Porting, Polishing, and Cams project
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
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From: Houston
C63S
Yeah...I don't want to speak for him, but he is working on a resolution now.
I'm still trying to figure out a way to get more power from the car as well. Some have suggested that a vacuum pump might be the answer, so I PMed a few people who have experience with these to see if it would be a good choice. More info here http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
Now that I have seperated the PCV system, I can see how much oil is coming through. For some time, I only vented the two smalled PCV line off each valve cover. Now, I have all 3 vented and there is a good amount of oil in the system.
I'm going to measure the vacuum later today to see if I need this.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Ohio
...
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa, Ontario
C32 AMG - in Pewter
Jerry, thanks for posting the IAT graph. My carchip is to be delivered soon and I can compare my data with yours as I still get S/C cut off in some rare cases, likely due to high IAT. I had the I/C pump replaced 10 months ago, which addressed much more frequent S/C cut off.
I can now make the S/C cut off at will: after cruising on the highway for say 5 mins at 80 mph, I floor it to 110 mph and it reaches that speed in a few seconds with S/C working - great. Then I let the gas off and leave the car to go back to 80 on its own. Then I floor the gas again - S/C works for a split second and then goes off, followed by sluggish acceleration and mellow engine sound. The weather is not hot BTW, car is stock
I can now make the S/C cut off at will: after cruising on the highway for say 5 mins at 80 mph, I floor it to 110 mph and it reaches that speed in a few seconds with S/C working - great. Then I let the gas off and leave the car to go back to 80 on its own. Then I floor the gas again - S/C works for a split second and then goes off, followed by sluggish acceleration and mellow engine sound. The weather is not hot BTW, car is stock
Last edited by gkstar; Sep 23, 2007 at 11:13 AM.
Thread Starter
SPONSOR
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
Jerry, thanks for posting the IAT graph. My carchip is to be delivered soon and I can compare my data with yours as I still get S/C cut off in some rare cases, likely due to high IAT. I had the I/C pump replaced 10 months ago, which addressed much more frequent S/C cut off.
I can now make the S/C cut off at will: after cruising on the highway for say 5 mins at 80 mph, I floor it to 110 mph and it reaches that speed in a few seconds with S/C working - great. Then I let the gas off and leave the car to go back to 80 on its own. Then I floor the gas again - S/C works for a split second and then goes off, followed by sluggish acceleration and mellow engine sound. The weather is not hot BTW, car is stock
I can now make the S/C cut off at will: after cruising on the highway for say 5 mins at 80 mph, I floor it to 110 mph and it reaches that speed in a few seconds with S/C working - great. Then I let the gas off and leave the car to go back to 80 on its own. Then I floor the gas again - S/C works for a split second and then goes off, followed by sluggish acceleration and mellow engine sound. The weather is not hot BTW, car is stock
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,517
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From: Ohio
...
car is running stronger than EVER! very excited about the things that are in the works right now! i am prototyping a couple of new gadgets and they are working perfectly!
the car is no longer pulling massive amounts of timing and the IAT's are under control...the LET pulley is doing exactly what i wanted it to in the beginning...
i am taking the car to the track tomorrow night...i will post the results
the car will go back on the dyno on tuesday...i will post those results as well
the car is no longer pulling massive amounts of timing and the IAT's are under control...the LET pulley is doing exactly what i wanted it to in the beginning...
i am taking the car to the track tomorrow night...i will post the results
the car will go back on the dyno on tuesday...i will post those results as well
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,213
Likes: 8
LET C32 2002
car is running stronger than EVER! very excited about the things that are in the works right now! i am prototyping a couple of new gadgets and they are working perfectly!
the car is no longer pulling massive amounts of timing and the IAT's are under control...the LET pulley is doing exactly what i wanted it to in the beginning...
i am taking the car to the track tomorrow night...i will post the results
the car will go back on the dyno on tuesday...i will post those results as well
the car is no longer pulling massive amounts of timing and the IAT's are under control...the LET pulley is doing exactly what i wanted it to in the beginning...
i am taking the car to the track tomorrow night...i will post the results
the car will go back on the dyno on tuesday...i will post those results as well
Great keep us updated!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
Update:
New IC Reservoir installed!
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 11
From: PA
S600, GL450, GLC 43
New IC Reservoir installed!
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
Who made that tank for you?
What did you use for the lines?
And of course, how much of a pain in a__ was it to install?
Thanks in advance my friend
See yeah
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
I bought the tank from http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightasp.htm. It was only $149 and is the perfect tank for our car. There is no way you can make a custom tank for this price. Thanks goes out to 1fastc32 for the link to this product.
I have mine installed in the trunk (duh) and 1fastc32 has his installed in the battery compartment. I wanted to put mine in the trunk vs under the hood because it will be a good test after 1fastc32 and I test water temps.
I had CPT (Chicago Performance Tuning) install it and it wasn't that hard at all.
I had them take the inexpensive heat exchanger that I bought from http://www.lightningforceperformance...bra-p-319.html and weld a 90 degree fitting on it to match the more expensive units out there. See pic...
The lines ran on the passenger side of the car and using nice gromets and brackets, they were able to pull off a professional and clean install.
EDIT: The lines are 19mm (3/4 inch) soft braided Parker Hose. Check out their site. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...AKE/MARINE/GAS
The tank water was warm to the touch after 1.5 hours on the dyno with only fans cooling the HE. Try sticking your hand in the coolant water after 1.5 hours on the dyno!
I'm 100% sure everyone needs to do this mod. Check out the before and after IAT's. This is with the stock HE on the car too. I will reinstall the new HE later today and do more data logging.
Last edited by sales@eurocharged.com; Sep 28, 2007 at 10:03 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,517
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
...
I bought the tank from http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightasp.htm. It was only $149 and is the perfect tank for our car. There is no way you can make a custom tank for this price. Thanks goes out to 1fastc32 for the link to this product.
I have mine installed in the trunk (duh) and 1fastc32 has his installed in the battery compartment. I wanted to put mine in the trunk vs under the hood because it will be a good test after 1fastc32 and I test water temps.
I had CPT (Chicago Performance Tuning) install it and it wasn't that hard at all.
I had them take the inexpensive heat exchanger that I bought from http://www.lightningforceperformance...bra-p-319.html and weld a 90 degree fitting on it to match the more expensive units out there. See pic...
The lines ran on the passenger side of the car and using nice gromets and brackets, they were able to pull off a professional and clean install.
EDIT: The lines are 19mm (3/4 inch) soft braided Parker Hose. Check out their site. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...AKE/MARINE/GAS
The tank water was warm to the touch after 1.5 hours on the dyno with only fans cooling the HE. Try sticking your hand in the coolant water after 1.5 hours on the dyno!
I'm 100% sure everyone needs to do this mod. Check out the before and after IAT's. This is with the stock HE on the car too. I will reinstall the new HE later today and do more data logging.
I have mine installed in the trunk (duh) and 1fastc32 has his installed in the battery compartment. I wanted to put mine in the trunk vs under the hood because it will be a good test after 1fastc32 and I test water temps.
I had CPT (Chicago Performance Tuning) install it and it wasn't that hard at all.
I had them take the inexpensive heat exchanger that I bought from http://www.lightningforceperformance...bra-p-319.html and weld a 90 degree fitting on it to match the more expensive units out there. See pic...
The lines ran on the passenger side of the car and using nice gromets and brackets, they were able to pull off a professional and clean install.
EDIT: The lines are 19mm (3/4 inch) soft braided Parker Hose. Check out their site. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...AKE/MARINE/GAS
The tank water was warm to the touch after 1.5 hours on the dyno with only fans cooling the HE. Try sticking your hand in the coolant water after 1.5 hours on the dyno!
I'm 100% sure everyone needs to do this mod. Check out the before and after IAT's. This is with the stock HE on the car too. I will reinstall the new HE later today and do more data logging.
Thread Starter
SPONSOR
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 11
From: PA
S600, GL450, GLC 43
I bought the tank from http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightasp.htm. It was only $149 and is the perfect tank for our car. There is no way you can make a custom tank for this price. Thanks goes out to 1fastc32 for the link to this product.
I have mine installed in the trunk (duh) and 1fastc32 has his installed in the battery compartment. I wanted to put mine in the trunk vs under the hood because it will be a good test after 1fastc32 and I test water temps.
I had CPT (Chicago Performance Tuning) install it and it wasn't that hard at all.
I had them take the inexpensive heat exchanger that I bought from http://www.lightningforceperformance...bra-p-319.html and weld a 90 degree fitting on it to match the more expensive units out there. See pic...
The lines ran on the passenger side of the car and using nice gromets and brackets, they were able to pull off a professional and clean install.
EDIT: The lines are 19mm (3/4 inch) soft braided Parker Hose. Check out their site. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...AKE/MARINE/GAS
The tank water was warm to the touch after 1.5 hours on the dyno with only fans cooling the HE. Try sticking your hand in the coolant water after 1.5 hours on the dyno!
I'm 100% sure everyone needs to do this mod. Check out the before and after IAT's. This is with the stock HE on the car too. I will reinstall the new HE later today and do more data logging.
I have mine installed in the trunk (duh) and 1fastc32 has his installed in the battery compartment. I wanted to put mine in the trunk vs under the hood because it will be a good test after 1fastc32 and I test water temps.
I had CPT (Chicago Performance Tuning) install it and it wasn't that hard at all.
I had them take the inexpensive heat exchanger that I bought from http://www.lightningforceperformance...bra-p-319.html and weld a 90 degree fitting on it to match the more expensive units out there. See pic...
The lines ran on the passenger side of the car and using nice gromets and brackets, they were able to pull off a professional and clean install.
EDIT: The lines are 19mm (3/4 inch) soft braided Parker Hose. Check out their site. http://www.parker.com/EAD/displayCat...AKE/MARINE/GAS
The tank water was warm to the touch after 1.5 hours on the dyno with only fans cooling the HE. Try sticking your hand in the coolant water after 1.5 hours on the dyno!
I'm 100% sure everyone needs to do this mod. Check out the before and after IAT's. This is with the stock HE on the car too. I will reinstall the new HE later today and do more data logging.
You just gave me my WINTER project
And again, THANKS for ALL the help you have been on making choices for me to mod mine, wether you knew it or not
See yeah
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
Let me know about 2 weeks before you start and I'll gather a list of fittings and various parts that you will need. I can also take some pics of how they routed the hoses.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
MB
New IC Reservoir installed!
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
After 9 dyno pulls and over 1.5 hours on the dyno, the water was colder than ever before. During 20 minutes of data logging on the dyno, the car only got above 100°F during pulls and dropped back below 100 as soon as the pull was finished.
The new setup with the lines added 3.5 gallons of water to the IC system. The Johnson pump was moving the water perfectly.
We were on a dyno dynamics dyno and I managed to pull consistent 320ish whp everytime. The last time I was there I pulled 260whp.
Thread Starter
SPONSOR
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
Thanks man! I love helping in any way I can.
The hose is about $3 per foot and 30' will be needed. The tank itself is $149 and worth more $ than they are charging. The fittings will run about $50...maybe less if you spend time looking around.
I would guess that if you did the work yourself, you could get away with spending $580 or less on everything (HE, Tank, Hoses, Fittings, and misc parts).
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
Ok, I'll try to get you some pics later...remind me if I forget...I have a horrible memory.
The bottom line on the MB coolant tank was plugged.
The T fitting on the overflow line (above the radiator) was removed and a coupler was put in its place. The line that went from the T fitting to the IC lines was plugged.
The bottom line on the HE routes to the Johnson Pump.
The top line on the HE routes to the bottom fitting on the IC tank in the trunk.
The second line on the IC pump routes to the top fitting on the tank in the trunk.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
MB
Ok, I'll try to get you some pics later...remind me if I forget...I have a horrible memory.
The bottom line on the MB coolant tank was plugged.
The T fitting on the overflow line (above the radiator) was removed and a coupler was put in its place. The line that went from the T fitting to the IC lines was plugged.
The bottom line on the HE routes to the Johnson Pump.
The top line on the HE routes to the bottom fitting on the IC tank in the trunk.
The second line on the IC pump routes to the top fitting on the tank in the trunk.
The bottom line on the MB coolant tank was plugged.
The T fitting on the overflow line (above the radiator) was removed and a coupler was put in its place. The line that went from the T fitting to the IC lines was plugged.
The bottom line on the HE routes to the Johnson Pump.
The top line on the HE routes to the bottom fitting on the IC tank in the trunk.
The second line on the IC pump routes to the top fitting on the tank in the trunk.
Sorry if you have already mentioned this but which Johnson pump you have? Is it the the factory location still too?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 130
From: Houston
C63S
I'm using the CM30. CPT had mentioned that they thought the other Johnson pump moved the water too quickly. After watching the water flow in and out of the IC tank, it seems to be moving at the perfect flow rate.
It is in the stock location. I took the rubber boot off the old pump and stuck it around the Johnson pump. There was too much play and it wouldn't hold tight, so I got a 3 (od) inch rubber hose from Ace Hardware and stuck it over the pump. I had to work it to get it in the stock rubber boot, but it fits nice and tight. Just to be safe, I put a hose clamp over the pump and boot and secured it that way too.
I think this one will require a picture.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
MB
I'm using the CM30. CPT had mentioned that they thought the other Johnson pump moved the water too quickly. After watching the water flow in and out of the IC tank, it seems to be moving at the perfect flow rate.
It is in the stock location. I took the rubber boot off the old pump and stuck it around the Johnson pump. There was too much play and it wouldn't hold tight, so I got a 3 (od) inch rubber hose from Ace Hardware and stuck it over the pump. I had to work it to get it in the stock rubber boot, but it fits nice and tight. Just to be safe, I put a hose clamp over the pump and boot and secured it that way too.
I think this one will require a picture.
It is in the stock location. I took the rubber boot off the old pump and stuck it around the Johnson pump. There was too much play and it wouldn't hold tight, so I got a 3 (od) inch rubber hose from Ace Hardware and stuck it over the pump. I had to work it to get it in the stock rubber boot, but it fits nice and tight. Just to be safe, I put a hose clamp over the pump and boot and secured it that way too.
I think this one will require a picture.
