Running BOTH Code III and LET Intakes!!!

Cost = $40
Install = 10 minutes
Of course I just threw some foam motorcycle filters on the end, and they aren't pretty. Standard 2.5" tubing fits right into the stock intake. I tested so many different intake setups, and have loads of road and dyno datalogging. I can tell you that this type of intake makes between no power and less power. The stock airboxes work very well, they were not the problem, the restriction at the TB was the issue...This is why we developed the intake we now sell. The specific setup pictured didn't stay on the car very long. The only reason this type of intake shows gains on other vehicles is because of the SL55 splitter, not because of the tubes, and those gains are almost completely at the top end, not throughout the powerband.
Brandon
Last edited by Code3 Performance; Sep 3, 2008 at 07:29 PM.
It's not really possible to mod it with a foam insert, as it's a true Y splitter (i.e. doesn't have a backing plate, therefore no piece to make a Code3 intake for) - the C32 is a T splitter with a backing plate, which is what made the Code3 intake possible in the first place...
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It's not really possible to mod it with a foam insert, as it's a true Y splitter (i.e. doesn't have a backing plate, therefore no piece to make a Code3 intake for) - the C32 is a T splitter with a backing plate, which is what made the Code3 intake possible in the first place...
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Cost = $40
Install = 10 minutes
Of course I just threw some foam motorcycle filters on the end, and they aren't pretty. Standard 2.5" tubing fits right into the stock intake. I tested so many different intake setups, and have loads of road and dyno datalogging. I can tell you that this type of intake makes between no power and less power. The stock airboxes work very well, they were not the problem, the restriction at the TB was the issue...This is why we developed the intake we now sell. The specific setup pictured didn't stay on the car very long. The only reason this type of intake shows gains on other vehicles is because of the SL55 splitter, not because of the tubes, and those gains are almost completely at the top end, not throughout the powerband.
Yes, it looks the same, except that mine is Black. If you say it makes no or LESS power, doesnt than conflict with your statement that the Code III intake (which I do use) makes MORE on the dyno. I believe that you state the increase is 8 RWHP? I can't imagine the elongated tubes cutting flow or intake??? I will have to take photo and share. The Code III alone should increase the power??? I dont get it Brandon???
a prototype part under development that he doesn't want us to see
i looked at my engine from that angle, i could see ancillary pullies (crank, waterpump etc)

I do feel based on the comments made by others that it definitely sounds like you are getting the best of both worlds...now if only to modify the rear area to force colder air into the C3P intake then it will be wow....maybe a plastic attachment going from C3P intake and up to the hood and maybe screen it

something like in this pic but up by the C3P intake.

I do feel based on the comments made by others that it definitely sounds like you are getting the best of both worlds...now if only to modify the rear area to force colder air into the C3P intake then it will be wow....maybe a plastic attachment going from C3P intake and up to the hood and maybe screen it

something like in this pic but up by the C3P intake.
Last edited by Newzchspy; Sep 4, 2008 at 11:24 AM.
The ram air effect is non-existent as I did a lot of research on this years ago. You have to be traveling at something like 180+mph to create enough pressure to have a true ram air effect. (It's been a long time but the mph was something pretty high I do remember that).
Back to an intake in general. The motor decides how much air it can pull in. The intake just has to provide enough as to not choke it off but more down low from a shorter tube, etc. etc. makes no sense if you think about it. Why would a longer tube provide more on top? There's no logical reason for it. The shorter the path the better. The only differences are is if you are pulling in hot air or cold air which affects timing.
Really all any of us need is a big air filter connected to the TB like carbs used to do and seems like Code 3 did to some extent. Why we don't is we would not be able to resonate any sound and not everyone wants a big "roar" when opening the throttle and depending on position we could be sucking in a lot of hot air.
Factory airboxes just provide better packaging and sound deadening. Some work better than others at providing enough flow.
Last edited by racetested; Sep 4, 2008 at 11:23 AM.

Cost = $40
Install = 10 minutes
Of course I just threw some foam motorcycle filters on the end, and they aren't pretty. Standard 2.5" tubing fits right into the stock intake. I tested so many different intake setups, and have loads of road and dyno datalogging. I can tell you that this type of intake makes between no power and less power. The stock airboxes work very well, they were not the problem, the restriction at the TB was the issue...This is why we developed the intake we now sell. The specific setup pictured didn't stay on the car very long. The only reason this type of intake shows gains on other vehicles is because of the SL55 splitter, not because of the tubes, and those gains are almost completely at the top end, not throughout the powerband.
Brandon
This is the first car I have had with dual intakes. Past cars had one tube that was usually around 3" and there is reason to think we can allow more air sometimes but now I have wo intakes that are 3" at the front. I can't see where the restriction is once you guys add the bigger flowing Y splitter or open up the OEM back to more flow via Code 3's mod.
The front half is providing plenty of air in stock form. If a tuner is selling an intake what they should do is provide pressure drop test's, vacuum, etc. and show what is restricting and what is not. Then a dyno to back up how much the pressure drops are affecting power.
Here are some articles I read years ago that I found informative. A subscription may be necessary for full articles.
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/search/...takes&x=33&y=9
Last edited by racetested; Sep 4, 2008 at 11:39 AM.
Isn't it possible that different ECU tune parameters are an important factor in exploiting gains of the different setups?
Back to an intake in general. The motor decides how much air it can pull in. The intake just has to provide enough as to not choke it off but more down low from a shorter tube, etc. etc. makes no sense if you think about it. Why would a longer tube provide more on top? There's no logical reason for it. The shorter the path the better. The only differences are is if you are pulling in hot air or cold air which affects timing.
Really all any of us need is a big air filter connected to the TB like carbs used to do and seems like Code 3 did to some extent. Why we don't is we would not be able to resonate any sound and not everyone wants a big "roar" when opening the throttle and depending on position we could be sucking in a lot of hot air.
As for him mentioning that it made little/no power, I'm pretty sure that he is referring to gains over the code 3 intake + SL55 splitter alone.
A s/c motor is not going to be affected as much with intake valve pulses as you have a pressurized chamber going in instead of relying on the vacuum effect of a N/A motor.
I'm not sure if we are both on the same page?
A s/c motor is not going to be affected as much with intake valve pulses as you have a pressurized chamber going in instead of relying on the vacuum effect of a N/A motor.
I'm not sure if we are both on the same page?






