I have the check engine light on with the following trouble code: P001685 The position of the intake camshaft cylinder 1 bank 1 is implausible relative to the position of the crankshaft. There is a signal above the permissible limit value.

Vehicle info: C300 2015 4-matic, 60K miles

The car needs a bit extra time to start. I attached the audio of the engine starting. After it starts it makes a brief noise (roughly 4 seconds into the audio recording - maybe cam solenoid, I am not certain). I have not started checking the cam shaft and crank shaft position sensors yet. I would welcome any feedback from others that may have seen this issue. If there are any technical bulletins, or diagrams to share please post them

 

I have not received any responses to this message. Here is some additional info that will hopefully help others:

- I swapped the intake and exhaust (not replaced) camshaft position sensors (part number: 270-905-04-00)
- I swapped the intake and exhaust (not replaced) camshaft control solenoid (part number: 276-156-07-90)

After the swap, the DTC error code was still present on the intake (in other words, the problem did not move to the exhaust camshaft).

The most likely problem is the faulty Engine Timing Camshaft Sprocket - Mercedes-Benz part # 260-050-05-00 - also called camshaft adjuster, actuator, positioner
This appears to be a frequently reported problem which is disappointing at 60K miles (other are in the same range), considering the brand and the quality one would expect from Mercedes. - https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...er-issues.html
Request for help:
- Can anyone that has access to the service documentation post the procedure (pdf) for:
- removal of the cylinder head cover
- replacement of the Camshaft Sprocket
- replacement procedure for the timing chain tensioner

I am especially interested in the torque specifications for key portions of the job. I understand I will need special tool for the camshaft sprocket removal (if you have a part number for that, please share it).


- Car info:
- 2015 C300 4 Matic
- Model 205.049
- Engine: M274 920

 

That sounds pretty bad at start up. I have a 2017 C300 so is this going to happen to mine? I only have 22k miles on the car. Pretty disappointing that a Mercedes engine would only last 60k miles. Is it maybe be the infamous wrist pin issue?

 

@bpeter Sorry to hear about the situation. You mentioned the brand - the brand is tarnished. You mentioned quality - the quality that Mercedes produces is low to non-existent relative to other carmakers.

Please post your full VIN and one of us can post the documentation you requested.

 

@bpeter Here is some info to get you started. Read through these, post your full VIN, and reply with the additional docs you want/need. There are alot of them.

For future reference, you can find WIS/EPC by searching this site and on ebay.

edit: added camshaft and camshaft adjuster removal

 

Thank you!!! This will help a lot.

 

When I spoke with the dealer, they shared with me that they updated the part number for the sprocket replacement parts (that was the part number I listed in my message). I *assume* the updated versions at some point started getting installed by Mercedes as the default part in the newly manufactured vehicles (someone with more direct access to such info may be better suited to comment).

 

I just wanted to follow up in case this info helps anyone else.
I first replaced the intake camshaft sprocket and the timing chain tensioner, That took care of the noise coming form the front of the cylinder head area (you can listen to the audio I attached in my initial post).
However, the car still needed a bit extra time (turns) to start and the check engine light related to the intake camshaft position and crankshaft position remained on.
I took the engine apart one more time and replaced the intake camshaft (I also replaced the hydraulic lifters on the intake side while I had the camshaft out). After I reassembled the engine, changed the oil and filter, and ran the engine, the check engine light turned off.

 

hello!
The check engine light turned off by itself?

 

Yes, the error condition was no longer present after the repair and after the vehicle ran for a bit (maybe for a minute - can't remember), the check engine light turned off.

 

My plan is to have a family friend who is a mechanic do the work. My hope is to cut bill in half. I have mechanical however I don’t have many of the tools - and I worry I would get stuck because I don’t tear apart engines for a living. I’m a little intimidated to try it myself. I stick to software engineering.


if anyone has the service manual for my car that might help. My vin is on the dealer receipt above.

thanks in advance
I’m very disappointed in MB for not recalling this testing miss!

tony.

 

I’d like to compare to mine when I get into it

thanks

 

@Peter I am having similar issue with camshaft/crankshaft implausible, etc...and very interested in your solution. So first round only took care of rattle noises, only second round of engine apart not until you replaced the intake camshaft adjuster itself that finally took care of your CEL?

 

I’m looking for a list of parts and specialty tools I will require to do this job myself. I have a friend who was a master mechanic before he transitioned to high tech helping me. We have the typical tools but nothing Mercedes’ specific

I noticed in each of the pdfs referenced tools required. Vm an anyone confirm which are actually required??

I’ll post pictures and videos of all of it after I’m done so it can help the next guy
@bpeter do you have any pictures? Would you mind if I emailed or txt you directly before I get started? I’m located in Utah. Thank you. My txt number is 801.822.8065. Thanks.

 

just want to confirm that the part number you listed 260-050-05-00 is the updated sprocket?

also, i don't have any noise from the engine, just the code (cel) so im hoping just replacing the sprocket will resolve my issue. don't want to have to replace the camshaft if nothings wrong with it.

 

also, how necessary was the special tool 001589650900 (socket wrench) ?
im having a hard time finding someone with this in stock
ECS ETA is like 2 weeks out.

 

I recently had the same code. I replaced the camshaft sensors, but it ended up being the crank shaft sensor

 

what code did you have? just trying to make sense of why a camshaft code to go off due to a crank position sensor.

 

I sold my c63s, it’s now someone else’s problem

 

im pretty sure the issue is with the intake camshaft on this engine. seems like the issue is the timing ring on the front of the camshaft shifts like some of the other mercedes models. i've seen some others move them back into position with a punch. but not possible on the M274 cams. so looks like im going to stat by replacing the intake cam alone and see if that solves it. i really don't think it has anything to do with the cam sprocket or chain. at least not for my issue. i don't have any noises, just the long crank to start and code. seems like the camshaft part number for intake and exhaust is the same for this engine. @chassis thank you for confirming the intake camshaft part# 274-050-32-00 - i will replace just the camshaft and report back.

 

They're not the same part number for the exhaust and intake side. They're two different parts for the adjusters (or atleast they are on the E300 M274 engine. I would reach out to you local MB dealer to confirm part numbers).

This is the procedure:

#1. Rotate engine and put crank to 79° after top dead center (TDC) at cylinder 1. (You need to do this to make sure you dont break your HPFP. You will later move the crank to TDC after removing the HPFP).
#2. Remove fuel lines from the HPFP to the HP Fuel Rail.
#3. Remove HPFP (two torx screws. make sure you remove each screw evenly or else you run into the issue of breaking your fuel pump).
#4. Remove high pressure fuel rail and fuel injectors.
#5. I would remove spark plugs to make turning the crank easier. Remove ignition coils as well.
#6. Remove intercooler lines from from top of the engine (there are two lines here, one goes to the air charge cooler, you can see the connection where the oil fill cap is located).
#7. Remove wiring harness after unplugging everything.
#8. Remove valve cover/engine head cover.
#9. Put Cyl number 1 at TDC (this is super important).
#10. Buy . Put the tool onto the camshafts and confirm the tool sits properly and the Cyl #1 is at top dead center. Once that's all confirmed, bolt it down.
#11. Remove Timing chain tensioner.
#12. I would highly recommend replacing the left timing chain guide rail as it's easy to do and it's easily accessible at this point. You will just need a screw that can go into the chain guide pivot pin to pull it out, then hammer it back in once you put the new guide in.
#13. I would suggest someone help to hold the timing chain/zip tie to make sure there is always tension on it. Make sure you do not let it get any slack or a chance to remove it self from the bottom crank gear.
#14. The timing tool set has a T100 Camshaft Adjuster Socket. Slowly relieve the torque on the camshaft adjusters, making sure the timing tool is doing it's job and not moving the camshafts to either way. Go easy with this and don't put a lot of force to un tighten the two adjusters. It is #2 on this image:


#15. Once you remove the center control valves with the T100 socket, remove the adjusters one by one. Do not remove both at the same time.
#16. Put in new camshaft adjuster.
#17. Repeat on the other side for second camshaft adjuster.
#18. Once you've replaced both adjusters, tighten down the T100 valve controls but do not torque just yet (but tighten them down good enough where the adjusters will not move freely).
#19. Remove timing tool from camshafts.
#20. Rotate the crank 2 full rotations. The mark O|T (Top dead center mark) on the crank should be present after 2 full rotations. Place the timing tool back onto the camshafts and confirm that camshafts are timed properly with O|T on the crank.
#21. Put in new timing chain tensioner. Torque it to spec.
#22. Torque down the T100 valve controls in the camshaft adjusters.
#23. Remove timing tool kit. Retest TDC/timing by rotating the crank once again for 2 full rotations.
#24. If all checks out, reassemble everything back and pray to God if you believe in one.

Remember to move crank back to 79° after top dead center (TDC) at cylinder 1 when putting the high pressure fuel pump back in.

I've attached a bunch of workshop manuals in order (I hope they are in order, if not, just find them when you're going step by step). They are for my 2017 E300 M274 engine but I believe it's going to be the same torque specs for C300 M274's as well. If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me.

 

Hey @RebornS14, did changing out the camshaft fix your problem?

I have a 2018 C300 with the same issue I think. P0016 fault code, took it to the mechanic and he swapped out the inlet cam shaft adjuster but still had the delayed start. Im starting to think its the camshaft.

Also does anyone recommend any websites to get a new inlet camshaft or would you only buy directly from Mercedes?

 

Did you ever fix yours ? Was it both camshaft adjusters ?

 

Yes, managed to figure it out. The issue was with the intake camshaft. The little notch which indicates that the cam is top dead centre was literally a hair off to the right and that was throwing the engine timing way off. I read somewhere that the alloy that Merc used to make the camshafts was really weak/bad so its common for the flower bit of the cam shaft to move around. £2.5k later and opening up the engine block 3 times paired with a useless mechanic, finally got it fixed. I think the camshaft it self along with a timing belt adjuster from Merc cost me just over £400.

 

P0016-85

Bank 1 Intake camshaft pulse wheel had moved 2 teeth to the advanced position.

unfortunately my phone will not allow me to post the images I will post them on Instagram with the same user name as I have on here. Hope this helps clear up some confusion.