Jun 15, 2015, 02:47 PM
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2008 C300 won't start
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport
Sorry, wrong choice of words "MB Tech". I didn't think you worked for MB. I meant knowledgeable about the technical side of MB cars (and other cars). Yes, I got a big break on the repair bill this time thanks to Autohus.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Likely CPS or no fuel pressure. Check fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the front fuel rail. s/b 3.8 bar or 55 psi.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
First things to check are CPS & fuel pressure. They are the most common causes of these cars cranking but not starting.
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Super Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 705
Likes: 55
From: LA LA Land
'08 C300 MM Pano
... That they only charged you for EIS part (for $323.40) Plus and labor (for $398.80) they actually did not replace you EIS, instead they replaced your ESL... Look at the notes...
The work order code ("job code" or whatever you want to call it) and I quote:
Originally Posted by Work Order
468070 STEERING LOCK, ELECTRIC REPLACE
Two lines below the ^job code^, you see the part number they ordered:
Originally Posted by Work Order
1 204-900-59-12 CONTROL UNIT EIS
Moving down further on the work order you see:
Originally Posted by Work Order
,,,,60125 3.40 PERFORM SHORT TEST WITH SDS, FOUND EZS CODE
,,,,A25464 -- PERFORM ESL TEST PER SDS - - NEEDS NEW STEERING LOCK - - ADVISED S/A - - ORDERED PART - - REPLACED DEFECTIVE STEERING STEERING LOCK - - PROGRAM
,,,, TO VEH WITH SDS - - ERASE ALL CODES AFTER REPAIR - -
,,,,A25464 -- PERFORM ESL TEST PER SDS - - NEEDS NEW STEERING LOCK - - ADVISED S/A - - ORDERED PART - - REPLACED DEFECTIVE STEERING STEERING LOCK - - PROGRAM
,,,, TO VEH WITH SDS - - ERASE ALL CODES AFTER REPAIR - -
However, when they replace the EIS, my understanding is that the have to also order the "Orange Key" which pretty much work the same way as a Flash Drive which carries the data to be reprogrammed on the owner's original keys.
If you go back to post 44 you’ll see that reidly posted a picture of his invoice which shows that when they replaced his EIS, and while the notes also show that they stated “Replaced Steering Column Lock Assembly” but when you look at his parts, you will see that in addition to listing the EIS, they also list the “ORANGE KEY”:
Originally Posted by reidly's Work Order
204-545-81-32 EIS STEERING
000-766-96-06-999 ORANGE KEY
000-766-96-06-999 ORANGE KEY
In fact this MIGHT create an issue for someone who previously posted in this thread because it sounded as if he was getting charged for a new key when in fact a new key may not need to be replaced.
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz c300
I am unhappily adding myself to this (rather extensive) list.
The car is 2008 c300 (sport ed.). <100k miles. We've been otherwise happy with it, and have had very few problems up until now.
This past Saturday I hopped in for a quick drive to the gym, turned the key, and...nothing. The more obvious electronic systems work fine (though I replaced the battery, as it was the original)--this includes the lights, command, etc. (don't recall checking the windows though).
The car was parked at my parent's house (small town in northern california, nearest dealership ~60 miles to the south). Mercedes towed it down that way this morning, though given that the car was cranked to the left, I'm not sure what condition my front bumper will be in post-two.
From what others are describing, I'm 90% sure that this is an ELS or EIS failure. We had to leave early in the AM to head back down to the South Bay in an extra car. The dealership was supposed to call us once they had received it...we called 10 minutes prior to the service dept closing to check the status, but of course they'd all gone home for the evening. I'll keep this updated as events transpire, but I'm really not looking forward to an expensive repair on something outside of regular wear and tear. May make a stop at the Lexus dealer over in Mtn. View next week.
The car is 2008 c300 (sport ed.). <100k miles. We've been otherwise happy with it, and have had very few problems up until now.
This past Saturday I hopped in for a quick drive to the gym, turned the key, and...nothing. The more obvious electronic systems work fine (though I replaced the battery, as it was the original)--this includes the lights, command, etc. (don't recall checking the windows though).
The car was parked at my parent's house (small town in northern california, nearest dealership ~60 miles to the south). Mercedes towed it down that way this morning, though given that the car was cranked to the left, I'm not sure what condition my front bumper will be in post-two.
From what others are describing, I'm 90% sure that this is an ELS or EIS failure. We had to leave early in the AM to head back down to the South Bay in an extra car. The dealership was supposed to call us once they had received it...we called 10 minutes prior to the service dept closing to check the status, but of course they'd all gone home for the evening. I'll keep this updated as events transpire, but I'm really not looking forward to an expensive repair on something outside of regular wear and tear. May make a stop at the Lexus dealer over in Mtn. View next week.
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport
I am unhappily adding myself to this (rather extensive) list.
The car is 2008 c300 (sport ed.). <100k miles. We've been otherwise happy with it, and have had very few problems up until now.
This past Saturday I hopped in for a quick drive to the gym, turned the key, and...nothing. The more obvious electronic systems work fine (though I replaced the battery, as it was the original)--this includes the lights, command, etc. (don't recall checking the windows though).
The car was parked at my parent's house (small town in northern california, nearest dealership ~60 miles to the south). Mercedes towed it down that way this morning, though given that the car was cranked to the left, I'm not sure what condition my front bumper will be in post-two.
From what others are describing, I'm 90% sure that this is an ELS or EIS failure. We had to leave early in the AM to head back down to the South Bay in an extra car. The dealership was supposed to call us once they had received it...we called 10 minutes prior to the service dept closing to check the status, but of course they'd all gone home for the evening. I'll keep this updated as events transpire, but I'm really not looking forward to an expensive repair on something outside of regular wear and tear. May make a stop at the Lexus dealer over in Mtn. View next week.
The car is 2008 c300 (sport ed.). <100k miles. We've been otherwise happy with it, and have had very few problems up until now.
This past Saturday I hopped in for a quick drive to the gym, turned the key, and...nothing. The more obvious electronic systems work fine (though I replaced the battery, as it was the original)--this includes the lights, command, etc. (don't recall checking the windows though).
The car was parked at my parent's house (small town in northern california, nearest dealership ~60 miles to the south). Mercedes towed it down that way this morning, though given that the car was cranked to the left, I'm not sure what condition my front bumper will be in post-two.
From what others are describing, I'm 90% sure that this is an ELS or EIS failure. We had to leave early in the AM to head back down to the South Bay in an extra car. The dealership was supposed to call us once they had received it...we called 10 minutes prior to the service dept closing to check the status, but of course they'd all gone home for the evening. I'll keep this updated as events transpire, but I'm really not looking forward to an expensive repair on something outside of regular wear and tear. May make a stop at the Lexus dealer over in Mtn. View next week.
Sorry to hear you may be the latest casualty of the ESL/EIS failure. The car fits the profile.
After I had mine repaired I noticed that the ESL unlocked with an audible and definitive motorized "check" sound that I hadn't noticed before, making me wonder whether it wasn't simply an ESL failure.
Other than dreading a transmission/transfer case failure, I'm enjoying driving the car and it has style.
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
w204
Is this EIS/ESL problem sympton?
The first time my C200 failed to start I noticed that there was no "whirring" sound when I inserted the key. I cranked the key to position 2 but no response, no indicator lights, nothing. Tried to jumpstart with a smaller car, initially no response but after 30 minutes it was OK to start. I thought the problem was the battery and that it took time for the smaller battery to re-charge my battery.
I had the battery replaced and the ignition worked seamlessly for a week. Then the problem reappeared.
1- The first time it happened, I inserted the key and there was that "whirring" sound. I put the key into position 2 and cranked it but no response. I put into position 0 and removed the key. Reinserted the key but this time no "whirring" sound. The car totally died, no cranking, no lights. I tried again 15 minutes later, and the engine started without a fuss.
2- It happened again 2 days later. I tried to crank, the engine does not start right away. This time, I didn't remove the key. I put the key into position 0 and then back to position 2. The engine started fine without having to wait 15 minutes
3- Now what I usually do is to crank for at least 4 seconds until the engine starts spinning. Usually the engine starts spinning around 3 seconds after I crank the key. If this does not work, I will put the key into position 0 then, without removing the key, I put it back to position 2 as I did in step 2. After 20 seconds at position 2, I will crank again and usually it starts OK.
4- When I'm turning off the engine, I will let it idling for a minute before killing it off. I notice this will make the cranking easier next time round.
My thought process leads me to believe this is more to do with the battery (although already replaced) than the EIS/ESL. If it is EIS/ESL problem, it shouldn't be able to start at all I believe?
Plus the delayed cranking response can be reasoned to be due to the inability of the battery to give the current boost right away during cranking . And that battery takes 3 seconds to start discharging smoothly. Current leakage at fuse box is another possibility.
I have sent for diagnostics and STAR diagnosed the problem as "Electric Steering Lock" fault. The mechanic quoted around $1000++ for the ESL (I'm out of warranty). I argued that the only problem the ESL had could be that it receives insufficient power from the battery. I said I want to monitor my car first as I don't think it's ESL problem. I hope I am right. I don't want to spend a huge sum of money on something that is not broken.
Did you guys experience the same symptoms as described?
I had the battery replaced and the ignition worked seamlessly for a week. Then the problem reappeared.
1- The first time it happened, I inserted the key and there was that "whirring" sound. I put the key into position 2 and cranked it but no response. I put into position 0 and removed the key. Reinserted the key but this time no "whirring" sound. The car totally died, no cranking, no lights. I tried again 15 minutes later, and the engine started without a fuss.
2- It happened again 2 days later. I tried to crank, the engine does not start right away. This time, I didn't remove the key. I put the key into position 0 and then back to position 2. The engine started fine without having to wait 15 minutes
3- Now what I usually do is to crank for at least 4 seconds until the engine starts spinning. Usually the engine starts spinning around 3 seconds after I crank the key. If this does not work, I will put the key into position 0 then, without removing the key, I put it back to position 2 as I did in step 2. After 20 seconds at position 2, I will crank again and usually it starts OK.
4- When I'm turning off the engine, I will let it idling for a minute before killing it off. I notice this will make the cranking easier next time round.
My thought process leads me to believe this is more to do with the battery (although already replaced) than the EIS/ESL. If it is EIS/ESL problem, it shouldn't be able to start at all I believe?
Plus the delayed cranking response can be reasoned to be due to the inability of the battery to give the current boost right away during cranking . And that battery takes 3 seconds to start discharging smoothly. Current leakage at fuse box is another possibility.
I have sent for diagnostics and STAR diagnosed the problem as "Electric Steering Lock" fault. The mechanic quoted around $1000++ for the ESL (I'm out of warranty). I argued that the only problem the ESL had could be that it receives insufficient power from the battery. I said I want to monitor my car first as I don't think it's ESL problem. I hope I am right. I don't want to spend a huge sum of money on something that is not broken.
Did you guys experience the same symptoms as described?
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport
The first time my C200 failed to start I noticed that there was no "whirring" sound when I inserted the key. I cranked the key to position 2 but no response, no indicator lights, nothing. Tried to jumpstart with a smaller car, initially no response but after 30 minutes it was OK to start. I thought the problem was the battery and that it took time for the smaller battery to re-charge my battery.
I had the battery replaced and the ignition worked seamlessly for a week. Then the problem reappeared.
1- The first time it happened, I inserted the key and there was that "whirring" sound. I put the key into position 2 and cranked it but no response. I put into position 0 and removed the key. Reinserted the key but this time no "whirring" sound. The car totally died, no cranking, no lights. I tried again 15 minutes later, and the engine started without a fuss.
2- It happened again 2 days later. I tried to crank, the engine does not start right away. This time, I didn't remove the key. I put the key into position 0 and then back to position 2. The engine started fine without having to wait 15 minutes
3- Now what I usually do is to crank for at least 4 seconds until the engine starts spinning. Usually the engine starts spinning around 3 seconds after I crank the key. If this does not work, I will put the key into position 0 then, without removing the key, I put it back to position 2 as I did in step 2. After 20 seconds at position 2, I will crank again and usually it starts OK.
4- When I'm turning off the engine, I will let it idling for a minute before killing it off. I notice this will make the cranking easier next time round.
My thought process leads me to believe this is more to do with the battery (although already replaced) than the EIS/ESL. If it is EIS/ESL problem, it shouldn't be able to start at all I believe?
Plus the delayed cranking response can be reasoned to be due to the inability of the battery to give the current boost right away during cranking . And that battery takes 3 seconds to start discharging smoothly. Current leakage at fuse box is another possibility.
I have sent for diagnostics and STAR diagnosed the problem as "Electric Steering Lock" fault. The mechanic quoted around $1000++ for the ESL (I'm out of warranty). I argued that the only problem the ESL had could be that it receives insufficient power from the battery. I said I want to monitor my car first as I don't think it's ESL problem. I hope I am right. I don't want to spend a huge sum of money on something that is not broken.
Did you guys experience the same symptoms as described?
I had the battery replaced and the ignition worked seamlessly for a week. Then the problem reappeared.
1- The first time it happened, I inserted the key and there was that "whirring" sound. I put the key into position 2 and cranked it but no response. I put into position 0 and removed the key. Reinserted the key but this time no "whirring" sound. The car totally died, no cranking, no lights. I tried again 15 minutes later, and the engine started without a fuss.
2- It happened again 2 days later. I tried to crank, the engine does not start right away. This time, I didn't remove the key. I put the key into position 0 and then back to position 2. The engine started fine without having to wait 15 minutes
3- Now what I usually do is to crank for at least 4 seconds until the engine starts spinning. Usually the engine starts spinning around 3 seconds after I crank the key. If this does not work, I will put the key into position 0 then, without removing the key, I put it back to position 2 as I did in step 2. After 20 seconds at position 2, I will crank again and usually it starts OK.
4- When I'm turning off the engine, I will let it idling for a minute before killing it off. I notice this will make the cranking easier next time round.
My thought process leads me to believe this is more to do with the battery (although already replaced) than the EIS/ESL. If it is EIS/ESL problem, it shouldn't be able to start at all I believe?
Plus the delayed cranking response can be reasoned to be due to the inability of the battery to give the current boost right away during cranking . And that battery takes 3 seconds to start discharging smoothly. Current leakage at fuse box is another possibility.
I have sent for diagnostics and STAR diagnosed the problem as "Electric Steering Lock" fault. The mechanic quoted around $1000++ for the ESL (I'm out of warranty). I argued that the only problem the ESL had could be that it receives insufficient power from the battery. I said I want to monitor my car first as I don't think it's ESL problem. I hope I am right. I don't want to spend a huge sum of money on something that is not broken.
Did you guys experience the same symptoms as described?
My car did the start/ no start routine a few times until it failed to start 20 times in a row. Then when it was towed to the mechanic it did start, then it didn't and when it started again they drove it straight to the dealer to fix the EIS/ESL, although it's possible it was just the ESL. Either way, it's a serious design flaw for a car with 60k miles.
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
w204
Sometimes, especially when faced with spurious mechanical/electrical events, we come up with the strangest theories to fit the facts. If the star diagnosed an ESL fault, that is probably it. Otherwise we will get to the point of making propitiatory sacrifices to appease the gods.
My car did the start/ no start routine a few times until it failed to start 20 times in a row. Then when it was towed to the mechanic it did start, then it didn't and when it started again they drove it straight to the dealer to fix the EIS/ESL, although it's possible it was just the ESL. Either way, it's a serious design flaw for a car with 60k miles.
My car did the start/ no start routine a few times until it failed to start 20 times in a row. Then when it was towed to the mechanic it did start, then it didn't and when it started again they drove it straight to the dealer to fix the EIS/ESL, although it's possible it was just the ESL. Either way, it's a serious design flaw for a car with 60k miles.
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport
This problem is a big letdown to an otherwise brilliant car. Nonetheless, I would prefer to keep the car for a long time. I'm wondering if MB has fixed this flaw in the new EIS/ESL parts or is it the same old design. I sure don't fancy forking out $1000 every few years on this. How long has it been since your car get a new EIS/ESL? Thanks
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Brea, CA
2009 C300
2009 C300 - bad ESL
Hi guys, I am currently experiencing the same issue.
Earlier this week my 2009 C300 with 104.5k miles got towed to a local dealer. They replaced what they diagnosed as a bad battery, and sent me on my way home with a working car. During their tests they jumped the car which fixed the ESL temporarily.
This morning the same issue just happened. Towed the car in again and it looks like it is the ESL, what I had originally told them to check for. I am now looking at $1k on top of the original cost to diagnose and replace the battery.
This type of quality issue on a Mercedes is really sad.
here is a vid of the issue:
Earlier this week my 2009 C300 with 104.5k miles got towed to a local dealer. They replaced what they diagnosed as a bad battery, and sent me on my way home with a working car. During their tests they jumped the car which fixed the ESL temporarily.
This morning the same issue just happened. Towed the car in again and it looks like it is the ESL, what I had originally told them to check for. I am now looking at $1k on top of the original cost to diagnose and replace the battery.
This type of quality issue on a Mercedes is really sad.
here is a vid of the issue:
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2008 mercedes benz c300
Ignition steering lock
My car is at the dealer as I type. It sucks!
Dealer is charging me $1300 to repair + charged me $147+tax for a diagnostic knowing exactly whats wrong with it. I'm sure they know about this and are taking their customers for fools.
If I decide not to repair there I would have to pay for the " complimentary " towing. $150.00 WHAT A JOKE!!
Not to forget they don't have any loaners. Wow!!
Did I mentioned that my car only has 55,026 miles lol.
As soon as I can drive it Im going to trade it for something other than benz.
Just because of their customer service. This should be a recall unless it is and they don't want to take responsibility. I should notify the news about this.
If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it very much.
Thanks to all.
Dealer is charging me $1300 to repair + charged me $147+tax for a diagnostic knowing exactly whats wrong with it. I'm sure they know about this and are taking their customers for fools.
If I decide not to repair there I would have to pay for the " complimentary " towing. $150.00 WHAT A JOKE!!
Not to forget they don't have any loaners. Wow!!
Did I mentioned that my car only has 55,026 miles lol.
As soon as I can drive it Im going to trade it for something other than benz.
Just because of their customer service. This should be a recall unless it is and they don't want to take responsibility. I should notify the news about this.
If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it very much.
Thanks to all.
Last edited by Tommy Boy; Jun 24, 2014 at 09:26 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2008 mercedes benz c300
Ignition steering lock
My car is at the dealer as I type. It sucks!
Dealer is charging me $1300 to repair + charged me $147+tax for a diagnostic knowing exactly whats wrong with it. I'm sure they know about this and are taking their customers for fools.
If I decide not to repair there I would have to pay for the " complimentary " towing. $150.00 WHAT A JOKE!!
Not to forget they don't have any loaners. Wow!!
Did I mentioned that my car only has 55,026 miles lol.
As soon as I can drive it Im going to trade it for something other than benz.
Just because of their customer service. This should be a recall unless it is and they don't want to take responsibility. I should notify the news about this.
If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it very much.
Thanks to all.
Dealer is charging me $1300 to repair + charged me $147+tax for a diagnostic knowing exactly whats wrong with it. I'm sure they know about this and are taking their customers for fools.
If I decide not to repair there I would have to pay for the " complimentary " towing. $150.00 WHAT A JOKE!!
Not to forget they don't have any loaners. Wow!!
Did I mentioned that my car only has 55,026 miles lol.
As soon as I can drive it Im going to trade it for something other than benz.
Just because of their customer service. This should be a recall unless it is and they don't want to take responsibility. I should notify the news about this.
If anyone can help me I'd appreciate it very much.
Thanks to all.
Last edited by Tommy Boy; Jun 24, 2014 at 09:26 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
2008 mercedes benz c300
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2008 C300 4Matic
My 2008 C300 4Matic will not start, I just says remove key. I am sure it is EIS. This should be a recall. There are too many failures with EIS to not warrant a recall. I will have my vehicle towed to more than likely MB of Georgetown. Can't wait to get that$900-2000 bill, if that's the case I will never purchase MB!
Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
2008 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic Sport
Sorry the "won't start" happened to you too. For the record, how many miles do you have on the car? Also note that an ESL failure mimics and EIS failure and vice-versa. If you YouTube either you will get a good idea of what's involved in the repair -- taking the steering wheel and half the dash apart.
