2009 C300 with Extended Warranty - what to fix?
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2009 C300 with Extended Warranty - what to fix?
Hey Guys! Glad to become a member :-)
I just bought a 2009 C300 Manual Transmission. The previous owner has extended warranty until August 2014 - which I paid $350 to transfer to my name.
I am having the command knob replaced under warranty since it doesn't respond to rotation.
Just wondering if there are any other items I should be looking into to take full advantage of this warranty before it expires? Any common failures?
Thanks in advance!
I just bought a 2009 C300 Manual Transmission. The previous owner has extended warranty until August 2014 - which I paid $350 to transfer to my name.
I am having the command knob replaced under warranty since it doesn't respond to rotation.
Just wondering if there are any other items I should be looking into to take full advantage of this warranty before it expires? Any common failures?
Thanks in advance!
#3
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Hey Guys! Glad to become a member :-)
I just bought a 2009 C300 Manual Transmission. The previous owner has extended warranty until August 2014 - which I paid $350 to transfer to my name.
I am having the command knob replaced under warranty since it doesn't respond to rotation.
Just wondering if there are any other items I should be looking into to take full advantage of this warranty before it expires? Any common failures?
Thanks in advance!
I just bought a 2009 C300 Manual Transmission. The previous owner has extended warranty until August 2014 - which I paid $350 to transfer to my name.
I am having the command knob replaced under warranty since it doesn't respond to rotation.
Just wondering if there are any other items I should be looking into to take full advantage of this warranty before it expires? Any common failures?
Thanks in advance!
1. EIS (Electronic Inition Switch) problem on some. Car wont start.
2. Melted rear tail light connector
3. Strut clunking noise
I'll post more if I remember but others might be able to chime in as well.
Last edited by aznmode; 04-24-2014 at 04:27 PM.
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Thanks for the reply! Yes, it will be going to dealer when I get command knob replaced. I don't think i have a transfer case..it's manual transmission Rear Wheel drive...
#5
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If you still have an OE gear shift knob, don't grab at it too hard. Mine came off in my hand and I got a great aftermarket one. BTW, if you got a stick because you really enjoy the driving experience/involvement, consider the Eibach antisway bar upgrade....
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
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![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#7
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A few things come to mind but I don't think you can get them fixed unless they fail. Except for maybe # 3. I recommend you call your dealer and ask for any TSB on your vin.
1. EIS (Electronic Inition Switch) problem on some. Car wont start.
2. Melted rear tail light connector
3. Strut clunking noise
I'll post more if I remember but others might be able to chime in as well.
1. EIS (Electronic Inition Switch) problem on some. Car wont start.
2. Melted rear tail light connector
3. Strut clunking noise
I'll post more if I remember but others might be able to chime in as well.
I'll check my bulb connectors. I don't hear any suspension noises.
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You are correct about the lack of TC. I have the same car, actually, thinking of selling it, but I can tell you it has been incredibly reliable. Had to replace a window regulator and door hinge. Cycle all the windows and check for smoothness and do the same with opening/closing doors. No clunks! You likely know about changing the brake fluid every two years...have them also renew the same fluid which is used for clutch actuation. Also, you are about due for a battery...have that checked.
If you still have an OE gear shift knob, don't grab at it too hard. Mine came off in my hand and I got a great aftermarket one. BTW, if you got a stick because you really enjoy the driving experience/involvement, consider the Eibach antisway bar upgrade....![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
If you still have an OE gear shift knob, don't grab at it too hard. Mine came off in my hand and I got a great aftermarket one. BTW, if you got a stick because you really enjoy the driving experience/involvement, consider the Eibach antisway bar upgrade....
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
My car has the "sport" button - it stiffens the dampers and increases responsiveness of steering and throttle. Seems to be just as good (if not better) than a swaybar for reducing bodyroll. It's quite the cool feature actually. With it off (comfort mode) body roll is quite pronounced.
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#10
Thanks! Checked all windows/doors last night - no noises or issues. Didn't know about the brake/clutch fluid, but glad I do now!
My car has the "sport" button - it stiffens the dampers and increases responsiveness of steering and throttle. Seems to be just as good (if not better) than a swaybar for reducing bodyroll. It's quite the cool feature actually. With it off (comfort mode) body roll is quite pronounced.
My car has the "sport" button - it stiffens the dampers and increases responsiveness of steering and throttle. Seems to be just as good (if not better) than a swaybar for reducing bodyroll. It's quite the cool feature actually. With it off (comfort mode) body roll is quite pronounced.
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A few things come to mind but I don't think you can get them fixed unless they fail. Except for maybe # 3. I recommend you call your dealer and ask for any TSB on your vin.
1. EIS (Electronic Inition Switch) problem on some. Car wont start.
2. Melted rear tail light connector
3. Strut clunking noise
I'll post more if I remember but others might be able to chime in as well.
1. EIS (Electronic Inition Switch) problem on some. Car wont start.
2. Melted rear tail light connector
3. Strut clunking noise
I'll post more if I remember but others might be able to chime in as well.
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#13
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For the EIS, the first symptom is the car won't start sometimes but it will after a 2nd attempt. So luckily you won't have this issue after august.
For the clunking noise, mine's a 2010 and their tech confirmed the noise and said there's a bulletin on it. But of course my SA never mentioned this when I brought it in before for another issue. You can usually hear it when you go over speed bumps at about 5mph or when I get off the drive way as I'm backing straight into the street.
Another one I had done but not sure if 2009 has this issue is when I'm reversing and then I go to "D", there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves forward after I press the accelerator.
There was something else I remembered earlier but damn it I can't remember now. I will post again when it comes back to me.
#14
Had an extended warranty with my 2004 Audi A4 and total $$ they paid was $10,000 for various repairs over 4 years. The car was bought for $13,000??!!
I have one for my Merc and after a year only problem I've had is a broken seat motor repair for $1100 for part and $450 labor. Paid for itself right there.
As for repairs to look for, the transmission. Any repair on the tranny is always expensive and labor intensive.
In my experience, the dealer will only fix something that throws a code or is physically broken, and they won't fight or advocate for you with the warranty company. A REPUTABLE Indy shop will be more willing to work with you. Read over the warranty contract and see what's covered. It never fails that as soon as the warranty expires is when something expensive breaks.
I have one for my Merc and after a year only problem I've had is a broken seat motor repair for $1100 for part and $450 labor. Paid for itself right there.
As for repairs to look for, the transmission. Any repair on the tranny is always expensive and labor intensive.
In my experience, the dealer will only fix something that throws a code or is physically broken, and they won't fight or advocate for you with the warranty company. A REPUTABLE Indy shop will be more willing to work with you. Read over the warranty contract and see what's covered. It never fails that as soon as the warranty expires is when something expensive breaks.
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Glad I could help ![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
For the EIS, the first symptom is the car won't start sometimes but it will after a 2nd attempt. So luckily you won't have this issue after august.
For the clunking noise, mine's a 2010 and their tech confirmed the noise and said there's a bulletin on it. But of course my SA never mentioned this when I brought it in before for another issue. You can usually hear it when you go over speed bumps at about 5mph or when I get off the drive way as I'm backing straight into the street.
Another one I had done but not sure if 2009 has this issue is when I'm reversing and then I go to "D", there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves forward after I press the accelerator.
There was something else I remembered earlier but damn it I can't remember now. I will post again when it comes back to me.
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
For the EIS, the first symptom is the car won't start sometimes but it will after a 2nd attempt. So luckily you won't have this issue after august.
For the clunking noise, mine's a 2010 and their tech confirmed the noise and said there's a bulletin on it. But of course my SA never mentioned this when I brought it in before for another issue. You can usually hear it when you go over speed bumps at about 5mph or when I get off the drive way as I'm backing straight into the street.
Another one I had done but not sure if 2009 has this issue is when I'm reversing and then I go to "D", there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves forward after I press the accelerator.
There was something else I remembered earlier but damn it I can't remember now. I will post again when it comes back to me.
It has always started fine thus far, so hopefully no EIS issue in future.
No strut noise either as far as I can tell.
Is the Reverse to Drive delay on a 4matic? Mine is manual and I don't have any delay going from R to 1st gear.
Thanks again!
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Doh forgot you have a manual. The issue is with automatics. Sorry about that.