When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been looking on the forum but can't find anything, does anyone have or could link me to a PDF or a Thread about replacing the engine mounts on w203 m271 engine?
Let me know if you need any other documents. I have the WIS software. It took me a while to figure out how to use the basic functionality. I'm still learning. :-)
Oh I thought of one! Cylinder head removal and gasket replacement
That's a lot of work on an M271. I know that for a fact.
The question is: Why do you think that the head gasket is bad?
What are your compression readings, dry and wet?
Fwiw, here are the compression tests from my car. I knew that a cylinder was bad when I bought the car. I saw the codes. Fwiw, I didn't give a rat's *ss. I've rebuilt a number of engines, and replaced a number of heads/gaskets.
I was looking for a very very specific color - Red, model - C230, years - 2005, and consider 2002-2004, and type -coupe, engine type - Kompressor, and low mileage. And, the body and interior had to be in great shape and ZERO rust. My car was never driven in the snow. And, I had to get a good feeling about the sellers. Without going into a lot of detail, I can read most people pretty well.
Imho, proper leak-down tests are questionable and "risky" on aluminum heads. Imho, it really takes a dealer mechanic that knows that engine very well to be able to properly interpret a cold-engine leak-down test on a specific engine.
Leak down tests are really only valid on warm/hot engines. But, removing a spark plug from a warm/hot aluminum head is risky! So, to do a leak down test on an aluminum head engine, that means when the engine is cold, remove the spark plugs, coat the threads very well with anti-seize, put the spark plugs back in "just tight engine" (again this risky if they are too loose), warm up the engine, carefully remove the spark plugs. Then do the leak down test.
In real-life, I'd say very very very few non dealer mechanics do it that way. And, a dealer mechanic would have info from other mechanics on how a specific engine tests cold with a leak-down test.
Fwiw, imho, the M271 head gasket and the way the head seals is very good.
BUT, the engine sucks in way too much oil and vapor from the valve cover breather. That coats the intake tubes, the thermo-plastic intake, and the intake valves.
So, I'm going to install dual catch cans. Imho, I'll do a dual setup, and not worry about the path of the oil/vapor.
Plus, as I've read, MB did a valve seal redesign around 2005. Plus, MB has at least two more updated versions of the cylinder head. It seems that no one knows, at least that I could find on the web, what the differences are between the head versions. My guess is that professional head re-builders know.
See now I'm having a blank lol , if you could send me a link of the software it be awesome! But I can't really think what i need right now :p
This bring up a good point.
I got mine on ebay, because I couldn't buy the manual/software for my car from the dealer or an authorized dealer. WTF??
Maybe the newest versions also cover my 2005? I went to the MB website to try to buy the service manual/dvd/whatever for my car, and I got that it was no longer offered.
So, I bought 4+ versions of WIS from ebay.
Wow, the way the sellers have the user setup the install varies a lot! They all use a virtual PC window.
One seller has instructions that are a board-line JOKE. Copy this, install this, run this, delete this, copy this, run this, copy this. WTH???
The one that I decided to use runs under a VmWare virtual WindowsXP system. If you run that from a (decent speed) WindowsXP machine, you get the printers imported. Also, I tweaked the virtual machine setting so that the virtual machine uses 1.5GB of ram (vs 500MB) and 4 processors (vs 1 processor).
The software that I like sells for $16 on ebay.
I sent you a PM with the software that I like and now use. Again, from what I could tell, the biggest difference seems to be in the virtual software the sellers use/require, the OS the software runs under, and the install methods.
I don't need to change the head gasket but I might need to change the cylinder head. I have a problem when I drive the car and once I am at a complete stop , after a while the car will misfire. Cylinder 1 misfires and the car vibrates and goes into limp mode. I have changed the timing chain already , 12 hose, all hoses, vacuum pump and clean MAF still having an issue and basically almost pulled the engine apart. My engine mounts are failing but that wont be the cause of a engine misfire.
I ordered a compression testing kit so as soon as that comes in ill be sure to share what I found. I know there is a bad issue with bent valves but I went in there with a camera doesn't seem to be any sludge, valves look good , spark plugs have been changed so Im hoping its an timing issue or even a crank sensor.
As for engine sucking up too much oil... I know exactly what you mean. In my wide band there is always a tone of oil, and as well as the hose intake into the supercharger. I have seen people install oil catch can but many of them say there isn't much improvement just more to do when servicing the car.
I've done a lot to this car since I got it, slowly chipping away the faults bit by bit
Error codes 145 xxxkm
P0304 cylinder 4 misfire
P0313 misfire with low fuel
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire
P0238 supercharger boost sensor a circuit high
P0172 system too rich bank 1
P0101 mass or volume air flow a circuit range/performance
New Error Codes 147 xxxkm
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
New Error Codes 148 xxxkm
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0237 Supercharger Boost sensor a Circuit Low
P0238 Supercharger Boost sensor a Circuit High
New Error code 152 xxxkm
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
Repairs
Replaced 4x 6” fusion 210 watts Speakers with tweeters
Drivers door panel
Cigarette lighter replacement and install
Passenger seat adjuster
Rear brake bulbs
Driver side door mirror
Front bumper
Wiper blades
Water drain passage
Sun roof motor repair
Sunroof rails
Indicator replacement
LCD dash screen
Reverse camera
Power window switch
HID lights (low beam and fog lights)
Mechanical
New battery
Battery mounts
Battery terminals
Airbox piping
Supercharger vacuum hoses
Vacuum pump
Rocker gasket
4x Ignition gaskets
Cylinder 4 ignition pack
Idler pulley
Tensioner pulley
Surplentine belt ( at 155 xxxkm)
Air filter (at 148 xxxkm)
Air cabinet filter (at 148 xxxkm)
Varta DIN95 Battery (top of the line)
Alternator Pulley
3x Exhaust Hangers
Ac compressor replacement
Belt tensioner
Rear sway bar bushing
Heater motor actuator
Stepper motor arm
Power steering pump replacement
Belt tensioner replacement
Service
156 xxxkms
Oil change
Oil Filter change
4 New spark Plugs
Air Filter
Coolant Flush
166 xxx kms
Oil change
Front brakes
Air filter
Bleed brakes
The valves will look good with the cylinder head in or out of the engine. The valve faces and seats are what get the caked on deposits.
Aluminum head design has been an industry "problem/issue/concern" since their have been Aluminum heads. It's a somewhat niche knowledge area. I'm far from an expert. But, I know the subject pretty well.
Imho, the better valve seals that MB did will help a little. But, as long as the engine is burning oil through the intake system, having valve sealing problems are going to crop up. Yea, some people get lucky. Imho, if MB was Ford, GM, Toyota, or Honda, they would've had a massive class action law suit concerning the misfires and the timing chain.
Imho, MB made the most of the C-class to last ~60K+ miles. That's good enough for their core buying clientele to be happy with the car. Most would sell the car before it starts falling apart.
Now that I have a good first hand knowledge and experience with the head, imho, I'm going to suggest to people to use valve/engine cleaners. At the worst, gag, seaform - gag.
Imho, the head sealing design was done very well. So, the head gasket, the block, the head surface, the pistons, and the cylinder walls are all fine. Imho, if the valve faces can be cleaned, and if a dual catch can system is done, then that saves a lot of time and money.
A dual catch system can work. The boost for the M271 isn't much at all. People have been doing engines and systems with much greater boost for 30++ years. There's more to a catch can system design than buying parts and throwing them on the engine. There are also more than a dozen different types of catch cans. A catch can can cost $20 or over $500. I decided on one that costs ~$250+ retail. And, yes, I'll use two of them. Imho, do it right, or don't waste your time and money. :-)
Imho, a true dual catch can system is needed for a SC or a turbo system.
https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-...catch-can.html
Features:
40-micron bronze filter blocks oil from depositing in ventilation system
Special engineered inlet pattern "turbulates" air longer, allowing oil to condense
Internal baffle ensures no oil escapes during high-speed cornering
Replaceable single-unit filter is easy to maintain
100% billet anodized 6061 aluminum with laser etched finish
Safe to use in pressurized systems
10-06-2016, 08:16 PM
