- Mercedes-Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Change Your Oil
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Engine Guides
DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...wners_manuals:
So it also could reflect a design change in 2010.
Sadly the dealers are also going off of this incorrect documentation and they're overfilling these engines. When we bought our CPO'd 2008, the engine was overfilled, and I was even getting occasional "check engine oil level" warnings on the dashboard. I did suck out about 8.5 quarts out of it when I did the oil change. But it only needed 7.5 quarts of fresh oil to get it back to max again. Dealers blindly just dump 8.5 quarts in there because that's what the documentation is telling them. They don't even bother to check that it's overfilled afterwards.
Last edited by Pete7874; Jan 9, 2011 at 10:08 AM.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_damag...motor_with_oil
I came upon this article. I am a bit pissed as I do have a squeaking, I thought it might just be a belt, but I am afraid it is something more serious... And what's worse is that I don't have a leg to really stand on as far as proving the fault on the dealer... My enigne oil was brown and dirty, but no sludge (I dunno if synthetics jsut get this way) and I do remember seeing a bit of shiny material and thinking, oooh, kind of cool.
I did have a pretty bad engine misfire two months ago. Where the CEL was blinking and the engine was running terribly. To my knowledge and research the that the rods and pistons (if that makes sense) were out of sync. Luckily I turned off the car and restarted it and all was fine. But I wonder if this had anything to do with it...
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_damag...motor_with_oil
In our case, that 1 extra quart shouldn't really cause serious issues, hopefully, but who knows.
Engine oil turns brown and then eventually black with age. That's normal.
If you had a blinking CEL, then most likely there are some fault codes stored in the ECU that could help you diagnose what happened. Have the dealer read the codes when you're in for service.
I have a 2009 4MATIC, can't comment on the spec change for the 2010s/11s.
Before I condem MB on such an obbvious change, I'd like to see a few more empties with either drain plug or suctions with MB adaptor methods, with 7.5 out and 7.5 in, oil at top of cross hatched zone.
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Last edited by kevink2; Jan 9, 2011 at 05:23 PM.
I have a 2009 4MATIC, can't comment on the spec change for the 2010s/11s.
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I use the dipstick when I add in any case.
Also, recall our earlier discussions about the dipstick in the 4M - you pull it out after driving the car, its bone dry. There is some kind of venturi action going on in that pan that sucks that dipstick bone dry, and you have to re-insert it a second time to get a reading. As I recall, the people with rear wheel drive cars do not report the same thing, do this appears to be something else unique to the 4MATIC pan.
Last edited by nyca; Jan 9, 2011 at 05:45 PM.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_damag...motor_with_oil
I came upon this article. I am a bit pissed as I do have a squeaking, I thought it might just be a belt, but I am afraid it is something more serious... And what's worse is that I don't have a leg to really stand on as far as proving the fault on the dealer... My enigne oil was brown and dirty, but no sludge (I dunno if synthetics jsut get this way) and I do remember seeing a bit of shiny material and thinking, oooh, kind of cool.
I did have a pretty bad engine misfire two months ago. Where the CEL was blinking and the engine was running terribly. To my knowledge and research the that the rods and pistons (if that makes sense) were out of sync. Luckily I turned off the car and restarted it and all was fine. But I wonder if this had anything to do with it...
In the past, overfilling the oil past the midpoint on the stick resulted in a fast burnoff down to the midpoint plus forcing some out past the rear main seal which ended up on the garage floor.
Which is why the oil filler cap still has the warning about overfilling.
The V-6s seem to be different in that they can be filled to the max point on the stick and the level stays there until the next change.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Many moons ago, I showed a bio grad student friend in the next appartment, how to change the oil in his new Vega.... About a year or 2 later, that lesson empowered him to change the oil in his friend's Audi ... drain oil out, put new oil in. He politely refused to take any money, and did a final dipstick check, and noted the level seemed a bit too high ......
He got a call from ex-friend with audi later that day, and, you guessed it, the trans seized up because he had drained the gearbox, and overfilled the engine oil (not enough time to do any harm there).
I asked him if he would check the manuals, etc, and get back to me, and he said "I'll find out right now" and I could hear him walking across the shop floor to the tech at the drain area. (I know the shop layout)
He came back to phone, and he was right only on the 9.0Q, for the C63 V8.
The Tech told him that there was a change in the oil pan design for 2010 and 2011 4matics ... dropping capacity to 7.5 quarts. For 08 and 09, all but the C63 get 8.5 Q's.
As I said before, all MB oil capacity related documentation, all the MB web site info on capacities is true, as well as your Owner's Manual for your car.
Chill
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Last edited by kevink2; Jan 10, 2011 at 05:51 PM.
I did my change using the dipstick tube adapter from fluid evacuators. 8.5 qt came out. 7.5 qt went in and I was already at full on the dipstick. I'll be sure to watch it next time I do an oil change to see if I hadn't made a mistake last time.
But once again, I wanted to make a note on the fundamental difference between RWD and 4Matic. 4Matics have a larger trans/differential fluid capacity (not coincidentally by about 1 qt). This is because of the larger volume being taken up by the 4Matic mechanism. This mechanism encroaches on the engine oil pan area, and that's why 4Matic oil pan is about 1qt smaller than RWD. And to the best of my knowledge, this applies to all model years.
By the way, here's the response I received from MB USA when I asked them about the engine oil capacity of our 2008 C300 4matic:
Thank you for your recent email. We have researched your inquiry and you
are correct.
The correct capacity for this specific model and engine is 7.0 L or about
7.4 US quarts.
For informational purposes, oil measurements should be taken in a specific
way - engine hot, vehicle level, wait five minutes and then take
measurement.
We have also forwarded your information to the appropriate area in the
organization to check the documentation.
Mr. Xxxxx, we greatly appreciate the time you took to bring this
discrepancy to our attention.
Sincerely,
Susan C.
Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC
I asked him if he would check the manuals, etc, and get back to me, and he said "I'll find out right now" and I could hear him walking across the shop floor to the tech at the drain area. (I know the shop layout)
He came back to phone, and he was right only on the 9.0Q, for the C63 V8.
The Tech told him that there was a change in the oil pan design for 2010 and 2011 4matics ... dropping capacity to 7.5 quarts. For 08 and 09, all but the C63 get 8.5 Q's.
As I said before, all MB oil capacity related documentation, all the MB web site info on capacities is true, as well as your Owner's Manual for your car.
Chill
.
So are we supposed to fill it to near the "max" point or in between the two dots? I put 7.5 qts in and took out about 8.3. I had the first oil change at the dealer, so I don't know how much they put in. I would assume that they put in 8.5 meaning that I left about .2 or so quarts in the pan. I don't really think its that big of a deal, but I couldn't get anymore out. It would just keep slurping and nothing else would come through the tube. Should I have reinstalled the new oil filter before this occurred? My father told me to wait until its done and dump some new oil in the oil filter reservoir and then reinstall the oil filter. Was I not supposed to do that and that was a bad habit he passed on to me?
My oil reading after the engine was warm was right at the maximum point when I added 7.5 quarts.
As the car runs, the pcv pulls a vacuum in the crankase. The orings at the top of the dipstick will let the relatively thin air to pull slowly down the dip tube, all the way down, and allow a tiny rise of oil in the pan/crankcase.
Almost all other mfg's use the drain plug to empty oil. The dip tube is just long enough to guide the dipstick by the crankshaft, and end it ends above the oil level in the crankcase. The PCV has no tendency to dry off the dipstick at the level markings.
I have a 2009 4MATIC, can't comment on the spec change for the 2010s/11s.
what adapter did you use?
It would be better to have them supply a MB only upgrade vendor with lots of 10.
This was my 5th change. You know, why is the dipstick measuring end that pale red color - its so hard to see the oil line on it, couldn't they have made it white?






