand 1600 degree Farenheit temperatures and it's great for sparkplugs, marine use and any around the house projects. Bottom line... Use it on anything/everything that you may want to unscrew, disconnect or disassemble in the future. I swear by it...

s4iscool

Also people swear by NOT using antiseize on lugs. I am one of them, and dont find it needed. You canot properly torque a wheel if you have antiseize on the threads of your lugs.

jlm003

I somewhat agree with you s4iscool about how an anti-seize compound could possibly skew a critical torque reading, with the emphasis on possibly and critical.

However, in the real world the average car owner does NOT have a torque wrench and probably relies on 'I don't want the wheel to come off or feels tight to me". As to the dealership and/or the local tire shop, well they usually use air pistols calibrated to tighten just to the point that bolt or nut doesn't snap off.

Given the above, this product not only makes sense but it will surely make you work and effort a lot easier the day you have to change a flat tire or you want to take your wheels off to change to "dustless" brake pads.

Just my $.02...

Greg Elmassian

Anti-sieze will offset the torque reading, well known fact, compensate for it and you are fine. (5-10 lbs difference)

Actually you are better off, will make torquing more consistent.

Apply with an old toothbrush to threads, then you can get a thin, even coating. It's great for preventing rust and corrosion also.

Greg

Outland

What do you think keeps things together inside your motor? Its certainly not 'dry threads'.

You don't understand how to properly torque a fasterner. IN a properly torqued joint, the faster is stretched- this is called clamp load. Antisieze compound will not negatively affect a properly stretched fastener. Most bolts are supposed to have a slight oiling before assembly- so the input torque isn't eaten up overcoming friction. If a nut or bolt loosens- its becuase the joint is crappy. Things like locktite, lockwashers, and self locking nuts/heads are just insurance, or used when the engineer has a less than elegant solution. Often times a mfr will elect not to lube threads during assembly becuase it saves an opperation, and therfore reduces assembly time and cost.

Use the antiseize anytime you take something apart that's going to be exposed to the elements- its sure makes putting it back together easier, and ensures better resultant torque(or torque to turn, breakaway torque, or whatever the company involved calls it- and each company is somewhat different), and it will save you time, parts, and money should you have to take it apart again.

If youre a complete dolt who just keeps cranking on things until they don't turn anymore, then maybe you should stay away from antiseize compound- cause you'll have to learn how to properly use and read a torque wrench.

s4iscool

Chill out Mr. Engineer. Dont blow one quote out of porportion, if you read what I said, my statement only applies to lugs on the wheel.

You can aruge with many mechanics who believe that antiseize for lugs in not needed. I could go either way, but prefer not to use them on wheel lugs as I have heard and read many times.

breastroker

Murphy's Law states that s4iscool will have a blow out or tire puncture far away from any service. When he starts to take the tire off, he will brake his arm cause the torque is too great for the little handle on the lug wrench. Only then will he wish he put antiseize on the bolts All most as bad is removing the wheel rim, many times you got to kick it to loosen the rust compounds. Had some rims I thought would never come off.

All good mechanics use antiseize for lugs and the proper locktite product on other bolts. Doesn't matter if on a car, jet engine, or other mechanical device, all fastners should have something on them to easy in installation and removal.

s4iscool

You are wrong again lemming boy. Read up and listen to race techs who swear by never using antiseize on lugs...but I understand that others swear by using a little...choose what you want, I could care less what you do.

Also, if you cant properly break free a wheel from the hub, you got other issues. This has nothing to do with using antiseize on the lugs. Oh, did you know that a "wheel" and the "rim" are the same thing? Later nerd.

s4iscool

Just from someone who might know a bit about wheels and lugs:


Rep from Tirerack:

"I thought everybody understood the use of anti-seize until I spoke with a person who is ...err ...was very well respected in the automotive industry and sent him to school... So I thought I would share this info. If he didn't know I'm guessing alot of others wouldn't either.

Anti-sieze on a lug bolt is a very bad idea !!!

Here's why: Bolts or studs provide clamping force by being purposely stretched. Most torque specs bring a bolt well within its elastic limit. Then when loosened they will return to their original length and can be safely reused (Some bolts, including many head bolts, are purposely stretched past their elastic limit, and can not be reused). The torque wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching automotive bolts. Engineers spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort.

About 90% of a torque specification is used to overcome friction; only 10% of the specified twisting effort provides clamping force. It is no surprise then that most lubricant tables recommend a 40-45% reduction of applied torque when using anti-sieze on a bolt. So, a lugbolt coated with anti-sieze should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs. Tightening this lugnut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%! Considering that most torque specs stretch a bolt to within 70% of its elastic limit, over-torquing by 73% will easily send the bolt or stud well beyond its elastic limit-and could be dangerously close to its failure point.

For this reason I would suggest to all forum members to never use anti-seize on your lug hardware.
"

Mike T.

That's as eloquent an argument as any as to why anti-seize compund, grease and other contaminants should not be used on wheel nuts. People who don't know what they're doing should not change wheels. Period.

I do change wheels (summer wheels/tires+winter wheels/tires) and I've been using a torque wrench on wheel nuts since I first bought a car.

If you ever see a tire shop or mechanic that does not use a torque wrench for final tightening, run, don't walk away!

Big Terry

Thanks for the tip

Outland

Probably an idiot from Ford.

Quote:

The torque wrench is the most convenient-but not the most accurate-method of properly stretching automotive bolts.

For the home user, a torque wrench is plenty accurate. Assembly quality torque wrenches have to be accurate to within +/- 4%. Critical joints are always spec'd out with a pretorque and angle. You still use a torque wrench to do the pretorque.

Quote:

Engineers spend hours correlating the proper bolt stretch to the required turning effort.

That's a laugh. More like minutes on the phone asking the fastener vendor what the thing can take before it shears off.

Quote:

So, a lugbolt coated with anti-sieze should be tightened to a maximum of 49 ft-lbs. Tightening this lugnut to 85 ft-lbs. means it is now over-torqued by 73%!

1. You always target the median of the torque range- not the maximum
2. I did say if your the kind of dolt who just keeps cranking, not to use antisieze.

Quote:

For this reason I would suggest to all forum members to never use anti-seize on your lug hardware.
"

BS. A thin film to keep them from rusting on is a worthwhile effort. Smearing some on the mating surface of the rim or rotor hub is also a good idea. Ever had a rim stay on after all the bolts or nuts are removed? I have, its a pain to get off. Besides, you won't break your back cranking the nuts on or off. Most car wheels re-installed at home are undertorqued. Or unevenly torqued, which is just as bad.