what do i need and where is best place to buy transmission flush kit for 2011 c300
what it do:
when accelerating slowly the rpm bounces and i can feel the transmission shudder/studder or whatever its called
it seems to shift fine from gear to gear but when in gear it shudder
and its not slipping constantly. its more like intermittent slipping.or studder.
i dont know what type of transmission fluid is in it or when it was replaced last. it has 194k previous owner said car made love to freeway long time (90 mile daily round trip)
im planning to flush the transmission fluid including TQ
but i keep reading about some a89 type new transmission that needs a "new" style filter and i dont know how to tell what mine is
my vin is WDDGF8BB4BR169033
and where would be the cheapest place to get the flush kit
how hard is it to clean the valve assembly on this car?
i thought those were what was available. Thanks
is oem transmission fluid only one is is there something available from oreillys that is oem spec? Filter and fluid




As stated above you have a 2011 which has the later version. Your transmission uses Mercedes spec 236.15 fluid. Which is blue in color.
heres the link to Mercedes BEVO so you can look up your cars operating fluids: https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/236.15
I would only use fluids meeting the Mercedes spec. I dont buy Mercedes brand since its expensive, for example I bought Shell transmission fluid for mine.
This is the list of Mercedes approved transmission fluids for your car.
Maybe you should go on FCPEuro and check out the prices. They should have everything you need. Fill in your cars info and it should show all your options. Just be sure the listing says something like "for option code A89".
Above is all the parts you will need, minus the fluid. i bought my fluid off Amazon cheap but dont see ATF 134FE for sale on there. I bought all my other parts from IDParts because they are local and i can just pick up the parts. I also bought a new pan because mine is all rusted.
Gasket and bolts I bought Elring, got the CRP 12x17x1.5mm gasket for the transmission pan drain plug, went with an OEM filter,
May be worth checking out IDParts. Its mainly for diesel Mercedes vehicles but i find alot of items I need.
https://www.idparts.com/automatic-tr...00-p-3723.html
I also got my differential fluid from IDParts. For the front and rear diff i used a little less than 2 bottles total.
Last edited by TimC300; Apr 28, 2024 at 11:31 PM.
because hondas are extremely sensitive to non oem fluids.
i just flushed a 90s honda odyssey transmission that was shifting like a16 year old slamming gears. it blew out 2 engine mounts. but as soon as i put oem fluid(complete flush) it shifted like butter.
i just did transmission relearn and tried the lube guard that the youtube guy recommended.and it helped a little bit but i still get that rpm fluctuation while cruising.
feels like slippage during low(under 3000rpm) acceleration. but dont feel any weird shifting just cruising slippage.
i had transmissions slipping in honda v6 engines and its rather clear slippage. but i dont know what to make of this fluctuating pull while cruising.
could it be an ecm problem?
or bad fuse box.
i am getting some fuse box codes for front and rear fuse box circuits
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because hondas are extremely sensitive to non oem fluids.
i just flushed a 90s honda odyssey transmission that was shifting like a16 year old slamming gears. it blew out 2 engine mounts. but as soon as i put oem fluid(complete flush) it shifted like butter.
i just did transmission relearn and tried the lube guard that the youtube guy recommended.and it helped a little bit but i still get that rpm fluctuation while cruising.
feels like slippage during low(under 3000rpm) acceleration. but dont feel any weird shifting just cruising slippage.
i had transmissions slipping in honda v6 engines and its rather clear slippage. but i dont know what to make of this fluctuating pull while cruising.
could it be an ecm problem?
or bad fuse box.
i am getting some fuse box codes for front and rear fuse box circuits
im getting bunch of fuse box and what seems like random electrical codes.
no engine or trnsmission specific codes so far.
this car was driven on freeway daily. does that wear out the lock up solenoid faster than city driving?
i was reading the mhh or whatever that forum called and someone mentioned that this specific shudder while cruising and right after switching gear is my lock up disk being worn out and trying to engage constantly
but then someone also said that it could be my lockup solenoid faulty.
and then another person said they fixed this shudder by doing transmission update
and then people also said they had to replace transmissions for same shudder...
this is turning into another balance shaft issue that i had to fix on my old e350.
the more i read the more components seem to be involved in this. so far it could be EGR transmission, lock up clutch, lock up solenoid, programming, tcm,
Last edited by raverx3m; Apr 29, 2024 at 11:21 AM.
after transmission flush it seems like it had red fluid in it
and probably a ton of friction modifiers so that it ran while he was trying to sell this junk
after replacing fluid with blue it will not even engage in gear just spins in every gear
after transmission flush it seems like it had red fluid in it
and probably a ton of friction modifiers so that it ran while he was trying to sell this junk
after replacing fluid with blue it will not even engage in gear just spins in every gear
had alot of grey sludge in the pan
car was fluctuating rpm that i described in another thread
i did the fluid change its safe to assume he put some friction modifier to get it to run because when i test drove it i didnt feel anything
only about 20-30 minutes into driving when i got on the freeway i started feeling transmission slip while cruising on freeway
and the dude is being a lil beach and never responded to my messages after deal was done.
he claimed that mechanic said it needs spark plugs replaced...




Heres a sheet I made for when I get around to replacing my trans fluid: I dont have the 7g+ trans though.
im assuming the tq is dead.
i dont know how many patches were in that fluid from previous owner.
probably destroyed the clutches with all the additives and red atf instead of blue.
rpm should drop when in gear. mine goes up instead.
dude knew what he did because he stopped responding to me right after he sold the car.
but he left bunch of paperwork from the shop that did the work last (the shop that supposedly told him that transmission was good and it just needs the spark plugs) im gonna call the shop and see what they tell me




Odd that no check engine light is on. Did you scan the car for any fault codes?
bought it for daily driver for better mpg but now its curretly costing me around 1000 dollars per zero miles










