Porting, Polishing, and Cams project
Thanks for your sharing of information on this project. I too have a supercharged M112 in my SRT6 and was concerned about the IATs as I track the car occasionally.
Up to now the only modifications I've made to the car are brakes, brake fluid, rotors and tires. Everything else is cosmetic.
I have already obtained a Johnson CM30 pump and will probably do the same modification early next year before my first track outing.
Thanks again!
I got the CarChip and immediately jumped on the highway to see the IAT when S/C shuts off.
Very likely a cooling problem. Please, see attached picture. Half of the time I drove on residential streets not pushing the car too hard. The two peaks you see, where the IAT goes above 200F are when I accelerate from 60 to 120mph. This is where I lost the S/C for a minute or so. I posted the RMP graph too - strong correlation between the high RPMs and IAT.
It seems the IAT is always high - around 175F. Note the dip at the beginning of the graph, may not be important (?). The weather is cool and my car is stock. The I/C pump was replaced less than one year ago (way less than 10k miles driven since).
What do you think? Pump again, or something else now...
Last edited by gkstar; Sep 28, 2007 at 10:06 PM.
Very likely a cooling problem. Please, see attached picture. Half of the time I drove on residential streets not pushing the car too hard. The two peaks you see, where the IAT goes above 200F are when I accelerate from 60 to 120mph. This is where I lost the S/C for a minute or so.
In general though, I think the IAT is high - around 175F most of the time. Note the dip at the beginning of the graph, may not be important (?). The weather is cool and my car is stock. My I/C pump was replaced less than one year ago (way less than 10 miles driven since).
What do you think?

0mph to 110mph I don't even touch 200F.
I got the CarChip and immediately jumped on the highway to see the IAT when S/C shuts off.
Very likely a cooling problem. Please, see attached picture. Half of the time I drove on residential streets not pushing the car too hard. The two peaks you see, where the IAT goes above 200F are when I accelerate from 60 to 120mph. This is where I lost the S/C for a minute or so. I posted the RMP graph too - strong correlation between the high RPMs and IAT.
It seems the IAT is always high - around 175F. Note the dip at the beginning of the graph, may not be important (?). The weather is cool and my car is stock. The I/C pump was replaced less than one year ago (way less than 10k miles driven since).
What do you think? Pump again, or something else now...

Revision: I found a recent post from Jerry where he posts similar data - the Intake Manifold pressure on the graph is apparently is not the same as Boost.
Last edited by gkstar; Sep 30, 2007 at 03:09 PM.
Revision: I found a recent post from Jerry where he posts similar data - the Intake Manifold pressure on the graph is apparently is not the same as Boost.
Subract barometric / atmospheric pressure from the data and that will give you your boost level.
Your IAT's are way too high. Something is not right and it is most likely the pump.
The car is running good, but I still think it's down on power.
I'm still trying to figure out a way to get more power from the car as well. Some have suggested that a vacuum pump might be the answer, so I PMed a few people who have experience with these to see if it would be a good choice. More info here http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
Now that I have seperated the PCV system, I can see how much oil is coming through. For some time, I only vented the two smalled PCV line off each valve cover. Now, I have all 3 vented and there is a good amount of oil in the system.
I'm going to measure the vacuum later today to see if I need this.
I have since installed a PCV valve, and a check valve to get some vaccumm assisted evacuation. Some very good MB techs have recomended against venting my system as the "gunk" will build up much easier on the valvetrain and the oil will break down and be less effective due to the gases and such contaminating the oil. I ran the two small lines to a PCV valve and installed at the TB location for vacuum. The large line has a check valve with the flow heading away from the motor. When on boost the PCV allows some vacuum to pull gasses and such from the crankcase. The large line check valve remains closed wich allows cranckase vacuum to build. While running the oil fill cap is hard to remove due to vacuum. Under boost the PCV valve shuts to prevent boosting the crankcase. The large line check valve flows away from the motor so it acts as a vented system under boost, and a vacuum system under regular non boost driving.
The downside to this is that CC gases and such are heading back into the intake mani. What I've found though, is that the small L and R side lines seem to have a baffle design of some sort and they don't let much "crap" get by. The larger single line is the one that seems to dump the most "crap" and it is the line intended for evacuation under "load" conditions. Because this line is now vented and the motor only pulls from the small lines I still think I've reduced a good amount. Wow, what a rant, good coffe today. Lastly, the vented system eventually made my engine bay filthy and smelly. Even the K&N breather filter will let some mist by.....
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I have since installed a PCV valve, and a check valve to get some vaccumm assisted evacuation. Some very good MB techs have recomended against venting my system as the "gunk" will build up much easier on the valvetrain and the oil will break down and be less effective due to the gases and such contaminating the oil. I ran the two small lines to a PCV valve and installed at the TB location for vacuum. The large line has a check valve with the flow heading away from the motor. When on boost the PCV allows some vacuum to pull gasses and such from the crankcase. The large line check valve remains closed wich allows cranckase vacuum to build. While running the oil fill cap is hard to remove due to vacuum. Under boost the PCV valve shuts to prevent boosting the crankcase. The large line check valve flows away from the motor so it acts as a vented system under boost, and a vacuum system under regular non boost driving.
The downside to this is that CC gases and such are heading back into the intake mani. What I've found though, is that the small L and R side lines seem to have a baffle design of some sort and they don't let much "crap" get by. The larger single line is the one that seems to dump the most "crap" and it is the line intended for evacuation under "load" conditions. Because this line is now vented and the motor only pulls from the small lines I still think I've reduced a good amount. Wow, what a rant, good coffe today. Lastly, the vented system eventually made my engine bay filthy and smelly. Even the K&N breather filter will let some mist by.....
pics?
Right now, I have a catch can installed with the filter removed on top. I rigged up a vacuum line fitting and it is now under vacuum via the vacuum port on the S/C. I can't smell the crap in the cabin any longer, so I'm happy. All 3 lines feed into the catch can.
So, is your system open or closed now at the end? What about the T on the bottom of the S/C?
AMG-Jerry, you shouldn't have any smell in the cabin whatsoever. All those fumes and stuff end up going out the back of your exhuast or remain stuck to the interior of your combustion chambers. It's a double edge sword, prevent intake contamination, or keep your crankcase in check....however, the catch can should prevent much of the first.
I actually spent a couple weekends fabbing a bracket for the gzmotorsport vac pump. I was going to run it identical to the LS1 street system. My supercharger idler pully would have ran the pump using a small external cog belt. I was about an inch shy of clearance once the motor moves under load. That would have fixed both the intake contamination and the CC vacuum...oh well.
Needless to say, I still cant smell anything.






