Need tire/wheel education
I am in need of an education on this whole tire/wheel thing I guess. I took in my C350 for it's A0 service and was told that it needed new tires front and rear. Rears I can visually see that they are shot, but the fronts have more than plenty of tread on them. The dealer says that they are "cupping" because they can't be rotated which is causing the vibration that I had them look at. I thought it needed balancing. SO, when I go out to look for tires I find that they are dang expensive, and that none of them offer a tread life warranty because they are considered high performance. The underlying tone seems to be that since they are different sizes front to rear that is causing a lot of my issues and driving up the cost. My question to the dealer was couldn't I just get a new set of rear wheels the same size as the front and be good then? You would have thought I asked him to paint my car pink. So I guess my question is has anyone done this with any success? Can you really get rid of the larger rear wheel set in lieu of a standard front size set and been okay?
Thanks in advance for the information and education.
Matt
If not you might have a hard time putting the same size tires on all 4 rims
You don't want to stretch out a smaller width tire to fit a wider rim
I run the same size rims and tires on all 4, on my winter setup, and have had no issues, with handling, or the 4Matic setup
if they are all the same, your good to go....
Cheers
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
never buy any tires from dealership. They always over charge you on tires and tells you you need new tires every time you are there.
There are wear indicator cross strip in each vertical grove of the tires (it's like a small bump in the grove) those are your wear indicator for 40-50% of the tire tread. you really don't have to change the tires unless they're down to like some 10-20% or they have extreme camber wear or over or under inflation wear which cause them to have no tread left on the tires.
few conditions that would require immediate change:
1. sidewall bubble: means you have broke the wires that does the actual supporting of the tires which with some hard impact you might have a blow out from that bubble.
2. rubber cracking: means the rubber has lost its elasticity.

Rotate across the same axle to change the rolling direction every 6 to 8000 miles & you will minimise feathering & cupping & it's nasty side effects.

If anyone's looking for all-season tire with good tread wear rating and affordable. nothing beats Nexen N7000. Runs less than $100 each and performs pretty much on par with any all-season junk out there. actually only paid $85 each for 225/45/17 I slapped on my sister's CLK. AND Yes, I have experienced the above tires I mentioned. had the MXM4 on the 1.8T Beetle and had driven cars with Primacy. I think the MXM4 was also the tire came with the C350 which I replaced it with the C63 setup. (word of advise: don't buy PZERO. rear's gone in 10k)
If anyone's looking for all-season tire with good tread wear rating and affordable. nothing beats Nexen N7000. Runs less than $100 each and performs pretty much on par with any all-season junk out there. actually only paid $85 each for 225/45/17 I slapped on my sister's CLK. AND Yes, I have experienced the above tires I mentioned. had the MXM4 on the 1.8T Beetle and had driven cars with Primacy. I think the MXM4 was also the tire came with the C350 which I replaced it with the C63 setup. (word of advise: don't buy PZERO. rear's gone in 10k)







