185MM & Mobil-1 0w-40
Mainly my question is this... Should I expect to be burning additional amounts of oil with the 185MM OD pulley? I would assume so especially considering the oil's weight. After some research, and opinions I've decided to go with Castrol Syntec 5w-40 as lab tests have proven is does provide more lubrication than Mobil-1 equivalent. I'm thinking the additional weight should also help if there is oil being burnt. Will also be using "Restore" to seal up any loss of compression within the cylinders. Anyone have positive, or negative experiences with "Restore"? It was advertised in my Superstreet magazine... C32 has 90k miles now.
Successfully used Exxon Mobil's API SM-rated synthetic formulation with ~1200 and 1300 PPM of phosphorus & zinc, respectively. Barring external leakage, our long-block has proven able to cope with substantial additional boost sans undue oil consumption. Have yet to burn a even a liter between biannual change intervals after more than 81,000 sporty miles. UOA’s have thus far reported a clean bill of health...knock wood. If yours is failing, a leak-down test will best determine which components are due for refurbishment.
Incidentally, there’s no need to purchase MB’s workshop tool to ascertain its proper sump oil level.
Last edited by splinter; Oct 6, 2010 at 07:02 AM.
I believe it may be the oil level sensor has failed. I assume this being that the electronic measurement no longer works. This message showed up after completely disconnecting the ECU to work on my gauge setup, but I don't think it's related to pulling the ECU. There are no signs of oil leaking anywhere. I'm probably just thinking about it too much, but it seems the engine has a rough feel to it now. That's why I was worried about the possibility of the 185MM setup causing excessive oil burn.

Our oil level sender unit has been problematic for some.
Its superseded PN is 006 153 29 28; requires seal 024 997 70 48.
Several here have installed oversized crank pulleys and opted for a complementing tune. Have a look in the engine compartment while it’s running to help rule out possible pulley, idler or belt irregularities. The “rough feel” you’re currently experiencing is certainly not normal or owing to the oil’s level/quality being slightly off of specification.
Does this occur all the time or after an extended amount of time after your oil change?
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There are just a few quarks to the car, I'm sure you'll get every thing resolved.
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Off the top of head I thought, "Restore is crap", but rather than jump to conclusions, I visited their webpage. This quote is from their site:
How does RESTORE work?
RESTORE is the only product that contains the technologically advanced CSL formulation which actually fills in and seals microscopic leaks in the cylinder wall. The result is increased engine compression and more engine power.
The first question that came to mind was – if this *product* "fills in and seals microscopic leaks in the cylinder wall", shouldn’t the oil filter, which has a bunch of small holes, be a solid mass of restore after the first few miles? When that happens, shouldn't the oil pressure drop to zero? If the answer is: "Restore somehow knows the difference between a filter and metal", there’s a couple of follow up questions.
How does it know not to completely seal the valve guides? If that happens, wont the valves wear out in no time due to a lack of oil?
I have the rocker shaft to bushing clearance specs for a 2.4 liter 911 . It's 0.00065" to 0.0014". Same problem there. It's tight, and if Restore does what it claims, it would cement the rocker to the shaft. Restore would have to somehow differentiate "some metals" from "other metals". I think that is unlikely.
Just in case you think I'm jaded, Avco Lycoming is a major manufacturer of aircraft engines. They were interviewed for an oil additive article and said, "We have tried every additive we could find on the market, and they are all worthless."
I can list several other non-biased sources who have been quoted as saying the same thing.
In the end, it’s your engine and you should do what you think is best. Lastly, here's a little information on the M113's cylinders.
"it fills in cylinder walls"
How would the stuff know when to stop filling in? If the product did what they claimed, no one whose engine had honed cylinders could use it.
In the end, it’s your engine and you should do what you think is best. Lastly, here's a little information on the M113's cylinders.







