I noticed a few weeks ago it seemed as if my battery was low. Maybe I needed a new one or there was a problem with the alternator. Anyway, got a new battery and the alt. is fine. HERE IS THE PROBLEM ! Everytime I turn the car off, for some reason it loses all power and I have to jump it off to restart it. I have noticed that if I drive a long distance, then it will have a little more juice, and sometimes even start when I get back in. Unfortunatly, I don't drive long distances very often. So whenever I want to drive my car, I have to jump it. Whenever I am driving, I don't have any horsepower or electrical problems. When I get on the interstate, I can pass cars like normal. It's just like the first day I got it. I brough it to 2 MB dealerships (one was 1 hour away and the other was 2) and neither can find the problem. They have suggestions, but they aren't sure it will fix the problem. IF YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT SO EVER, PLEASE HELP !!!

Thanks,
Crapping in my pants

 

I would say try a new battery if you haven't already done that. Yours might not be holding charge due to age. I don't think it's the alternator because you would be having issues while the car is on as well.

 

I thought he said it was a new batt, unless you mean another new one because the new one he has it messed up? In any case, original poster did not indicate if it was C32 or C55, but here's a C32 TSB that MIGHT be related:

Date: November 1, 2004

Order No.: P-B-15.40/54

Supersedes:

Group: 15
SUBJECT:
All Model 203, 209, 211, 215, 220 and 230 with M112/113 Engine All Model Years

Alternator/Generator Voltage Regulator Malfunction

On the above model vehicles, if you encounter insufficient alternator/generator (G2) output, the voltage regulator, integral to G2 may be malfunctioning. The voltage regulator may be replaced as a separate part and the procedure below should be followed.
1. Check regulation voltage of generator (G2) as per WIS instructions:

- Model 203/209: AR15.40-P-5010P

- Model 211: AR15.40-P-5010I

- Model 215/220: AR15.40-P-5010I

- Model 230: AR15.40-P-5010R

2. If the generator fails the above test procedure, then remove the unit from the vehicle for repair on a work bench. Refer to WIS Group 15.40 for the correct instructions, depending on the model and body variant.


3. Remove the plastic cover from the rear of the generator, by first removing the two nuts from the studs (Figure 1, 1) and the one Phillips head screw (Figure 1, 2). Note which nut is removed from either stud.

4. Remove the voltage regulator (Figure 2, 1) from the generator, by removing the three Phillips head screws (Figure 2, 2 and 3).

5. Check the following prerequisites to ensure that only the regulator needs to be exchanged. If any of the below items fail, then the entire generator needs to be replaced and you may proceed to step 8.


a) There are no scorch marks or damage on the slip ring of the generator rotor (Figure 3, 1)

b) Carbon brush length of defective regulator at least 5 mm (Figure 4, 1)

c) Wear on the two brushes of the defective regulator is even (maximum 1 mm difference).

6. Install new voltage regulator and tighten Phillips head screws to:

a. (Figure 2, 2) = 2.0-2.4 Nm

b. (Figure 2, 3) = 1.0-1.4 Nm.

7. Install the plastic cover on the back of the generator and tighten the Phillips head screw (Figure 1, 2) to 2.2-2.6 Nm and the two nuts (Figure 1, 1) as follows:

a. Long stud 29.0-32.0 Nm

b. Short stud to 11.0-13.0 Nm.

8. Reinstall the repaired generator or the new generator in reverse order and verify proper operation as described in step 1.

Note: Due to the several versions of alternator/generators used in production on all the above models, please refer to EPC for the correct voltage regulator part number application. The correct part numbers may be found in group 15 and/or group 54 in EPC.

 

It is a C32 and I did buy a new battery and the same problem occurs. Thanks. I'll print that out and bring it back to the dealer. Is it a recall problem that they pay for, because my car is out of warranty.

 

hi, i had the exact same problem, so i feel your pain. it's bad to jump it the techs said so try to keep the car running for a while and drive it a lot, so hopefully you'll have enough power while it sits over night. went through two new batteries, and they died out. there is something wrong with your electrical system, i believe mine they said was due to my bixenons or xenon foglights wiring. sorry, i don't have the details, papers are home 500 miles away. bring it to the dealership tho, my electrical system only got worse over time.

 

OOps my bad. I'm sick and can't comprehend a damn thing today.

 

Did the problem ever get solved ? I did swap out my stock headlights for the bi-xenons, but that was a long time ago. Should I just get rid of the car if the problem is only going to get worse? Crap, I love my car and would hate to get rid of it!

 

Unknown, but I think it's just going to be a warranty item if they can track it down (meaning, I doubt they'll help you out if it's out of warranty). Someone else had a wiring harness issue - could be related to that with the xenon lights business mentioned buy the other poster?

 

yes the dealer fixed the problem. this happened a little while after i got bixenons as well. you need to flash your ecu to "xenon: present". the dealer fixed it and then i took the ecu to get reflashed independently, and everything worked again. now the car runs (and has run) fine without any electrical problems. hope the best for you. you should check it out with another dealer, my local dealer fixed it on first try.

 

kev did you have xenon before? I replaced my xenon with bi xenon and I got a battery low cell error last night. so I'm buying a new battery just wondered if going from xenon to bi xenon had anything to do with it..

 

hey trekman, no my car came with halogens, no xenons from factory. i then upgraded to oem bixenons 8000k and matching hid foglights. when did you get the bixenons? any other troubles than just straight low battery?

 

no thats it, I had the fogs lights on and the heater and heated seats. when I shut the fogs lights off the error went away so I'm thinking my battery is going south.

 

When I got the lights put in, I had to get the dealership to change the power outage in the computer so they would work correctly. Should I get them to chack that? When I got the lights and put them in, the would just flash on and then go off until I got the code changed in my ECU that I had them.