Might stop using Royal Purple
#26
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05 C55
anything heavier than 0/40, below 30 degrees or so, and my car bangs like a tin can until the oil comes up to temp in about 10 minutes. Mobil1 in 0/40 is approved by MB for use in this engine. ill take their printed word over your advice any day of the week. ive used mobil 1 in different weights, as well as royal purple. im currently running the 0/40 Mobil 1 simply so i dont have to listen to it shake itself apart for 10 minutes every morning. not to sound like a dick, but i just picked my ride up from the dealer 5 hours ago for the cold start complaint, and their first question was "are you using Mobil 1 in 0/40?". they mumbled something about carbon buildup, threw a cleaner in the fuel system, and handed me my keys. they will look at the valvetrain if the complaint is there after a weeks time.
RP and Mobil 1 are the same price at pepboys or any other major retailer, I don't know where everyone is seeing higher prices, go to any pepboys or autozone its the same price.
Also you shouldn't run 0w weights in our cars period mobil1 or RP (even though you can technically as per the manual for very cold conditions). Mobil1 0w weights pour like water and are way too thin IMHO. 10w-30 or 10w-40 (or heavier) is a much better suited weight for these german motors and will prevent oil consumption so before blaming a specific brand, make sure its not the oil weight you are using thats the problem.
With that said, I've never had good results with Mobil 1 and nothing but positive results with RP but again its up to the end user. I suggest running a thicker weight first and seeing if that cures the problem before switching oils.
Also you shouldn't run 0w weights in our cars period mobil1 or RP (even though you can technically as per the manual for very cold conditions). Mobil1 0w weights pour like water and are way too thin IMHO. 10w-30 or 10w-40 (or heavier) is a much better suited weight for these german motors and will prevent oil consumption so before blaming a specific brand, make sure its not the oil weight you are using thats the problem.
With that said, I've never had good results with Mobil 1 and nothing but positive results with RP but again its up to the end user. I suggest running a thicker weight first and seeing if that cures the problem before switching oils.
#27
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I've went from Mobil 1 to AMSOIL, and tried out Royal Purple over the summer. Can't say anything bad about it, especially considering that it was less expensive for me than purchasing Mobil 1 (found a good deal off an RSX forum). Car ran a bit more crisply, and my fuel economy went up a tad too. Quality product they make.
#28
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2012 C300 4Matic
Also you shouldn't run 0w weights in our cars period mobil1 or RP (even though you can technically as per the manual for very cold conditions). Mobil1 0w weights pour like water and are way too thin IMHO. 10w-30 or 10w-40 (or heavier) is a much better suited weight for these german motors and will prevent oil consumption so before blaming a specific brand, make sure its not the oil weight you are using thats the problem.
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#29
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Why not? The diagram provided in the maintenance booklet lists a variety of different weights and the ambient temperature ranges to which they are applicable to. If you run the car in the range of 5W-30, then what issues are present?
#30
Most of the M3 owners don't even use Mobil 1 anymore b/c its just way too thin, makes the lifters tick like a time bomb so most m3 drivers have switched over to other metals. The mobil 1 of today is not the mobil 1 of decades past. I have never walked into a high end performance shop and seen anything other than Royal purple on the shelves...never. For all out performance its still the best, you just have to decide which weight is the best for your car.
Also the whole reason manufacturers recommend certain oils is NOT because they are the best oils, it is b/c they are contractually obligated to recommend that oil, its a business decision, nothing more. Every manufacturer choses an oil company and sticks with it. BMW Castrol, Mercedes Mobil. People read way too far into it b/c they do not understand the underlying business reasons for making those recommendations.
Also the whole reason manufacturers recommend certain oils is NOT because they are the best oils, it is b/c they are contractually obligated to recommend that oil, its a business decision, nothing more. Every manufacturer choses an oil company and sticks with it. BMW Castrol, Mercedes Mobil. People read way too far into it b/c they do not understand the underlying business reasons for making those recommendations.
#31
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W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
Im currently using Total (elf) QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W30 which is a 229.5 spec oil with no problems. Before that i was using Mobil 1 but i get the total at wholesale pricing so i decided to give it a try. Had an oil analysis done with both oils and the Mobil 1 was breaking down quicker then the Total oil. So im happy with the switch.
http://www.totalmotoroils.com/lub/lu...8?opendocument
#32
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C55,SL55,C63
If im not mistaken some of those subaru's had oil burning problems.
Im currently using Total (elf) QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W30 which is a 229.5 spec oil with no problems. Before that i was using Mobil 1 but i get the total at wholesale pricing so i decided to give it a try. Had an oil analysis done with both oils and the Mobil 1 was breaking down quicker then the Total oil. So im happy with the switch.
http://www.totalmotoroils.com/lub/lu...8?opendocument
Im currently using Total (elf) QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W30 which is a 229.5 spec oil with no problems. Before that i was using Mobil 1 but i get the total at wholesale pricing so i decided to give it a try. Had an oil analysis done with both oils and the Mobil 1 was breaking down quicker then the Total oil. So im happy with the switch.
http://www.totalmotoroils.com/lub/lu...8?opendocument
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W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
It may be a bit hard to get a hold of here in the states. autohausaz.com used to carry ELF/Total but they stopped for some reason. Just be sure to get the 229.5 spec'd oil. Also dont be confused by the names, ELF and Total are the same brand/company they just named the automotive oils Total and motorcycles oils ELF for the states. As if anyone really knows much about the brand
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#34
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C55,SL55,C63
It may be a bit hard to get a hold of here in the states. autohausaz.com used to carry ELF/Total but they stopped for some reason. Just be sure to get the 229.5 spec'd oil. Also dont be confused by the names, ELF and Total are the same brand/company they just named the automotive oils Total and motorcycles oils ELF for the states. As if anyone really knows much about the brand ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#35
Also the whole reason manufacturers recommend certain oils is NOT because they are the best oils, it is b/c they are contractually obligated to recommend that oil, its a business decision, nothing more. Every manufacturer choses an oil company and sticks with it. BMW Castrol, Mercedes Mobil. People read way too far into it b/c they do not understand the underlying business reasons for making those recommendations.
RP has been tested and retested by many independent sources and it always at the top of the list. M1 is not even close in terms of performance or protection. Having said that, my C55 is running on M1 because it only has 20K miles and I am using it as a DD car. My race car is full of RP (engine, tranny, diff). I am not sure if I gained any whp, but the engine oil and coolant temps dropped by about 15-20 degrees. And yes, prior to RP I run M1 in my race car. BTW, my tow rig and 4x4 also full of RP.
-
#36
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C55,SL55,C63
AMS Performance is 100% correct. DO NOT assume that manufacturer’s endorsement = best oil for your car. Most of parts, subcomponents and overall engineering is a compromise. Price point, supply continuity, co-branding opportunities, contract terms, etc., are all important factors which ultimately drive manufactures endorsements. There are hundreds of examples of when OEM promote subpar components. Think about tires. 99% of the time OE tires are not anywhere close to be best in their category. Worse yet, often they are not even cost effective. This includes our OE tires. They suck and cost 1.5-2 times more than better tires.
RP has been tested and retested by many independent sources and it always at the top of the list. M1 is not even close in terms of performance or protection. Having said that, my C55 is running on M1 because it only has 20K miles and I am using it as a DD car. My race car is full of RP (engine, tranny, diff). I am not sure if I gained any whp, but the engine oil and coolant temps dropped by about 15-20 degrees. And yes, prior to RP I run M1 in my race car. BTW, my tow rig and 4x4 also full of RP.
-
RP has been tested and retested by many independent sources and it always at the top of the list. M1 is not even close in terms of performance or protection. Having said that, my C55 is running on M1 because it only has 20K miles and I am using it as a DD car. My race car is full of RP (engine, tranny, diff). I am not sure if I gained any whp, but the engine oil and coolant temps dropped by about 15-20 degrees. And yes, prior to RP I run M1 in my race car. BTW, my tow rig and 4x4 also full of RP.
-
#37
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C55 ///AMG, 535xi
it's normal for german cars to down a qt of oil around 2-3000 miles, especially if you have a heavy foot.
on my 535xi, I already had a "add engine oil" message when I hit the 3500 milage.
it's normal, no matter what oil you use.
on my 535xi, I already had a "add engine oil" message when I hit the 3500 milage.
it's normal, no matter what oil you use.
#39
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W203 C32 AMG, W124 E300D
#40
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anything heavier than 0/40, below 30 degrees or so, and my car bangs like a tin can until the oil comes up to temp in about 10 minutes. Mobil1 in 0/40 is approved by MB for use in this engine. ill take their printed word over your advice any day of the week. ive used mobil 1 in different weights, as well as royal purple. im currently running the 0/40 Mobil 1 simply so i dont have to listen to it shake itself apart for 10 minutes every morning. not to sound like a dick, but i just picked my ride up from the dealer 5 hours ago for the cold start complaint, and their first question was "are you using Mobil 1 in 0/40?". they mumbled something about carbon buildup, threw a cleaner in the fuel system, and handed me my keys. they will look at the valvetrain if the complaint is there after a weeks time.
#41
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Mercedes
I stick with the 0w-40 Mobil 1. I run my car kinda hard and I have noticed no problems with ticking whatsoever...
but I change my oil every 2-3k miles, so oil breakdown rates really dont apply to me...
but I change my oil every 2-3k miles, so oil breakdown rates really dont apply to me...
#42
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2002 C32 1987 190E 2.3 334K miles and going
RP and Mobil 1 are the same price at pepboys or any other major retailer, I don't know where everyone is seeing higher prices, go to any pepboys or autozone its the same price.
Also you shouldn't run 0w weights in our cars period mobil1 or RP (even though you can technically as per the manual for very cold conditions). Mobil1 0w weights pour like water and are way too thin IMHO. 10w-30 or 10w-40 (or heavier) is a much better suited weight for these german motors and will prevent oil consumption so before blaming a specific brand, make sure its not the oil weight you are using thats the problem.
With that said, I've never had good results with Mobil 1 and nothing but positive results with RP but again its up to the end user. I suggest running a thicker weight first and seeing if that cures the problem before switching oils.
Also you shouldn't run 0w weights in our cars period mobil1 or RP (even though you can technically as per the manual for very cold conditions). Mobil1 0w weights pour like water and are way too thin IMHO. 10w-30 or 10w-40 (or heavier) is a much better suited weight for these german motors and will prevent oil consumption so before blaming a specific brand, make sure its not the oil weight you are using thats the problem.
With that said, I've never had good results with Mobil 1 and nothing but positive results with RP but again its up to the end user. I suggest running a thicker weight first and seeing if that cures the problem before switching oils.
The 0 is the lowest temp range the oil specifies. 10W means just that. 10 degrees. In the Bay Area California, we're never below 10 degrees.
common sense prevails.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
W20, W30, W40 is the viscousity (weight).
0W-40, 0W-30, 0W-50 all have the same minimum operating temp range just different viscousity (weight thickness).
#43
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ML430, Mini Cooper S and Porsche 911 Twin Turbo
Quite a bit of mis-information in this thread
With regard to Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil - to the best of my knowledge it has not change it's formulation since it was launched and is the same world wide.
A 0W is to be preferred as it gets to areas which need to be lubricated faster - especially at start up.
That's why most performance engines need 0-40 and why Formula 1 engines use it and nothing else - bear in mind a F1 engine goes to idles at circa 5000RPM within a second of start up. Thus rapid oil pressure and flow during the initial start up is critical, helps thereafter as well.
Furthermore in F1 there were no business reasons involved as to why it was selected.
Rather it was selected after exhaustive testing under extreme conditions - knowledge learned was then passed down to road cars.
The reason RP is offered for sale as an alternative to M1 is most likely due to profit margin for the seller.
For my part I use nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetics in all my cars and frequently going 10,000 miles between changes - again based on extensive R&D performed during race conditions and subsequent oil analysis.
I guess with oil - everyone has an opinion :-)
A 0W is to be preferred as it gets to areas which need to be lubricated faster - especially at start up.
That's why most performance engines need 0-40 and why Formula 1 engines use it and nothing else - bear in mind a F1 engine goes to idles at circa 5000RPM within a second of start up. Thus rapid oil pressure and flow during the initial start up is critical, helps thereafter as well.
Furthermore in F1 there were no business reasons involved as to why it was selected.
Rather it was selected after exhaustive testing under extreme conditions - knowledge learned was then passed down to road cars.
The reason RP is offered for sale as an alternative to M1 is most likely due to profit margin for the seller.
For my part I use nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetics in all my cars and frequently going 10,000 miles between changes - again based on extensive R&D performed during race conditions and subsequent oil analysis.
I guess with oil - everyone has an opinion :-)
Last edited by timdf; 12-25-2008 at 07:38 PM.
#44
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2005 c55amg, 2000 clk430, 2002 clk55amg, 2008 clk63amg black series
With regard to Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil - to the best of my knowledge it has not change it's formulation since it was launched and is the same world wide.
A 0W is to be preferred as it gets to areas which need to be lubricated faster - especially at start up.
That's why most performance engines need 0-40 and why Formula 1 engines use it and nothing else - bear in mind a F1 engine goes to idles at circa 5000RPM within a second of start up. Thus rapid oil pressure and flow during the initial start up is critical, helps thereafter as well.
Furthermore in F1 there were no business reasons involved as to why it was selected.
Rather it was selected after exhaustive testing under extreme conditions - knowledge learned was then passed down to road cars.
The reason it's offered for sale as an alternative is most likely due to profit margin for the seller.
For my part I use nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetics in all my cars and frequently going 10,000 miles between changes - again based on extensive R&D performed during race conditions and subsequent oil analysis.
I guess with oil - everyone has an opinion :-)
A 0W is to be preferred as it gets to areas which need to be lubricated faster - especially at start up.
That's why most performance engines need 0-40 and why Formula 1 engines use it and nothing else - bear in mind a F1 engine goes to idles at circa 5000RPM within a second of start up. Thus rapid oil pressure and flow during the initial start up is critical, helps thereafter as well.
Furthermore in F1 there were no business reasons involved as to why it was selected.
Rather it was selected after exhaustive testing under extreme conditions - knowledge learned was then passed down to road cars.
The reason it's offered for sale as an alternative is most likely due to profit margin for the seller.
For my part I use nothing but Mobil 1 Synthetics in all my cars and frequently going 10,000 miles between changes - again based on extensive R&D performed during race conditions and subsequent oil analysis.
I guess with oil - everyone has an opinion :-)
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#45
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07 E550, 02 C32, 91 300E
We have pretty much beaten this topic to death:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...-more-oil.html
TLDR: Mobil 1 0w-40
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...-more-oil.html
TLDR: Mobil 1 0w-40
#46
MBWorld Fanatic!
AMS Performance
Do you even know anything about an AMG engine?
o wt is the viscosity at ambient temp at start up.The oil flows through the galleys and pump to critical components faster.
30wt is at operating temp and as noted in Mercedes literature is not recommended in the AMG engines.
1998-2004 there is not a single oil that is 30 wt that meets AMG specs
and only 1 non 0wt that does.RP and amsoil are neither.
The additives in the mobil1 were reduced as well as all other oils to preserve catalytic life.Mobil1 still meets all of Mercedes specs as well as several other oilsThe specs were developed to set shear factors that Rp does not meet in the AMG engine and if you have ever had tpo rebuild an AMG engine with a flat spotted cam or more,you would know that.
RP on store shelves is not an endorsement as to it's abilities it is there due to massive marketing efforts.Call them and see if they will suggest useage in your engine.Call me if you need one rebuilt because you gambled and lost.
Did all these companies pay off Mercedes Benz to endorse their oil?
Or do their oils meet the required specs that allow a long and happy life for the AMG m113 and M112 engines?
Almost every time I read one of your posts I wonder if you Drive a Mercedes or just sell the pulleys
Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Elf Excellium 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
You probably sing the praises of K and N filters also.
The other posters that install amsoil or other non spec Engine oil or Trans fluid
Should not be complaining when a fluid related failure sends your beautiful AMG to an early demise.![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
o wt is the viscosity at ambient temp at start up.The oil flows through the galleys and pump to critical components faster.
30wt is at operating temp and as noted in Mercedes literature is not recommended in the AMG engines.
1998-2004 there is not a single oil that is 30 wt that meets AMG specs
and only 1 non 0wt that does.RP and amsoil are neither.
The additives in the mobil1 were reduced as well as all other oils to preserve catalytic life.Mobil1 still meets all of Mercedes specs as well as several other oilsThe specs were developed to set shear factors that Rp does not meet in the AMG engine and if you have ever had tpo rebuild an AMG engine with a flat spotted cam or more,you would know that.
RP on store shelves is not an endorsement as to it's abilities it is there due to massive marketing efforts.Call them and see if they will suggest useage in your engine.Call me if you need one rebuilt because you gambled and lost.
Did all these companies pay off Mercedes Benz to endorse their oil?
Or do their oils meet the required specs that allow a long and happy life for the AMG m113 and M112 engines?
Almost every time I read one of your posts I wonder if you Drive a Mercedes or just sell the pulleys
Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Elf Excellium 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
You probably sing the praises of K and N filters also.
The other posters that install amsoil or other non spec Engine oil or Trans fluid
Should not be complaining when a fluid related failure sends your beautiful AMG to an early demise.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![bow](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
#47
Do you even know anything about an AMG engine?
o wt is the viscosity at ambient temp at start up.The oil flows through the galleys and pump to critical components faster.
30wt is at operating temp and as noted in Mercedes literature is not recommended in the AMG engines.
1998-2004 there is not a single oil that is 30 wt that meets AMG specs
and only 1 non 0wt that does.RP and amsoil are neither.
The additives in the mobil1 were reduced as well as all other oils to preserve catalytic life.Mobil1 still meets all of Mercedes specs as well as several other oilsThe specs were developed to set shear factors that Rp does not meet in the AMG engine and if you have ever had tpo rebuild an AMG engine with a flat spotted cam or more,you would know that.
RP on store shelves is not an endorsement as to it's abilities it is there due to massive marketing efforts.Call them and see if they will suggest useage in your engine.Call me if you need one rebuilt because you gambled and lost.
Did all these companies pay off Mercedes Benz to endorse their oil?
Or do their oils meet the required specs that allow a long and happy life for the AMG m113 and M112 engines?
Almost every time I read one of your posts I wonder if you Drive a Mercedes or just sell the pulleys
Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Elf Excellium 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
You probably sing the praises of K and N filters also.
The other posters that install amsoil or other non spec Engine oil or Trans fluid
Should not be complaining when a fluid related failure sends your beautiful AMG to an early demise.![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![bow](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
o wt is the viscosity at ambient temp at start up.The oil flows through the galleys and pump to critical components faster.
30wt is at operating temp and as noted in Mercedes literature is not recommended in the AMG engines.
1998-2004 there is not a single oil that is 30 wt that meets AMG specs
and only 1 non 0wt that does.RP and amsoil are neither.
The additives in the mobil1 were reduced as well as all other oils to preserve catalytic life.Mobil1 still meets all of Mercedes specs as well as several other oilsThe specs were developed to set shear factors that Rp does not meet in the AMG engine and if you have ever had tpo rebuild an AMG engine with a flat spotted cam or more,you would know that.
RP on store shelves is not an endorsement as to it's abilities it is there due to massive marketing efforts.Call them and see if they will suggest useage in your engine.Call me if you need one rebuilt because you gambled and lost.
Did all these companies pay off Mercedes Benz to endorse their oil?
Or do their oils meet the required specs that allow a long and happy life for the AMG m113 and M112 engines?
Almost every time I read one of your posts I wonder if you Drive a Mercedes or just sell the pulleys
Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40
Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Elf Excellium 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
You probably sing the praises of K and N filters also.
The other posters that install amsoil or other non spec Engine oil or Trans fluid
Should not be complaining when a fluid related failure sends your beautiful AMG to an early demise.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![bow](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
1. A manufacturer like Mercedes is not going to bother testing and approving a small-volume producer like RP or Amsoil. If the oil makers claim to meet that standard, they probably do.
2. You can't make any blanket statement about "Mobil 1" meeting a standard since it is just a sub-brand name that gets stuck on a huge variety of products, with varying quality levels. One or two versions of Mobil 1 meet the MB standards.
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
So all that independent test data that proves Royal Purple and AMSOIL as superior oils is irrelevant simply because MB-AMG prefers Mobil 1? That's the key point here, as any manufacturer can hype up their own product, while third party comparative tests take a more honest approach.
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is not
the Mercedes Benz that subjects the oil to meet industry standards.It is the oil producer.If Royal Purple and AMSOIL with their pyrimad scheme marketing approach subject their oils to the testing requirements of the industry and show the proper numbers that is their obligation to do so.All the above oils listed have and passed certification.
Having done forensic tear downs of failed engines running other then MB spec fluids in forum members cars,It makes me wary.
Someone needs to do their homework on engine oil if they think the first number in a multi weight oil is the temperature rating.
It still comes back to use whatever oil you feel you believe in,but don't come crying when the piper needs to be paid.
We've seen it in so many failed engines and transmissions using no spec fluids,that it still amazes me anyone would gamble and use non spec based on some marketing ploys.
Look at all the dollars RP puts into touting their oils use in the engine horsepower competitions.If you base your use of the rp in your engine on that sort of market ploy.You had better be ready to tear down your engine like we do after a race.If you use amsoil based on the multi level marketing approach,I wish you and your engine well.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Caveat Emptor
Merry Christmas
Happy New Year
![bow](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
some guys don't think twice about paying $700 for a spark plug change that they could do for less than $100 in under 2 hours and then they will gamble with non spec fluid in their engine and transmission.Go figure
Having done forensic tear downs of failed engines running other then MB spec fluids in forum members cars,It makes me wary.
Someone needs to do their homework on engine oil if they think the first number in a multi weight oil is the temperature rating.
It still comes back to use whatever oil you feel you believe in,but don't come crying when the piper needs to be paid.
We've seen it in so many failed engines and transmissions using no spec fluids,that it still amazes me anyone would gamble and use non spec based on some marketing ploys.
Look at all the dollars RP puts into touting their oils use in the engine horsepower competitions.If you base your use of the rp in your engine on that sort of market ploy.You had better be ready to tear down your engine like we do after a race.If you use amsoil based on the multi level marketing approach,I wish you and your engine well.
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Caveat Emptor
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some guys don't think twice about paying $700 for a spark plug change that they could do for less than $100 in under 2 hours and then they will gamble with non spec fluid in their engine and transmission.Go figure
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