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Well it's a common tactic... to offer you what sounds like an incredible discount off MSRP, and then have the F&I guy backdoor some or most of that incredible discount right back out by fluffing elements of the lease. The net result is the same...You don't get the actual discount you were expecting at all, but somehow it's still showing on the purchase agreement as 15% off MSRP or whatever the case may be.
That's why shady dealers hate when you come in with a lease calculator spread-sheet with the fixed numbers locked. You know the MF, the residual percentage, the dealer and acquisition fees. There's almost nothing they can pad. But that won't stop them from trying, by padding the MF, or decreasing the residual, or showing a cash cap cost reduction you weren't planning on paying.
I had a dealer match all of my numbers on the trade, the discount, the amount financed and the monthly payment. But he made those numbers work by simply charging me $2500 more than agreed for the car and then showing a $2500 cap cost reduction due from me at signing. That deal did not happen. In fact, I never bothered calling them back.
Gotta watch them like a hawk. Don't let the MB branding fool you. They might as well be selling Kias...all the same tactics, just geared to a better credit pool.
I hear ya, Mike...I agree it's BS. I'll do what I can to work my way around it, but at this point I'm 1.5 months from the car being delivered and I don't want to restart the process now and delay things even further (especially since the Steel Grey exterior I want isn't a custom order option, and I have no interest in settling for a car that's on the lot). If that means a 0.00004 markup, I'll deal with it I guess...but I'll continue to ***** and moan up until the day I drive off with the keys.
Question for the Waze users...I always run Waze when driving, no navi, just the alerts. If you have your iPhone connected via USB, do the Waze alerts play through the car speakers? I'm hoping so, because I'd like to be able to store my phone in the armrest connected via USB (I want to keep it hardwired so I can stream through Tidal with the best quality audio, while having Waze running in the background). I've seen a few decent looking mounts (ProClip, Kuda), but having to run the USB to them is going to make them look like absolute dog****.
I have a ProClip iPhone mount in a box waiting for the car to get back from the audio shop. In previous installs I've been able to route the cable so very little shows. You need the drop on mount with the integrated Lightning interface so you're not having to plug in a loose cable every time;
I have a ProClip iPhone mount in a box waiting for the car to get back from the audio shop. In previous installs I've been able to route the cable so very little shows. You need the drop on mount with the integrated Lightning interface so you're not having to plug in a loose cable every time;
That was the one I liked the most, for the very reason you mentioned (the integrated Lightning cable). Looks good enough and I also like how it just snaps on. I just couldn't figure out how I could get the USB cable to connect to it without much showing...especially since I don't believe there's a gap from the center consoles USB for the cord to come out, right? Let me know what you're able to achieve.
I'm also looking for a way to throw a radar detector in there without it looking too cheesy. Of course MB has to be a pain in the *** and have mirrors that won't support the rear view mirror mounts haha, so I'm trying to find some good alternatives. I want to get a V1 but I feel like between the unit itself, the iPhone dongle that has to be connected separately and then needing to have my phone visible to run the V1Driver app, it's going to crap up the beautiful interior.
I too (of course...apparently I'm your W205 spirit guide) have a V1 to the left of the rear view mirror with just enough cable coming from the headliner to connect it. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. It's about as clean as it gets unless you go stealth module.
I too (of course...apparently I'm your W205 spirit guide) have a V1 to the left of the rear view mirror with just enough cable coming from the headliner to connect it. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. It's about as clean as it gets unless you go stealth module.
That'd be awesome, thanks dude. I'm thinking I might go with a mirror tap...and I'll probably just have the place that does my tint install it for me (I'm lazy and paranoid to screw something up). Since the mirror mount won't work, I'll probably go with one of these to the left of the RVM.
That'd be awesome, thanks dude. I'm thinking I might go with a mirror tap...and I'll probably just have the place that does my tint install it for me (I'm lazy and paranoid to screw something up). Since the mirror mount won't work, I'll probably go with one of these to the left of the RVM.
Yeah I had my shop do the V1 for me as well. I just stuck it where I wanted it and they handled the rest. Something about the cars auto stop-start I've heard can cause the V1 to also stop and restart, as if the auto stop wasn't annoying enough as it is.
Yeah I had my shop do the V1 for me as well. I just stuck it where I wanted it and they handled the rest. Something about the cars auto stop-start I've heard can cause the V1 to also stop and restart, as if the auto stop wasn't annoying enough as it is.
Mine is direct wired and does not turn off when the car stops at a light
Wow, some dealers are offering "special" pre-sale prices. Most likely above MSRP? What do you guys think, will dealers try to capitalized on it. Could they be asking over MSRP?.
Please, if you are buying a C450 amg - DO NOT PAY more than you should, let's keep a dealer list and of those who ask more than MSRP and keep away from them. I already have a promise from one dealer at MSRP, am trying to get this dealer to commit to INVOICE than go from there.
Well it's a common tactic... to offer you what sounds like an incredible discount off MSRP, and then have the F&I guy backdoor some or most of that incredible discount right back out by fluffing elements of the lease. The net result is the same...You don't get the actual discount you were expecting at all, but somehow it's still showing on the purchase agreement as 15% off MSRP or whatever the case may be.
That's why shady dealers hate when you come in with a lease calculator spread-sheet with the fixed numbers locked. You know the MF, the residual percentage, the dealer and acquisition fees. There's almost nothing they can pad. But that won't stop them from trying, by padding the MF, or decreasing the residual, or showing a cash cap cost reduction you weren't planning on paying.
I had a dealer match all of my numbers on the trade, the discount, the amount financed and the monthly payment. But he made those numbers work by simply charging me $2500 more than agreed for the car and then showing a $2500 cap cost reduction due from me at signing. That deal did not happen. In fact, I never bothered calling them back.
Gotta watch them like a hawk. Don't let the MB branding fool you. They might as well be selling Kias...all the same tactics, just geared to a better credit pool.
That's exactly the reason why I went with purchasing rather than leasing. All the 15-20% off MSRP doesn't weigh out more than a 5% discount compared to a finance to buy deal. I received a approx. 7% off MSRP with a 2.8% finance over 48 mo with 8K down when I drove the car off the lot back in Sept 2015.
Thank god, I'll only be driving in Sport+ (good bye sweet MPG), so this won't be an issue for me.
I drove in S+ since mile 2....once you do, you won't want to drive it in any other mode. Even the individual mode doesn't cut it, even with the engine set to S+ in individual mode, it is still not as aggressive as the preset S+ mode. I only set up an individual mode to soften the suspension a bit when my wife is asleep in the car but I came to realize that it is much easier to just keep it in the preset S+ mode and tamper with the suspension via the button on the center console.
That's exactly the reason why I went with purchasing rather than leasing. All the 15-20% off MSRP doesn't weigh out more than a 5% discount compared to a finance to buy deal. I received a approx. 7% off MSRP with a 2.8% finance over 48 mo with 8K down when I drove the car off the lot back in Sept 2015.
Thanks, Mike. The sales people and the head of the dealership have been awesome, the finance guy was just a trailer park inbred who didn't have a clue what he was doing. Going to request to work with the other Finance person when I go in to take delivery, maybe I'll have better luck with her. I honestly think the guy I dealt with was just too stupid to have the conversation with.
If it comes down to it, I can always just refuse delivery if they don't take it off. If they won't, and I don't get over it I can just order a C43 instead haha...but I'm pretty much over it already. I also may just ask for a bunch of free stuff too (all weather mats, cargo mat, etc)
Dude, seriously, just wait for the C43...you're like 6 months away man! 6 months!!! I remember last April I walked into several MB dealers looking for a C400 cuz I was so excited MB decided to bring a TTV6 into the market and I am grateful beyond anything that there were no C400s available for sale back then because I was set on picking on up and was not willing to wait for the C450. So fortunate that they told me I would be unable to customize a C400 build because all custom C4xx builds would be a C450...
Now you, my friend, are in the same position as I was a year ago. Do not bite the bullet. Wait for the C43, I'm hearing wonders about the 9G MCT even the 2017 E63S is going to be equipped with it and I think the upgraded tranny is well worth the wait. Having driven the C450 since Sept I can honestly say that the tranny is the bottleneck in this cars performance, and the next would be the runflats but thats easily replaceable but a transmission is not. It's like a lung transplant. Just wait for the C43. You will not regret it. What is 6 months anyway??? get the C450 and in 6 months you're old news.
But a lease can be fluffed up by several factors leading to the consumer paying more than what he/she bargained for. I think a finance is more straight forward where the only possible fluff they can add in would be the interest rate.
For the other 98% of buyers who do not walk into a dealer with a spreadsheet, finance to buy is a more straightforward experience than leasing. Am I wrong?
However, main reason for me purchasing mine is because 1.) I think this TTV6 will be the thoroughbred for MB or a long time to come (think 2JZE-GTE for toyota and the N55 for BMW) 2.) I drive the C450 way way too little to lease I received the car Sept 28, 2015 and only have 3200 miles on it xD
Last edited by tmoneyC450amg; 04-14-2016 at 09:50 PM.
That's exactly the reason why I went with purchasing rather than leasing. All the 15-20% off MSRP doesn't weigh out more than a 5% discount compared to a finance to buy deal. I received a approx. 7% off MSRP with a 2.8% finance over 48 mo with 8K down when I drove the car off the lot back in Sept 2015.
I considered financing it, but the cost of ownership for me is $5,500+ cheaper for me over 3 years by leasing rather than financing it...and I don't have to assume any risk on the depreciation of the car (German cars have ****ty resale values and I'm a tad concerned about what the residual will be after the name change). The modeling assumes a 56% residual on 3 years/45k miles (from MBFS, which everyone knows is fluffed), either buying or leasing; the only modification I added was a risk premium on buying to adjust for the $13K of options in my car (I assumed they will only retain 25% of their value).
$65K MSRP, 13% off, $56K selling price -- these numbers were negotiated exclusive of if I buy or lease, the ball is still in my count on that decision. The best financing rate I can find is 2.5% over 60 months (I have outstanding credit but that's the best I've been able to find). Even with the markup on the MF, if I max out the 10 MSD's (roughly $8K deposited, which will be fully refunded after 3 years), my effective APR is 2.1% to lease it. I also can capitalize the prepaid maintenance cost and save there, too.
Because of this, leasing is a no brainer for me, really. When it comes to large purchases, I always side with the numbers I model out and whatever shields me from risk the best...it removes any emotion from the equation (I guess my career has ingrained that in me). I'll drive the **** out of it then dump it after 3 years and get something better.
Note: If I am able to get them to remove the 0.00004 MF markup, leasing jumps to being $6,900 more favorable than financing
Looks perfect there, I think I'll put mine in the same spot! Thanks for snapping that shot for me.
Question: Do you have the V1 Connection LE for your iPhone as well (or the Android one)? If so, where are you storing/mounting it? Was thinking about just throwing it in the sunglasses holder since I'll never leave a pair of shades in there anyway.
Straight finance deals are less complicated than lease deals for the average buyer, no question. But whether it's a lease or a purchase, the dealer is getting his money up front in a lump sum either way. In that respect the discount is the discount. No reason not to get 10% off MSRP whether leasing or buying.
If you're suggesting it's smarter to buy because it's too easy for a dealer to trick you if you're leasing, I'd say just get smarter about leasing. There are a couple more moving parts but it's not hard to lock down a lease and leave zero room for padding or fluffing. Just did one for 10% off on a special order car.
Dude, seriously, just wait for the C43...you're like 6 months away man! 6 months!!! I remember last April I walked into several MB dealers looking for a C400 cuz I was so excited MB decided to bring a TTV6 into the market and I am grateful beyond anything that there were no C400s available for sale back then because I was set on picking on up and was not willing to wait for the C450. So fortunate that they told me I would be unable to customize a C400 build because all custom C4xx builds would be a C450...
Now you, my friend, are in the same position as I was a year ago. Do not bite the bullet. Wait for the C43, I'm hearing wonders about the 9G MCT even the 2017 E63S is going to be equipped with it and I think the upgraded tranny is well worth the wait. Having driven the C450 since Sept I can honestly say that the tranny is the bottleneck in this cars performance, and the next would be the runflats but thats easily replaceable but a transmission is not. It's like a lung transplant. Just wait for the C43. You will not regret it. What is 6 months anyway??? get the C450 and in 6 months you're old news.
I've already waited 9 months to finally place the order on the C450, don't want to wait any longer. There are 2 other main factors for me sucking it up and not waiting: 1) the discount I got on the C450 which I won't be able to duplicate with an early order on the C43, 2) the C43 won't release until just before the weather turns to **** here in Ohio...who wants to have the honeymoon period with a fast car when there's snow on the ground? By the time spring would roll around I'd already have lost my infatuation with the car...I have a very short attention span, haha.
I'll lease for 36 months and dump it for a C43, an E43, or a C63S if it becomes available with AWD. This way I can enjoy the the C450 over the summer and spreads be 1/6th of the way through the lease. Maybe if I'm desperate in a couple of years I'll go in to the dealership and toy with the idea of getting out of this lease for another on one of the above, assuming the finances would somehow work out to be relatively flat. Waiting around sucks, especially when I'm already 9 months in to doing it...
All that said, I don't disagree with you. In a perfect world, I'd get a C43 at the end of May instead of the C450.
I've already waited 9 months to finally place the order on the C450, don't want to wait any longer. There are 2 other main factors for me sucking it up and not waiting: 1) the discount I got on the C450 which I won't be able to duplicate with an early order on the C43, 2) the C43 won't release until just before the weather turns to **** here in Ohio...who wants to have the honeymoon period with a fast car when there's snow on the ground? By the time spring would roll around I'd already have lost my infatuation with the car...I have a very short attention span, haha.
I'll lease for 36 months and dump it for a C43, an E43, or a C63S if it becomes available with AWD. This way I can enjoy the the C450 over the summer and spreads be 1/6th of the way through the lease. Maybe if I'm desperate in a couple of years I'll go in to the dealership and toy with the idea of getting out of this lease for another on one of the above, assuming the finances would somehow work out to be relatively flat. Waiting around sucks, especially when I'm already 9 months in to doing it...
All that said, I don't disagree with you. In a perfect world, I'd get a C43 at the end of May instead of the C450.
I don't think you will have any regrets getting the C450 instead of waiting for the C43. It drives fantastic, and the transmission so far for me has been very good and responsive with no complaints.
I drive mainly in S+ for the last 400 km's or so and this morning decided to adjust individual settings so that the engine/steering is in S+, but the suspension is in comfort. I find the runflats and suspension in S+ to be a little too harsh on the roads here.
Going this afternoon to a tire shop and see if I can swap out the runflats for a regular all season performance tire. I think this will help the ride a little. Also, the dealer said that I have to have 4/32" of tire tread left at lease return and from what I am reading about the P-Zero's is that they are only good for around 30,000 km's and then they are toast. Most shops around here want around 500 bucks a tire if I had to replace them, so I'm gonna swap them out now and put them back on at least return.
04-13-2016, 07:46 PM
