So I had my car aligned, but....
To sum it up quickly, the reason I needed an alignment was because since the install, the car pulled left when the wheel was held straight, and the car drifted left whenever the wheel was let go of while driving on a flat/straight road. (Also, it required less effort to turn the wheel left after the install as well, while you could feel the effort/responsiveness when turning the wheel right).
Now I figured, since they're the dealership, and I called my SA (who is actually quite helpful) ahead of time to confirm that they would be able to perform the alignment on my car, making it clear that my car was lowered. He said the techs there gave him the green light.
Fast forward to the day of, and after I picked up the car, I noticed that it felt off. I basically drove it for the first night after picking it up, as the service department had closed, and I was honestly dead tired. But on my drive back, I noticed that the wheel is not centered. When I hold the wheel dead center, the car quickly pulls to the right. I find this to be the most concerning.
However, should I hold the wheel when it is turned 5 degrees to the left, my car drives straight. Should I release the wheel however (while driving on a straight flat road), the car STILL drifts towards the left. In addition to this, the car still requires much more effort to turn right, while it takes almost no effort at all to turn the car left, or rather, as I mentioned above, there is much more feedback when turning the car right than there is turning the car left. In fact, the wheel favors turning the car left at this point. Even when the car is parked and not in motion, it turns much more easily to the left than the right. So of course I addressed this with my SA and the dealer (and I mentioned it in the survey that came after which asked me to "rate" the service). Both my SA and the customer service rep are willing to work with me again to resolve the issue, but here's what I am asking. Is it worth going back and having them look at it again? Jim had mentioned on the phone that a fix for all the camber issues can be addressed with the addition of a few bolts, which would run me about $300, but seeing as there are several W204s that are lowered without this issue, I find it to be unnecessary. There's a reputable alignment shop called West End Alignment not to far from where I live back home actually. They do their work the old fashioned way but are apparently legendary in what they do and the outcomes they achieve. Should I just take it there and pay the normal cost for another alignment rather than pay more money at the dealership than I already did?
Honestly, I've had so much bad luck modding this car that if I could, I would just sell it and get a nice, reliable DD. I loved this car but now I'm constantly banging my head against the wall. Sigh. Inputs would be appreciated.
Also, I'm running stock 17" wheels. I'm afraid that if I get new wheels at this point, some bolt or hub ring will break and have me careening into the center divider on the 405. Maybe I should just go back to stock springs.
Edit: Forgot to mention. What makes this all worse is that I'm actually out of the country right now until August 6. T_T. Can't get it fixed until then.
Last edited by snarlingchicken; Jul 16, 2011 at 10:40 AM.
2nd, I would try an independent alignment shop first... I recently lower my c300 on H&R SS and am due for an alignment also.
I will be taking my C300 to my local BrakeCheck since they have the $99 lifetime alignment/tire balance. Make sure they have LASER Alignment and the ramp is the lower one..... The local BrakeCheck I go to deal with a lot of SLAMED 350Z so they know what they are doing.
Plus they will let you stand there and watch them do it and if for some reason can't do the alignment becuzz you need a toe bolt or something they will ask you what you would like to do. If you decide to not do it they will not charge you.
Hope that helps...
And the shop I'm looking at actually deals especially with track cars and whatnot, with the owner personally asking you what sort of set up you're looking for, (whether it be reduced tire wear, running canyon twisties, or playing around at the track). In addition to that, he has you sit in the car to get a measure of the weight that would offset the suspension as well. If you wanna yelp him or something, his reviews are top notch. Family run with old fashioned methods, but gets the job done. It's not like the 4 wheel laser alignment at the dealer did me any good :3
Edit: I counted 30 commas in my main post. Woo! Too many compound/compound-complex sentences. (or comma splices)
Last edited by snarlingchicken; Jul 16, 2011 at 10:39 AM.

EDIT. If everything is correct & the car still pulls then dialling on positive castor up to 2 degrees on the side of the pull will help. With the camber of US roads however, that would tend to mean dialing extra castor on the RHS to stop pulling right.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 16, 2011 at 10:46 AM.
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The dealership charged $130 but I had that $100 off service coupon so I ended up paying $30 for it. Although I did have to get service done too.

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 18, 2011 at 08:28 AM.
I'll make it clear with my SA/techs this time.
had the alignment checked several times, couldnt fixed that, wheel shops gave me all sorts of reasons like the tire pressure is uneven, psychological problem etc.
went to an MB associated tire shop, they said the c class came broken alignment from factory, robbed me on a set of new screws. after install, the car drives like a dream until today, when i think back the screws were certainly expensive but it sure fixed my problem
I have the same eibach springs with 5mm pads too
hope this experience helps
Last edited by zankok; Jul 20, 2011 at 06:13 AM.
according to the guy he said these are special screws design to solve this particular issue, when it came it has all that MB spare part packaging, took it out it looks just like normal screws with some flat face on the side
Last edited by zankok; Jul 21, 2011 at 03:16 AM.







Bolts cost $13 to $16 each at RMeuropean depending on whether you want Febi or genuine. They are a rip off outside the US.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 21, 2011 at 09:36 AM.


These bloody bolts cost $142 a pair in SA






