I put em in tonite...Left them gapped about .036-.038...Close as I could get em...Picked up half a second 0-60..Happy with the results...Old plugs were rusty color and had little round white flat mounds on the ground (lower)electrode where the spark hits from the center(upper) electrode..Never seen that before, has anyone else seen that?...They were NGK-R with Mercedes logo on them.....Probably original..My C32 has 100k miles exactly so probably time to change em..

 

Original plugs no doubt........we just trashed our OEM plugs too.

 

Like you said previously, it was a knucklebuster..7 years and 100k miles and never changed...Caca, man..Yes, I saw your father & son project..Good luck with it..Can I borrow the keys to the C63?

 

with just the new plugs? You gain 0.5 sec just with $100? I'll change my plug everyday if that is true.

 

Yeah I was surprised..The plugs had this white buildup on neg. electrode and I think that was robbing power...They were 7 years and 100k miles old....Looked like original plugs...

 

That is great news benzluvr1! Did you change them yourself, or did you have someone else put them in for you? I am simply asking because I want to know if it is an easy job so my friend and I can put them into my C32. My car is lagging and it feels like it is choking when you give it some gas. It feels like it downshifts, but then it chokes and goes nowhere. What made you change your spark plugs if you don't mind me asking?

 

why are you starting a new thread on the same topic?

and white tips on spark plugs are normal wear. they're not built up.

 

agreed on the normal wear part

and agreed on the same topic.

benzluvr (or w/e), please slow down on the threads. you have three or four threads about the exact same thing.....post your results and additional pertinent questions in the original thread. do not create a new thread just for a brand new question on the exact same topic

thanks

 

Got it fellas...Thanks for the guidance...

 

Put em in myself alk...Just figured it was time b/c of the mileage to change plugs..If choke means loss of power in your case, maybe it is ic pump or related issue..

 

that might be your TPS (throttle position sensor) on your gas pedal.

 

Yeah, you mentioned that in the other thread. At the dealership they quoted me $200 for the entire pedal assembly without labor. Is this sensor sold by itself? I want to be sure before I buy it that it will fix the problem cause money is tight these days. As always, I appreciate your advice Frank.

 

Don't waste your money alk...Its IC pump , relay or switch related...Its definitely not TPC..

 

the sensor's not sold by itself.

what is the full symptom of the car? no power under any rpm? or engine doesn't want to rev with heavy throttle input?

 

Ok, it starts like this (sorry for the long write up)... It is hard to keep the rpm's in the higher range. The car feels sluggish and feels like it does not downshift. It is fine when you start from 0 and accelerate, but when you are at a constant speed at approximately 40 mph or at any speed above 40, you have to basically floor the throttle (push the kickdown button and all) to get a downshift. The car gets sloooowly up to speed if you dont floor it or if you slowly push the gas pedal all the way without hitting the downkick button. If you drive at a constant speed, and decide to pass a car, you push the gas pedal, and the car simply feels like it is searching for a gear and will not downshift and snail its way up the rpm's. Even in higher rpm's it is not what it used to be. I am also experiencing a very short first gear unless I floor the car when in S mode and automatic. The car works much better when it is in the tip tronic mode and is much more responsive, but it still does not feel like it felt a year ago. It does not rocket anymore, and I dont want to floor it every time I want to pass someone. My car is an 02 with 65k and a new transmission, tcu, ecu, torque converter, radiator, and other little things replaced under warranty. The tranny was replaced about a year ago and 15k ago.

 

does the above symptom happen when the car is cold the first 5-10min?

if it's the i/c pump you can still drive the same way except when the supercharger disengage which you will feel the car is mad slow although the engine is still somewhat willing to rev.

if it's the i/c pump relay basically the same symptom as the i/c pump fail because the pump will not turn on due to bad relay.

supercharger will only disengage when the IAT is too high.

also see if you can pull the some codes from odbii port.


lastly check out the thread TemjinX recently started regarding similar issue which I think he had listed the pedal part numbers on his thread. if you know the part number you can get it from the online source like getmercedesparts.com or rmeuropean.com much cheaper than from dealership.

 

Kfor the first 5 to 10 minutes the car feels definitively better and more responsive. I have had my ic pump replaced 2 years ago and I know how the car feels when it dies completely. I can still hear the supercharger. Is it possible that the ic pump might not be functioning properly or has a short somewhere? Maybe I am better off just replacing the pump with a johnson cm30 and go from there.

 

if you can still hear the supercharger then it is probably not your i/c pump since if the i/c pump has issue with pumping coolant around the system the IAT will be high which shuts the charger down.

the cm30 would be an much more reliable upgrade for sure.

 

have you considered a clogged heat exchanger?

 

Rusty color is usually deposits from an octane booster.

Bill