2011 C250 (W204) Alignment Issues
I've had my Mercedes for 6 months now with roughly 120,000kms. The car has been steering to the left since the day I've had it. Had the wheel alignment done, and the left steer didn't go away. Had a mechanic look at the car, suspensions and brakes - he reckons all the parts didn't seem to have any issues and suggested doing the alignment again.
Front tires are good, had the rear ones replace, did the alignment for the second time and car still steers to the left.
If I hold the wheel straight the car goes straight. As soon as I take my hands of, the wheel starts to turn slightly to the left and so does the car. FYI - car is in Australia and right hand drive.
Anyone experiencing similar issues?




Im thinking your issue could be as simple as worn control arm bushings. In my manual it shows how to check the alignment, and it says past a certain point it cannot be corrected and to just install new control arms.
Could also be aftermarket parts were installed at some point, struts. springs, control arms etc.




I've had my Mercedes for 6 months now with roughly 120,000kms. The car has been steering to the left since the day I've had it. Had the wheel alignment done, and the left steer didn't go away. Had a mechanic look at the car, suspensions and brakes - he reckons all the parts didn't seem to have any issues and suggested doing the alignment again.
Front tires are good, had the rear ones replace, did the alignment for the second time and car still steers to the left.
If I hold the wheel straight the car goes straight. As soon as I take my hands of, the wheel starts to turn slightly to the left and so does the car. FYI - car is in Australia and right hand drive.
Anyone experiencing similar issues?
-- strut mounts (bearing race + strut main bushing) replaced on both L/R sides. $60 USD x2
-- lower ball joints
-- forward control arm (caster)
The above will restaure some of the necessary ride qualities.
(At this point we've left out strut absorber, steering and swaybar links)




My car doesnt seem to go dead straight with my hands off the steering wheel. Its nothing crazy, its not like its swerving into the oncoming lane. Then again the roads arent the best around here.
As long as I keep my hand and hold the steering straight, the car goes straight. The moment I let it go, The steering starts to turn left and the car is on the left lane.




I never had my W204 in for an alignment even with replacing all 4 tires this past spring. The old tires looked like they were wearing great, even all around, no abnormal wear. The tread depth was even still good but the tires were cracking all around probably from age. The car seems to drive great, doesnt pull, steering wheel looks centered and straight. I recently had some noises and the car did seem to sway erratically which ended up being a bad sway bar link so replaced it.
If i did want an alignment i would probably take it to mercedes to look at. i think it would be worth it in the end since they can most likely tell you exactly what is wrong, if there is anything wrong. i watched this video awhile ago, and its where i got the idea to have Mercedes do an alignment if needed.
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As long as I keep my hand and hold the steering straight, the car goes straight. The moment I let it go, The steering starts to turn left and the car is on the left lane.
It's only the last step after changing worned out parts.
There's a collection of only a few parts involved.
There is very little wizard mystery with these cars. Go to an MB specialist that can work on these cars.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 28, 2024 at 07:48 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
….TODAYS MODELS “A FULL FRONT & REAR ‘4’ WHEEL ALIGNMENT” IS ONLY TOE “DIRECTIONAL” ADJUSTMENT.
FRONT CAMBER AND CASTER ALONG WITH REAR CAMBER THERE IS “ONE SETTING” - AT SHOWROOM HEIGHT.
No longer able to adjust tire contact angles spread load more evenly to resolve costly, premature excess edge wear brought about through high cambered roads with excess passenger side wear or both sides through extra passenger loads, lowering, fitting wide profile tires, sagged bushings or steering pull.
K-MAC saw the need and not only manufacture “BOLT-ON” kits (plus no need for time consuming control arm removal - or special tools). BUT ALSO - at same time replacing the front and rear HIGHEST WEARING SUSPENSION BUSHINGS !
You can purchase inaccurate offset bolts (Front only for W204 models) but they provide only one offset position. Minimal .3 of one degree.
K-MAC kits FIX IT RIGHT THE 1ST. TIME - UP TO 2 degrees Pos. or Neg. and unique patented design provides ultimate adjustment….
“Precise single wrench easily accessible. Direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD”.
SEE SPOILER
AUDI to VOLVO - Experience Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and costs) Since 1964 !
It's only the last step after changing worned out parts.
There's a collection of only a few parts involved.
There is very little wizard mystery with these cars. Go to an MB specialist that can work on these cars.
If I've learned anything chassis related with my Benz (granted C207 chassis built on W204 chassis), it is that a mere "visual" inspection of suspension components means very little. A few times I thought I was going crazy for the symptoms I felt vs my own inspections. I got 2nd opinions telling me, "looks fine". Went and replaced the arms I knew deep down needed replacing and EVERY time I did so, the symptom(s) went away.
Ball joints and bushings sometimes tell a different story when in your hand compared to when installed on the car.
Now, I am unfamiliar of what an additional chamber pin means - I gather this is simply replacing the existing pins with one that gives more adjustment tolerances. This is a $600 exercise.
Has anyone done this before? Happy to have this done, but I am worried that this does not fix the issue and it ends up becoming a costly trial/error exercise.
I have also attached the alignment reading from the previous al
ignments prior taking back to Mercedes.




Now, I am unfamiliar of what an additional chamber pin means - I gather this is simply replacing the existing pins with one that gives more adjustment tolerances. This is a $600 exercise.
Has anyone done this before? Happy to have this done, but I am worried that this does not fix the issue and it ends up becoming a costly trial/error exercise.
I have also attached the alignment reading from the previous al
ignments prior taking back to Mercedes.
Its not $600 camber pins you need! Look up.... :
- control arms,
- bushings,
- tie rods and
- ball joints







