Hi all. I guess misery loves company....my 08 C300 left me stranded in a parking lot on 7/7, wouldn't start. I got it running after almost 2 hours of the car sitting - fluke I guess. Then on 7/12 I ran a few errands, the car was fine. On my final stop the car wouldn't start...this time luck was not on my side as I couldn't get it to start. Yesterday Mercedes Roadside had it towed to the dealer. Confirmed it's the ESL, $1K for part and labor. I just filed a complaint with the NHTSA to look into a recall. I'm sorry to all of you who have dealt with this issue. I'm bull**** this isn't a recall!!!

 

Hello new found friends...

• 2011 C350 Sport
• 72,000km
• Extended warranty

► Push Button
- No joy

► Insert key
- Tilt moves
- Steering unlocks (Steering doesn't lock at all, even with key removed and doors locked)
- Odometer lights up
- P on shifter lights up
- Shifter won't move
► Turn to pos 2
- Radio ON button activates flip-up screen and turns on Radio playing 'Tell Me Why' by Ideal
- Windows/Sun Roof don't work
► Turn to start
- No joy

Repeated dozens of times, wiggle key/shifter/steering wheel (not easy to do all three). Tried 2 keys both with brand new batteries.

Will call MBRoadside, see what happens.

Can you add everyone in this thread?

PS>
Ah yes, the last 5,000km of my '74 Torino's life required a hammer to the starter and a jerry-rigged starter wire by-pass... Sweet memories...

PPS> My 2000 Bimmer being the only car ever to not have any issues at all, and as scary and disappointing as this issue is, (scary in the sense that I wouldn't want to be stuck in the mountains with the kids when this happens), I still feel my 7th car, the C350 is my favorite car of all and I will buy the 2016 when it comes out...

EDIT:
ooo... found this:
Make : MERCEDES Model : C300 Year : 2008
Manufacturer : MERCEDES-BENZ USA, LLC.
Service Bulletin Number : 2008020003 Date of Bulletin : MAR 01, 2008
NHTSA Item Number : 10024635
Component : ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Summary :
MODEL C300 & C350, MODEL YEAR 2008 - REPLACE ELECTRONIC IGNITION SWITCH. *NJ

We need to extend this through 2011 and include the ELS...

 

Hi guys,

I have a 2008 c350 with about 105 000km now. My last service under motor-plan is due next week so I'm trying to see what they can get replaced but I have had this issue:

I will get in the car and when I try to start the car I will turn the key and the engine does seem to start as usual but sometimes (happened about 3/4 times in the last year) it sounds like it get's stuck and you will hear ggggrrrrrrrrrttt for a while then the car will turn off. Then I have to switch it on again then it's fine.

Is this a big issue? I know that if I take the car in Merc will say they didn't hear anything and can't fix it... but if this is an big issue I want them to get it sorted. I'll put this on the list of things to check so if something happens after a week or so out of motor-plan then MAYBE they will fix it for free but don't think so.

I only received 1 key with the car. The previous owner still has the other key. So is my issue the Starter or the EIS that has been discussed here?

 

Anyone have any updates on a Class action lawsuit or recall from MB?

Add me to the list.

2008 C300
90k miles

Going to see if my local MB repair guy can fix it before i take it to the dealer. He is normally 1/2 the price of the dealer and does great work.

 

Same thing with my car... 09' at about 75000 miles.. and just a month ago my headrest popped open and they said mechanical failure... $400 for that..

 

Best thing every one can do, besides sharing invoices and lucks getting the dealer to pay is to file a complaint for a recall at safercar dot gov with NHTSA.

 

I have the same thought i love my car but just feel quite difficult to maintain it. Too expensive.

 

This may be the strangest fix that I have ever seen. Yesterday my wife came home in her 2009 C300 (49,500 miles), parked the car in the garage and came in the house, leaving the keys on the console. Two hours later we were going out, I put the key in and nothing happened, no lights, no horn, no radio, nothing. The car didn't make a clicking sound or anything. Five years old original battery, figured it was a dead battery, though it checked out ok with a voltmeter. Picked up a new battery today, put it in and the exact same thing happened, (nothing). Could not get the car out of gear to have it flat bedded to the MB dealer. Read the owners manual on how to do that, got it out of gear, tried to start again, nothing!! As I sat there thinking how much this was going to cost at the dealers I put the key in again and tried to start it, still nothing.. When I removed the key I noticed in the key hole a reddish smear, looked at the end of the key and saw reddish smear, wiped it off and put the key in, turned it and the car started, everything works fine. As it turns out, the end of the key must have come in contact with an open tube of lipstick in my wife's purse and left a film on the end of it preventing it from making good contact. Decided to keep the new battery because it's only a matter of time before the original dies.
Sometimes the simplest things can cause the most frustration, next time your car doesn't start, check the key for anything that would prevent it from making good contact.

 

It looks like we have the same problem with my car or perhaps similar in nature. I parked the car the other night and will not start the following morning.

Upon inserting the key to the ignition, the car will crank but will not start. I got these all these messages on the dash: Front SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Left SRS Malfunction - Service Required, SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Cruise Control Inoperable, ABS and ESP Inoperative, Tire Pressure Monitor Inoperative, Cruise Control Inoperative.

Additionally, I have the interior lights out, Radio, GPS, etc. that didn't work, One particular problem I noticed, the OBDII diagnostic port has NO power (I tried 3 different units and all of them didn't work) before my mechanic tested it for power. Of course, there was none (see next paragraph)!

I decided to consult a good neighborhood mechanic I know and we tried all kinds of checks on different fuses - make sense since a lot of stuff don't have any power at all. ALL the fuses we checked (engine compartment and trunk) where found to be good. One particular part we tested is the 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' (PN 2045403550) next to the battery. It seemed one (1) terminal on this fuse box does not have power where there should be. According to my mechanic, power is distributed to the other fuse boxes (engine compartment, trunk and dashboard) from this part and then to multiple components and systems (but not on all systems are on the same terminal). The Starter is connected to its own terminal so when you try to start the car, the engine is cranking. The other terminal is fine (that explains power to door locks, etc.)

Also, according to my mechanic, under this 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' there are also built-in fuses (that are not supposed to be replaceable). In effect, MB wants you and me to replace the whole 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' assembly whenever it is bad.


Our tests on this part is continuing, so stay tune. This could be the answer to a lot of question where the engine would crank but will not start. I suggest you do your own testing on this part if you are experiencing the same issues as my car.


If anyone on this board has an internal circuit diagram on this 'Pre-Power Fuse Box', kindly please post it, as well as instructions on how to take it out and install the new one.


Good luck!!

 

Does any of our moderators have any schematic diagram on the small Fuse Box (PN 2045403550) that's next or on right front of the battery? If you trace the approx. 12" Positive (+) terminal cable it will go to this small fuse box (my mechanic calls it a pre-power fuse box). One terminal (with 10mm nut) on this box does not have (+) power. My mechanic is thinking of 'bridging' it temporarily to the (+) for testing purpose. I just want to make sure this will not cause any additional issues and if indeed this terminal should be 'hot' (or not) all the time. Thank you!!

 

Update on my above post. Today, my mechanic and I did additional testing on the pre fuse box (PN 2045403550). Without any schematic diagram available to us, we decided to pull the unit out and tests it properly with a voltmeter. Our tests confirmed our suspicion of an 'Open' circuit (to the terminal with the 10mm nut). To re-confirm the problem, we re-installed the pre fuse box unit (temporarily) and 'bridged' it to the (+) terminal and switched on the ignition (without starting the car) and all various faults (Front SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Left SRS Malfunction - Service Required, SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Cruise Control Inoperable, ABS and ESP Inoperative, Tire Pressure Monitor Inoperative, Cruise Control Inoperative)
I was having all went away. Lights, radio, GPS, other systems connected to that circuit, etc. were also back on.


Anyway, the part was ordered ($297 list) and be available tomorrow from the dealer.
I'll post another update once the new part is installed.

 

Those are fusible links rather than fuses. Replacement is the only way.

 

You're absolutely right Glyn. This unit is really a fusible link and designed not to be repaired but replaced. Opening/dismantling it alone to see the guts and tests was a task!! I just hope all the fault codes I have will completely disappear when the replacement is installed. I got my fingers crossed!!

 

This just happened to me in my driveway out of nowhere. Went to start the car and it wouldn't sense the key, tried it like 15 times. Ran and got the spare and it wouldn't recognize it either. Kept playing with the spare and got it to recognize once but I stupidly didn't start the car and it continued not working. I disconnected the battery for about an hour, reconnected it and continued to try it with the spare key. After about 20 times it seemed to catch up and the ignition locked and unlocked twice. Right away I took it for a 5 minute drive. Since then its been back to normal. Both keys work fine. Although I'm hopeful, I know this is a symptom for future failure and it's not nice feeling driving around knowing I may get stranded. Wonder how much this would cost at an independent shop.

 

Unless there was goo on the end of the keys or inside the ignition, it sounds as though the ESL is on its last legs. I am not sure whether an indy mechanic can fix this, since it still involves MB security. Perhaps one of the moderators here can address that. Glyn?


At any rate, I would get it fixed. A new ESL sounds like a definite "check". There's a YouTube video with a disassembled ESL and you can see and hear what's involved. Good luck.

 

Update! The pre fuse box was replaced with a new unit ordered from MB. Replacement just took about 30 minutes, it was easy so long as you dismount the battery to have some working room. The car started right up and everything was fine, all the fault codes went away also!! That was a big relief!!

If anyone is having to same problem as I was, testing the pre fuse box was really easy. Nothing to disconnect except taking out the top cover of the pre fuse box. Check for power (with a voltmeter) on the terminal with the 10mm nut while another person is cranking/starting the engine. If power is not present on the terminal with the 10mm nut, and some thumping/vibration is felt on the terminal (yes, you could feel it), the pre fuse box is defective. This was the info my mechanic got from the 'alldata' website on testing the pre fuse box. With the pre fuse box defective, you also lose power to some components like the radio, GPS, interior lights, power seats, etc.

 

Wonder if theres a way to sabotage the ELS or whatever, my car just got out of the shop 3 days ago

 

Looking for any info I can get as well. The key on my 99 c230 has decided to suddenly stop working and it's likely the EIS. I cannot afford a dealership repair, so I would like to repair/replace the EIS or bypass it. No sense in letting an otherwise perfectly good car go to waste.

 

I located two EIS repair services -

http://www.sinspeed.co.uk/mercedes-e...epair-service/

http://w203eis.blogspot.com/

One's in the UK, the other Russia. This seems like a great idea assuming the repair is solid and affordable. I haven't found a service in the US yet. Anyone else?

 

How can you be sure it's the EIS instead of the ESL? At any rate, if you decide to use one of the two EIS repair facilities in your links, let us know if they are legit and can actually fix the problem. Good luck.

 

2008 C300 97.5k mi

About a week ago I get in my car to go to work and everything (lights/radio/etc) turns on but no crank/no start... just click. After quick google search, it sounds like EIS failure $1k plus, awesome.

However, I go to jump it 30 min later and it starts right up. It starts/drives fine for the following week, then this morning I get the no crank/no start again.

I just took this thing in for Service B and misc repairs (~$1.25k @ stealership) less than a month ago and they didn't say ***** about the battery... It's a holiday wkend, so no way I can get it to a shop anytime soon. Will try and jump again shortly, but my main question is can I just change the battery on this or does it sound like EIS failure?

Thanks

 

It could be the EIS or the ESL. I'd say more likely the ESL since the problem is intermittent and typical of ESL failure. It's true that low voltage will prevent starting, but yours sounds more like a coincidence. Try shaking the steering wheel. If it starts, I bet the ESL is failing. Good luck and keep up posted.

 

I can't be sure, which is why I'm researching and posting here for more information.

I got a response from Sinspeed(UK) -

"We’re currently offering repairs for the EIS modules at just £115 - £250 (estimated) and our current turnaround time is just 3-5 working days. All repaired units are returned with our Lifetime warranty and will not require coding when fitting back to the vehicle."

They also ask the ESL and key be sent along. And a copy of the registration. I didn't specify about being in the US, so I don't know if that would be a problem. I know shipping would be expensive, but $190-415 doesn't sound too unreasonable.

I won't be doing this right now, but I'm keeping it in mind. FYI.

 

Thai happened to us 2 years ago and they said the battery needed to be replaced. Now it just happened again 3 days ago and they are wanting to charge me at first $1400 & some change and I told them I couldn't do that, so then they came back at $1040 and I still said no then they took another 10% off so now I'm down to $940 but I haven't even approved that. That's why I'm researching this problem? Should I have my svc mgr contact MBUSA? I have a loaner now for free so I feel I have time to negotiate . We are also out of warranty... Your thoughts?

 

Did the no start problem ever occur since the battery was replaced 2 years ago? If so, you could argue that the ESL EIS problem started 2 years ago and should be covered by the warranty. Alternatively, point out that the failure rate is unacceptably high as documented in this and other threads and that MBUSA should meet you half way on the repair cost.