More Cam Position issues, 2012 C250
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
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From: So Cal
2012 C250
More Cam Position issues, 2012 C250
Hey everybody, my issue is very similar, and i have experience already with the Cam Adjusters. I replaced the intake one about 18 months ago myself. Now it looks like it, or both have gone bad again. but I'm perplexed, maybe just due to the timing of things.
First the battery was not holding a full charge when we returned from vacation, only 10.4v so I changed it out. A week later it starts cranking for about 4-5 seconds before it would start, then the cam position sensor bank 1 code pops up. so I buy a new sensor, and the magnetic sensor that mounts to the from of the engine in front of the intake cam, and replace them both, and do an oil change at the same time. I always use Mobil 1 0-40 with a new Mahle filter.
This time the oil filter O-ring at the very tip of the filter holder seemed a bit large in diameter, but I put it on because it's what it came with. when I went to screw the filter housing back together, there was some resistance, then it "popped" in. I took it back out and put it back in again, but no real resistance now. So I go to start the car, and not only does it still crank over for a long time, now I have the timing chain slapping noise again; and it's bad.
Was it already going bad? I don't know. A question I have is, is there anything in the oil filter housing (on the engine side, not the filter side) that the larger O-ring could have pushed in causing oil not to get to the top side of the engine at start up causing this, or is the timing just such that it all seems related?
Now I'm waiting for the new Variable Valve Timing Phasers to arrive so i can replace them again. ugh.......
any insight would be helpful before I tear this thing apart again.
First the battery was not holding a full charge when we returned from vacation, only 10.4v so I changed it out. A week later it starts cranking for about 4-5 seconds before it would start, then the cam position sensor bank 1 code pops up. so I buy a new sensor, and the magnetic sensor that mounts to the from of the engine in front of the intake cam, and replace them both, and do an oil change at the same time. I always use Mobil 1 0-40 with a new Mahle filter.
This time the oil filter O-ring at the very tip of the filter holder seemed a bit large in diameter, but I put it on because it's what it came with. when I went to screw the filter housing back together, there was some resistance, then it "popped" in. I took it back out and put it back in again, but no real resistance now. So I go to start the car, and not only does it still crank over for a long time, now I have the timing chain slapping noise again; and it's bad.
Was it already going bad? I don't know. A question I have is, is there anything in the oil filter housing (on the engine side, not the filter side) that the larger O-ring could have pushed in causing oil not to get to the top side of the engine at start up causing this, or is the timing just such that it all seems related?
Now I'm waiting for the new Variable Valve Timing Phasers to arrive so i can replace them again. ugh.......
any insight would be helpful before I tear this thing apart again.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
Update:
took off the valve cover and loosened up the Valve timing oil control valves, broke the tip off one of course, only a $140 **** up, then i removed the alternator, and then the timing chain tensioner. here's the issue, when i removed the tensioner, it completely came apart. the metal spring sleeve that covers the "key" with the teeth on it and the key were missing. assuming they dropped down below the crank shaft gear.
question is whether or not that area is separate from the crank case, or is it open down there? can i fish the parts out with a magnet, or are the parts now down in the oil pan?
sooo frustrating..
took off the valve cover and loosened up the Valve timing oil control valves, broke the tip off one of course, only a $140 **** up, then i removed the alternator, and then the timing chain tensioner. here's the issue, when i removed the tensioner, it completely came apart. the metal spring sleeve that covers the "key" with the teeth on it and the key were missing. assuming they dropped down below the crank shaft gear.
question is whether or not that area is separate from the crank case, or is it open down there? can i fish the parts out with a magnet, or are the parts now down in the oil pan?
sooo frustrating..
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
It all goes to the oil pan. You may be able to put a small magnet in through the drain plug and retrieve them, haven't had to on this engine but I did that with some valve spring keepers into an S2000 engine once.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
MBWorld Fanatic!
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
How did the coat hanger/magnet work out? Your pieces might be out of harms way, just sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. The parts stores sell an assortment of telescoping and flexible retrieval magnets for things just like this. I’ve used them for recovering things like screws dropped into the intake, etc.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
I got it all back together and it starts and sounds fine. But I'm getting a new ode that I didn't get before P0017 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation Bank 1 sensor B
can some one please point me in the right direction
an interesting note is that when I ear the code then start the engine, the code doesn't appear. Only shows up after I shut it off then restart the engine.
can some one please point me in the right direction
an interesting note is that when I ear the code then start the engine, the code doesn't appear. Only shows up after I shut it off then restart the engine.
Last edited by Mikephinney; Aug 21, 2021 at 03:33 PM.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
I got it all back together and it starts and sounds fine. But I'm getting a new ode that I didn't get before P0017 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation Bank 1 sensor B
can some one please point me in the right direction
an interesting note is that when I ear the code then start the engine, the code doesn't appear. Only shows up after I shut it off then restart the engine.
can some one please point me in the right direction
an interesting note is that when I ear the code then start the engine, the code doesn't appear. Only shows up after I shut it off then restart the engine.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
P0017 is set when the cam timing does not correlate with the crankshaft position within the allowable tolerance. Is the CEL on? Most of those timing codes only turn on the CEL after 3 successive instances. One instance that does not repeat may not be an issue. Changing the cam position sensors to eliminate a bad sensor is easy, inexpensive, and probably not the cause. I usually recommend MB replacement parts, but if you decide to try this, Bosch sensors are fine and about ⅓ of the cost.
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
Go ahead and try the new sensors, but don’t be disappointed if results don’t change.
Do you know an indie mech that you trust that will discuss the situation?
Do you know an indie mech that you trust that will discuss the situation?
