Gramma_Benz

Saw this in a thread in the "other" M112k forum. Posted by tighed1, it seems that he has done this, but with a superCooler. Wondering if we follow his instructions with a LET or C3 Heat exchanger, will we see cooler IAT's?

Don't make the $175 mistake and replace your stock pump for a Johnson just yet. I did and still had the overtemp problem.

I would suggest to first separate your cooling systems so the heat exchanger (HE) isn't also trying to cool the engine coolant. It's practically free 'cept for the cost of a few hose clamps that you probably have laying around anyway.

Remove your front grille and go here (copy/paste) http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...tml#post387956 and follow starting from step 8.

Pull off the top hose on your HE and drain in a bucket.

Run a 27", 5/8" hose from the top connection of your HE to the top intercooler connection. Plug the hoses noted in steps 8 & 10.

See if that doesn't work first. If it does you can pay me!

Note: the stock HE only holds 2 cups of coolant!!!

I have the stock pump on my roadster (with a Super Cooler) and have been driving HARD in mid 90+ degree weather without any problems!

Original Thread:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/35416-temperamental-srt-6-a.html

hooleyboy

I have an independent intercooler system with reservoir, two heat exchangers and a really loud Jabsco pump. I have my pump and supercharger wired up on a the same fuse. So If my pump goes my supercharger will shut off.

Just today I blew the fuse that controls my Pump and SC. My IAT's shot up from 104 degrees to 145 degrees. I just got off the phone with Jturkel and was telling him about it. With the new headers I got and the drop in boost from them I'm running at about 2 degrees over ambient!

I highly recommend splitting your cooling system.

jturkel

i need this soooo bad. my car is getting killed by this 110+ heat. it only runs semi strong at night when its back down into the mid 90s again.

i need to separate my cooling system AND run my pump all the time

Looks like Tighed1 made another link in there for running it full time.

Mike, you have both right? Independent/Separated AND running IC pump all the time?

what are the advantages of separating the cooling system vs the advantages of running the i/c pump all the time when the key is in the on/run position? (when battery at least activated)

JonMBZ

I didn't realize how much temps played a part in performance I really notice my car take off at night when its cool outside. How much did your setup cost hooley?

merc4ever

run the pump all time will last about 2 mounth

jturkel

you try it? i know the pump sucks and i've had mine replaced twice under warranty. so i was thinking about this exact thing last night.....that running it all the time will shorten the life.....if this is the case with the pump, the pump can always be replaced or upgraded. i just dont trust the CM30/johnson pump. i am still convinced this causes the I/C to leak from too much pressure from all the coolant that is backed up. it pumps too much for the stock i/c IMO

hooleyboy

Popped a fuse yesterday no big deal, My pump is on all the time and its going strong.

320 dreamer

if you get in your car and start it cold. let it idle then rev the motor to approx 2000 rpm. the pump will kick on and stay on until the motor is shut off. the only need for a continous pump would for a cooldown while the car is turned off at the track.
i separated my system for free. needed 3 plugs and it was done. no resovoir needed for the s/c. mine runs cooler than ever. i can hold the hoses with bare hands.

the cm30 works fine. im flowing 4.7 gpm compared to 1.4 for the oem. by running a supercooler you can see the flow and there is no backup that i can see. there is so much space compared to stock the backup is eleimated by leaving an inch or 2 of space at the top of the h/e. no leaks no issues lots of power!!
if you were to watch the vids by waldig on youtube you will see how restrictive the oem h/e is. if theres a cause for i/c leakage due to excessive pressure this is were it would be!

hooleyboy

How do you add fluid if it gets low?

jturkel

could you perhaps take a picture or two and do a little writeup and how exactly you separated your system so easily? wouldnt it be an advantage to add an additional tank as well?

+1

320 dreamer

the heat exchanger i have is a small radiator modded to allow the inlet and out from the passenger side instead of the front. it also was welded to convert it to a dual pass from a single pass. to add fluid you remove the grille and remove the rad cap! add as needed, but if burped and filled properly leaving a small space for heat expansion a resovoir hasnt been needed and no fluid has been lost.
i hope to be adding my c3 pulley this weekend (if buster brown ever shows up with it!) with a diy beltwrap (cost 30$!) and a sl55 intake setup. while i have it apart ill shoot some pics of the separation. im not sure if the slk32 is routed the same as yours but you will get the idea

Gramma_Benz

Needswings now sells this kit for the SRT-6. Will it not work for the C32?
or maybe in concept at the very least???


http://needswings.com/NeedsWings-Intercooler-Fluid-Isolation-Kit-NWICiso.aspx

NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolation Kit

The factory Intercooler fluid (coolant) intermixes with the engine coolant in the OEM configuration. By installing these 2 simple replacement hoses with shut off valve you are able to isolate the 2 systems. Thereby greatly lowering the Intercooler fluid temperature which in turn will help with the air-water intercooler properly lower the intake air temperature. Our kit is a direct replacement, no factory parts are harmed durring the install of this kit.

Kit is to be installed with valves open, take the car through a heat cycle to purge out any air bubbles that were introduced into the line durring the install. Once the car has had a change to purge out all the air bubbles the valves can be closed, which isolates the 2 systems. The Intercooler will not heat up high enough nor build up enough pressure to require an overflow, we use the factory overflow for our purging after install and never need it again (other then to re-purge the air out of the system in case of future cooling system work).

jturkel

greg,

not sure if it will work. i just sent Rob (Needswings) an email to ask about fitment. I also asked about the oil catch can that he now has up there for sale as well.

I really want to get my temps down. They are way to high and I'm willing to try anything. They get darn near close the 120 C (probably more like 115 C) mark on my car after driving on the highway at 80mph for 30 minutes in 110 degree F outside temps. it concerns me.

EDIT: temps are actually just below 100 C. not 120 or 115 C

i've thought about doing Brian Brave's reservoir thing and/or separating the system.....even thought about meth injection. i know someone over on the srt6 forum did it but i don't recall the results (though after going over there and reading it, i wont do it lol).....i've been thinking about literally anything that might help just a little with the cooling system. maybe modifying the surge tanks might help a little?

jturkel

interesting thing to note.......in both Tighed1's and Needswings setups in which they separate the systems, it appears they now have to independent systems but only one

It seems that with both setups, the radiator gets the stock reservoir tank, and the intercooler looks like it is on its own, just has the H/E. This would lead me to wonder if the coolant for the engine would be sufficiently cooled or not, possibly leading to significantly higher engine temps.

also, anyone ever think about perhaps upgrading the fan for the radiator? (edit: there might not be room for a larger fan)

hooleyboy

The needwings thing looks like a pool filter valve. I will take some pics of my setup tomorrow when i can see clearly.

Turk you missed a good time at the bar tonight.

PTE

Hello, My experence with marine design pumps used in automotive cooling systems (IE Johnson & Jabsco, Has not left me with a great reliability history. I know some of you guy's have had flawless performance for your CM30 Johnson pumps. With The help of Mbenzman in Atlanta GA. He turned me on to the Meziere Bullet water pumps. They are a great quiet pump. only 7 amp draw, but not a easy replacement install like the CM-30 , But I have not had 1 failure in 4 years . The best price I found was through Summit Racing, The model I used is a WP136S and hose fittings (2 needed) WP12058B Heres the specsWP136S - Electric Water Pump

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The other thing is you may want to try a PTE modded T-stat assy and do the -10* fan setting. I'm not trying to sell you on this stuff but for a C-32 , a $100.00 , is well spent. I've sold 5 of them so far to the SRT-6 group Crossfire
Have a Happy 4th of July ,America Cheers _PTEngineering

Gramma_Benz

Here's some threads about the modified thermostats:

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/34076-pte-modified-thermostat.html

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/24888-modified-thermostat.html

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsbs-how-articles/23087-thermostat-replacement.html

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/21902-tvt-thermostat.html

And another thread about cooling systems:
http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/technical-modifications/20813-srt-6-vs-slk32-s-c-cooling-system.html

Zeppelin

Are you talking about coolant temps or IAT? You will never get your IAT any lower than about 10 degrees above ambient with an intercooler. If you are talking coolant temps then 120 seems high.

jturkel

im talking about the temp readout by scrolling through the menus on the digital readout by the speedo.......

EDIT: temps are actually just below 100C. Last night, I was generally around 196 F and saw as high as 210F, which was really concerning

320 dreamer

hooleyboy all i did to mine was remove the large hose going to the T on the s/c and the coolant tank. i used female rubber plugs and factory clamps. then remove the small line from the y fitting on the h/e lines and the rad. line. again small female mplugs and factory clamps. your system is now separate from the engine. with a larger h/e mounted in front my temps for the s/c are way down no more s/c cutout and im able to fill if needed through the cap. jegs has a number of rads available for under 200$ and some one with a tig can make these very easy. the measurements for mine were 26" wx 16"h x 1 "d. the one i have is wleded on 1 side to make it a dual pass and both inlet and outlet are on the same side. heres some pics
since this install i relocated the horns and modded the p/s line to allow max airflow. this is a very ,VERY tight fit! but with 1/2" between the rad and the h/e flow is great. im sure with some carefull measureing a similar h/e can be made for your cars.

Zeppelin

95C to 100C (203F to 212F) are normal coolant temps. Nothing you can do about them and nothing to be done as they are fine. I would agree that separating the IC and Coolant circuit will help your IAT's (which is what you want), but do nothing for the coolant.

EDIT: I just read your Heat Wrap post and see you figured out your IC vs. Coolant temps.

jturkel

thanks for the help and sorry for the confusion. i was confused for a bit myself lol.

320 dreamer

separating the i/c and the engine will lower iat's but using a 180 tstat and remapping the fan to come on 10 degrees cooler will lower the engine temps to approx 180 degrees F without setting any cel's off.

jturkel

UPDATE ON THIS

just got home from DynoComp. Pulley Saver Kit installed. I recommend it to anyone applicable. Somehow, my LET idler pulley with the upgraded bearing was failing. Odd....I installed it in March

but, with regards to the coolant system split

There is NO WAY that a C32 can get an additional reservoir in the engine bay unless it is either:

a) Code3's (where it mounts and how thin it is helps)
b) Needswings (not really a reservoir, check out their website)

or

c) smaller airpump needed and relocated.

we tried relocating my air pump but there was no place for the smallest reservoir (at least that would do anything) to fit. Not even behind the driver side light (which is where the catch can is going to go). I will have to update you guys on the reservoir. Might go with the Needswings one (again, not really a reservoir, but a split system nonetheless) b/c the code3 is just way too expensive

320 dreamer

josh i really dont think you need a resovoir for the separation of the coolant system with the cm30 and the let h/e separeting the system should keep your temps way below boiling point. at this point with a 50/50 mix or less or water wetter added you should be fine. with my setup if it doesnt work for you its 5 min back to oem.
to date i have run extended runs in excess of 150 mph and in rush houtr traffic in 100 degree heat and have yet to add any coolant to my h/e. it simply doesnt need it.
what most guys use the h/e resovoir for is to add ice at the drags for quicker cooling. you could always add the c3 resivoir if you really want one