Brakepad/pin fitting??
#1
Brakepad/pin fitting??
I have had my pads on the car for sometime now and everytime you stop in rev to forward the pads click. I took them off today and found where the pin goes into the pad the hole in the pads are much bigger the the pin. This is what is causing the movement of the pad only when stopping from rev to drive or the other way around. Can someone post a pic of a old pad so I can see if the pin fits tight in the pad?? Thanks I may need to call tirerack if they sent me the wrong pads (Akobone)!
#2
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2005 C55 AMG
I recently did a front brake job on my C55, and the pins going through the pads did fit rather snug. In fact, I had to tap two of them through w/ a little force. If yours are "hogged" out, it sounds like you may have a problem w/ the fitment of the Akebono's. I used MB factory replacements on mine, therefore the fit was perfect.
#3
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CLS, SLK, ETC
I recently did a front brake job on my C55, and the pins going through the pads did fit rather snug. In fact, I had to tap two of them through w/ a little force. If yours are "hogged" out, it sounds like you may have a problem w/ the fitment of the Akebono's. I used MB factory replacements on mine, therefore the fit was perfect.
I think mine is almost worn out..
#4
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2005 C55 AMG
Mine had the original factory pads on it, estimated by the dealer to have 5% remaining on them. The car had 57k miles on it at that time. I also had to replace the front rotors. I learned the previous owner was a bit abusive to the car regarding his braking techniques.
I paid $450 for two factory replacement front rotors, and a set of pads along w/ the wear indicator sensor. I can't imagine what I would've spent at the dealership if they had performed the labor. My service advisor was actually honest enough to tell me I'd be much better off doing the work myself if I felt I could perform it. The job was definitely different than any GM vehicle I've ever worked on, and it took me approximately 2 hours to complete the driver's side, and then only 45 minutes to complete the passenger side. (I don't work fast, and there was a learning curve involved...)
I believe the pad set was approximately $130 for the OE replacements. $160 each for the rotors. This was from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and using a friend's commercial account discount.
I paid $450 for two factory replacement front rotors, and a set of pads along w/ the wear indicator sensor. I can't imagine what I would've spent at the dealership if they had performed the labor. My service advisor was actually honest enough to tell me I'd be much better off doing the work myself if I felt I could perform it. The job was definitely different than any GM vehicle I've ever worked on, and it took me approximately 2 hours to complete the driver's side, and then only 45 minutes to complete the passenger side. (I don't work fast, and there was a learning curve involved...)
I believe the pad set was approximately $130 for the OE replacements. $160 each for the rotors. This was from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and using a friend's commercial account discount.
#5
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Wow.. OE pads are that expensive huh? Thank you for answering.
Looks like EBC has C55 pads..
Part number is DP4887R
Looks like EBC has C55 pads..
Part number is DP4887R
Last edited by Quicktwinturbo; 07-21-2008 at 05:55 AM.
#6
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EBC pads are REALLY nice IMHO. I recently swicthed from stockers after I chewed them up after a couple of open track days. Get the RED stuff for your car. Summit had them dropped shipped to me for around $100. Yellows will be a little too agressive, plus require more heat to work properly. You will like them my friend.
See yeah
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
PS: Reds are ceramic so low dust, plus they DON'T squeak
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#7
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Yea.. I've used EBC on my Rx7 before.. I loved it.. Plus, looks like they are chaeper than oem one...
..
How about yellow stuff??? Are they reliable? I was told that yellow stuff is better one but it produce a lots of dust.. lol
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How about yellow stuff??? Are they reliable? I was told that yellow stuff is better one but it produce a lots of dust.. lol
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#8
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I have had my pads on the car for sometime now and everytime you stop in rev to forward the pads click. I took them off today and found where the pin goes into the pad the hole in the pads are much bigger the the pin. This is what is causing the movement of the pad only when stopping from rev to drive or the other way around. Can someone post a pic of a old pad so I can see if the pin fits tight in the pad?? Thanks I may need to call tirerack if they sent me the wrong pads (Akobone)!
#9
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See yeah
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#10
The holes are much bigger then the pins on the c32. I looked at a pair of Bendix today at the store and they looked to be the same size as mine. The pads float up and down when hitting the brakes only from F & R. The pads are great. I think the metal clip on the top of the pads are not holding causing them to hit. Anyone got a pic from mercedes????
#11
#12
Yes just like a loud clapping sound after that they are good. The pads have a hook on the backs so I have to pull them off to re check the install. My pins go through the holes but those hooks have to do something.