busa

HI.MY 02/C-32 IS LOOSING COOLANT BUT THERE IS NO LIK ,WHITE OR ANYKIND OF SMOKE,HALF A QUART ABOUT EVRY 150 .MLIS ANY ONE KNOWS WHAT TO CHECK BEFORE PRESURE TESTING?LOOSING COOLANTC-32

Eurocharged Rick

i would take the lower cover off of the bottom of the car so you can at least see where you are loosing it from...

busa

I Just Did Take The Bottom Cover Off Today,to Change The Motoroil Perhaps I Could See Anything Inthe Oil But Nothing It Was Nice Clean .checked Evrything No Sign Of Lik

Eurocharged Rick

then i would pressure test your system...it may be pushing it out the overflow valve...

Vomit

modded or stock?

CynCarvin32

The intercooler on the AMG kompressor cars is known to develop leaks and these leaks simply inject coolant into the engines intake runners and inject the coolant into the combustion chamber.

This happened to a C32 that a forum user and I use for road racing. The intercooler will be running well below its efficient levels and over time the leak will cause some fairly major issues.

As the intercooler leaks coolant, the coolant will repeatedly leak out and dry over the intercooler veins, leak and dry in the intake runners creating sizable restriction (blocking up to 60% of the pathway into the motor, and it will even dry on the tops of the valves.

Over time the coolant in the combustion chamber will cause the O2 sensors to foul and the catalytic converters will also slowly disintegrate and corrode.

Have your dealership or tech pull the intake manifolds off the vehicle and you will know very quickly if the intercooler is leaking. Everything will be covered with a nice thick brown/yellow mucus like substance and it is extremely difficult to clean off once it becomes dried and caked on.

This has happened to about 10-15 C32's that I know of and the number keeps climbing. Trouble is there is not updated version of the heat exchanger cores so it will likley just begin leaking in another 2-5 years. If your car is not under warranty the core costs about 1.3k and labor will run around 500-600 bucks (or so).

Good luck.

busa

evo pully kit and pover chip

BenzoAMGpower

x2 its happend to mine once, had to replace the whole s/c setup... i think its happening again!! it sucks that they cant just replace a simple part under the supercharger and that you have to leave your car at the dealership to sit as it waits for a whole new kompressor from AMG to come in.

Vomit

Check the nipple which is on the coolant resevoir towards the front of the car. There should be the nipple and a dummy hose which looks like it is running down to the radiator (it is not). It is very likely that your nipple is leaking (yuck!), especially if you have the old-style rubber one rather than the new-style silicone one. Just run your fingers around it and see if you feel any coolant residue. Even if you do not, I would contact Evo if you have the rubber one. They will send you the silicone one.

auxo

Vomit,

I just switched to the silicone one from Evo, but I am having a hard time to get the new silicone one to "seal" like the rubber one. I always get a few drops of coolant leak here and there The rubber cap(nipple), having thick walls sealed better than this new thin walled silicone one. If it is not too much trouble, would you mind taking a photo of your nipple (err, from your car) so I can get an idea how tight to clamp them without smashing the coolant resevoir? I would greatly appreciate it. And thanks in advance.

Vomit

Auxo:

I had the same problem with the silicone one. The problem is that the silicone one is alot thinner and harder than the rubber one, and does not seal as easily. I kept trying to tighten the hose clamp more with a Phillips screwdriver, and finally came to the conclusion that I could not tighten it enough with the screwdriver, and a socket/ratchet would be needed. I was able to turn the adjusting bolt on the clamp another 2 turns with the ratchet (actually, I could have turned it alot more, but I was afraid of breaking the plastic).

I would use a ratchet, and tighten the bolt one turn and then drive for a day. If it is still leaking, repeat the process. Hope this helps. If you still need pics, let me know, but shouldn't be necessary.

auxo

Vomit,

Thanks for the tip, I will try it. I think I was in the same shoes you were, I was just too afraid to "over tighten" the clamp. I will keep trying and will report back about it.

Thanks again!

UPSDOC

My C32 keept loosing coolant. It turned out to be the transmission lines inside the radiator were leaking. The dealer replaced the radiator, transmission and torque converter.

busa

THANKS FOR HEALPING ME OUT, SO IN THIS CASE I WOULD NEED TO REPLACE THE INTERCOOLER ONLY? ALSO I DISCONETED THE SUPERCHARGER AND I STILL LOOSING ANTIFRIZE.I GOT ONE OTHER PROBLEM THAT I TRYED TO FIX WHIT THE DEALER BUT NO LUCK YET AND THAT IS ,THE CAR JERKS UNDER MIDIUM HIGH ACCELERATION AROUND 55 MP. THAN AGAEN 90 MP. OR 120 MP ,BUT NOT ALWAYS .TWO DAYS AGO I COULD GO 167 MP. BUT MOST OF THE TIME CAN NOT PASS 120 MP.BECOUSE STARTS TO JERK LIKE THE IGNITION WOULD TURND OFF FOR A SECOND... IT SEEMS LIKE WHEN GEAR CHANGES FROM 2 TO 3 AND 3 TO 4TH IS HAPPENNING ,BUT DOS NOT DO IT IF I DISCONECT THE SUPRCHARGER.THIS PROBLEM IS THERE FOR THREE MONHS NOW.WE CHANGED AIR PUMP + RELAY,SUPERCHARGER PUMP ,TRANSMISSION,TRANSMISSIN CONTROL MODUL UNIT,LAST WEEK ARUND 100MP HAPPENED THE JERK BUT THAT TIME I LOST MOST OF THE CILINDERS AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON ,I HARDLY MADE IT HOME ABOUT 10 MILES LEFT ONLY I COULD GO MAX: THIRD GEAR MANUALY 35ML /HOUR.THAN IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE IT DIED ON ME ,I STARTED AND EVRYTHING WENT BACK TO NORMAL BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAED ON FOR TWO MORE DAYS AND IT JUST CLEARED ITSELFI WILL SEE THE DEALER ON 04-06-2006,MAYBE THE MECHANIK CAN BRING BACK THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CODE ,AND READ IT.

andya34

head gasket...

wawy

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...servoir-2.html

There's some very good info on C32s and cracked intercooler cores in the link I posted. When I had my C32 I had to actually show my dealership the pictures here before they would consider it as a possible cause for the disappearing coolant..

c32AMGOD

+1 on leaky intercooler. Changed to the code 3 intercooler (after some major fitment issues). My intake plenums were at least 50% clogged and I only drove with the leak for maybe a month. That **** builts up FAST so change your intercooler asap...if that is indeed your issue. Its a bit tough to say with your new descriptions.

I now realise that the code3 intercooler was possibly not the best idea due to the wrong type of core (air to air instead of air to liquid). I will probably see if I can just get my stock intercooler re-cored and I will reinstall it over winter.

430

What is with the revival of a 5 year old thread?

That being said I just had to replace my leaking IC. The coolant makes a mess quickly.

gkstar

I had that same experience myself. Due to the leak, the intercooler got clogged to the point where it could not cool efficiently and the S/C started shutting itself off from time to time due to the higher air intake temperature (AIT). I also noticed the typical manifold deposits.

My dealer changed the intercooler under warranty (at that time) and I could measure much lower AIT - confirming that old intercooler was the issue. A year or so later, unfortunately, I noticed coolant loss again. Went to the dealer to check if there is coolant contamination in the transmission fluid (I also had that problem earlier and the radiator was changed to address that). No contamination - so it is likely the intercooler again. Since I am not driving the car that often, I am now suspicious of hose/connection leak as intercooler should not go bad that quickly.