Anyone in the Northern Virginia area with experience removing the dash?
I have read through the sticky on this subject and downloaded the various helpful DIY documents in there, so feel moderately prepared. But was hoping someone with experience in the area would be willing to chat with me about the process. Even if not in the area that would be okay too!
Thanks!
I'd be fearful of doing the stepper motor as well. However, if you have the time it seems doable. The dash will be in pieces which I find disconcerting. If you fail you can just put her back together and no harm done- as opposed to other repairs or mods where it is easy to damage vital engine components ..
While it did take forever none of it is really hard. If you have any questions I can try to remember but its been a few years.
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I would take this opportunity to add anything you wanted to do (PTS display, NAV, smog/multi-function sensor (Climatronic) etc. Why not?)
Moreover - it looks like time. As previously posted, not hard - just time. Please ensure you have a good quality set of SOFT tools (no marring plastic trim tools) and poly/zip lock bags and a Sharpie to label the hardware to part.
When in doubt, and I don't know your skill set or confidence level, but you plan to tackle it - so you will...just use low tack/painters masking tape (or tape rags/cloths) to protect things while you work. Even WIS shows this in various procedures, removing the headliner comes to mind - there are very specific areas MB states to cover when working and removing.
Watch this;
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I would take this opportunity to add anything you wanted to do (PTS display, NAV, smog/multi-function sensor (Climatronic) etc. Why not?)
Moreover - it looks like time. As previously posted, not hard - just time. Please ensure you have a good quality set of SOFT tools (no marring plastic trim tools) and poly/zip lock bags and a Sharpie to label the hardware to part.
When in doubt, and I don't know your skill set or confidence level, but you plan to tackle it - so you will...just use low tack/painters masking tape (or tape rags/cloths) to protect things while you work. Even WIS shows this in various procedures, removing the headliner comes to mind - there are very specific areas MB states to cover when working and removing.
The instructions provided on the W203 sticky (which I read through the full 28 pages of the thread) are awesome. However, I have found it can be extremely helpful once you have everything apart to have someone knowledgable you can reach out to if you are stuck.
Good call on the soft tools - I have had a few of those over the years but probably need some new ones. Yeah I probably won't tackle this job until early Spring when it warm enough I can work on it on my driveway at night without freezing my butt off and can just leave it half taken apart. I imagine it will take multiple days (doubt I will do it straight through). I don't think removing the headliner is part of the procedure - at least I hope not!
In the diagram below (C240) I need to replace the M2/16 (top left corner) which is up kind of high unfortunately.
Mercedes actually has a new part number for these linkages that is beefier plastic that shouldn't brake. At least I don't have a C320 that actually has TWO stepper motors for the defrost.
Dont make the same mistake, just replace all of them while you are at it. I had to take dash apart again ~2 years later when the links started to go
Factory instructions can be provided in case you want them
Last edited by cvx; Jan 28, 2017 at 04:27 AM.





It took me about 4h to open up the dash and another 4h to put everything back after the repair. As others have mentioned, change out all those linkages if they haven't already been replaced. This is a job you definitely do not want to do twice. The good news is that the car is still driveable (just be careful with the parking brake cable), even when everything is ripped apart. I spread the repair over several days. In terms of the sheer number of parts requiring removal, I think this job is only topped by the (similar) evaporator core job shown in that video. Yes, repairing a door lock module is less painful than this repair.
As for my 2 cents - document and group (use a bunch of numbered small bowls) the fasteners as you undo them. You'll be undoing 30+ (probably way more if you have to remove the airbox) screws, in 10 or so "groups". Many of them look similar, but will be different (slightly different lengths, some have washers etc.). This also makes it much easier to ensure you won't have to open up half the dash again because you missed one 5 steps back during re-assembly.
Also, a good professional-grade plastic pry tool is required when removing the gear shifter boot (ie the very first step). This thing is stuck in there real good. A credit card is nowhere near strong enough for this.
The other tool that is needed is a set of tamper-proof Torx, specifically that T35 for separating the centre console from the front of the dash ("page 11" of that PDF). All other fasteners were regular Torx, other than a couple of hex bolts in the centre console.
Last edited by slammer111; Jan 28, 2017 at 05:44 AM.



