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2014 c300. 108k mine miles. Was troubleshooting a mystery leak down the front of the engine yesterday when I decided to check the coolant. Noticed the reservoir coolant was no longer blue but a light brown/green. Is this discoloration normal for 8 year old coolant or is something going on here?
the wrong coolant was used once most likely. I would do a complete flush ( with just straight OEM coolant no cleaners) drain the system fill it and bleed. Drive it a week and then do it again. Don’t go to the dealer for that it’s always a half *** job. A few tools and most people could probably do it themselves if they are mechanically inclined.
If the area is pretty open and decent ventilation I wouldn’t worry about vapors. You have to do a flush/exchange with the engine hot( but off) and max heat on for the HVAC or the thermostats will close off most of the system from being drained. There’s a drain peakok for the radiator underneath on the drivers side. I get the engine hot, turn off the engine, open the drain, pressurize the system with a coolant pressurizer to force out coolant faster, then I vacuum fill the system. I seem to get a little over a gallon of coolant out each time to replace.
I wouldn't believe anything that suggests coolant is long life - same as for transmission, differential and transfer case fluid. Ignore what MB says - they've recanted on all of these long estimates at some point. I'd be changing coolant every 2-3 years depending on mileage. There's plenty of aftermarket ones but its hard to sometimes know what's really good. As suggested, coolant is one thing that best sourced from a dealer. It's not that expensive and you don't have to worry about it. Just204's advice is good. I'd follow that.
It's going to my German indy shop for a full flush today. I didn't want the hassle of DIYing this when it's this hot out and having to get rid of old coolant.
I wouldn't believe anything that suggests coolant is long life - same as for transmission, differential and transfer case fluid. Ignore what MB says - they've recanted on all of these long estimates at some point. I'd be changing coolant every 2-3 years depending on mileage. There's plenty of aftermarket ones but its hard to sometimes know what's really good. As suggested, coolant is one thing that best sourced from a dealer. It's not that expensive and you don't have to worry about it. Just204's advice is good. I'd follow that.
Their definition of lifetime is within warranty. After that they couldn’t care less
If changing coolant yourself, of even just between changes, consider adding a product like Redline 'Water Wetter'. There are claims of reduced saturation temp, but the big benefit is the elimination of metallurgic reaction between dissimilar metals. Also, any time you change coolant or top-off, use deionzed water, or even 'baby water'. They have heavy metals removed.
If changing coolant yourself, of even just between changes, consider adding a product like Redline 'Water Wetter'. There are claims of reduced saturation temp, but the big benefit is the elimination of metallurgic reaction between dissimilar metals. Also, any time you change coolant or top-off, use deionzed water, or even 'baby water'. They have heavy metals removed.
I used to use a similar product when the heads were aluminum, the blocks were iron, and the radiators were brass. That was just a big battery. But I haven't seen much of a need now that most components are aluminum and coolant is changed every 2 years.
Just curious, though. Why deionized water? It's going to be mixed with an electrolyte, so why not just distilled water?
08-03-2022, 01:13 PM
