I know that our cars suffer form excessive heat, any one considered some *holes* in the hood?

you can just take off the rubber weather seal on the top of the engine. It lets in more cool air. We already have a hood vent, so i dunno what you mean by holes in the hood. Unless your talking about making it bigger.

Yeah, but the vent is almost ornamental. At least on mine, it's 90% covered up. I actually have considered some type of hood louvres. The problem is making some that are tasteful and actually look good. Plus, I doubt many of us are willing to cut into the hood. Also, people already have problem when steam cleaning their engines. I'd be worried about water getting into some of the sensitive electronics.

I took off my weather seal so i can hear the sc sound. I havent had any problems, then again the rains in socal are mild...

the only hood vent that looks good was the Brabus C V8.

we really need someone to make a lightweight one. i'd TOTALLY be down.

if there's someone that can cut my stock hood with good precision locally I'd do it in a heart beat...

I'm planning on having the metal layer cut away underneath the vents.. it just doesn't make any sense and I think would help immensely. Will post pics if I get it done.

I would be intrested in seeing the photos .I am thinking of going down the same route

You can always use thermal coatings to help dispel heat and keep it away from parts you want to stay cool.

We use Techline coatings for our manifolds and heads.

This is what we use on our Manifolds:

TLTD THERMAL DISPERSANT

■Rapidly disperses heat away from a coated component.
■More evenly distributes heat over a coated surface.
■Aids in cooling heat sensitive parts.
■Excellent for intake manifolds, brake components, oil pans etc.
■Very good chemical and corrosion resistance.
■Black in color.
■Cosmetically appealing.
■Requires baking. Cures at 300°F minimum. Must be oven baked.

TLLB LUBRICATED THERMAL BARRIER

■Oil shedding thermal barrier.
■Designed for the bottom of intake manifolds.
■Use on windage trays, crank scrapers, connecting rods etc….
■Requires baking. Cures at 300°F minimum. Must be oven baked.

We also use this on the inside of the manifolds to help improve flow:

TLML DRY FILM LUBRICANT

■Extreme pressure bonded lubricant.
■Solvent based, can be sprayed in very thin films.
■Reduces friction, galling and scuffing. Increase part life.
■Requires no clearance changes to compensate for coating.
■Oil retaining.
■Aids in cooling parts.
■Requires baking. Cures at 300°F minimum. Must be oven baked.

Hey Razor be advised that the metal shrouds under the vents help drain the water into the sides of the engine by the battery and ECU. If you remove them water will get into your engine bay. I was going to do the same thing. Just an FYI...

Thx I'll keep that in mind.. I'm thinking it will be ok when moving but I wouldnt want to leave it exposed in a downpour all day long

i havent really inspected it, but i assumed the vent on the hood was for the cabin air intake...

Yes, I'm almost 100% sure it's function is to keep the battery and ECU sections cooled down. As we know those two areas are completely sealed off from the rest of the engine bay.

what do u guys feel when the C32's suffer heat soak? like exactly what difference do u feel?

Loss of power... It's a noticeable difference. Sort of feels like the engine has more vibration too, or it's missing slightly. I assume due to a cut in timing. My main step to cut down engine temperatures right now is the TVT 87C thermostat with additional opening to allow constant flow. Not installed yet...

so i guess its the same feelign that you get when you have an i/c failure goin on? where the S/C boggs down, and cuts down the power??

had that happened, back when the I/C pump on my car went BAAD! i could continously SMASH on the gas...only once in a while, then the car has to "recharge" somehow.

although, ever since i replaced my i/c pump that hasnt happened anymore. i can smash on my car whenever i want, and have constant power whenever.

Look at the pictures of the new SLS safety car. It has a large vent cut in the front of the hood and two smaller vent cut out of the back of the hood for cooling. I saw a cool SLS at the dealer the other day. Will post pictures when I get around to down loading them.

I think you're talking about the SLS GT3 car....



http://www.topspeed.com/cars/mercedes/2011-mercedes-sls-amg-gt3-ar86854/picture355749.html

This one looks pretty cool too:

I did a little research in to this and found out that brabus stopped producing the hoods because you get a lot of water in then engine bay and it was causing all sorts of havoc with the electronics under the hood, on top of that the engine gets super dirty.

I wish there was a way that we could do it where we could make sure water did not get in.

+1, and I am just "venting" here , BUT if the vents were able to be engineered to help with the "heat soak" issue, wouldn't Mercedes have included them on all of its SC cars?? Seems to me that the use of a hood vent for engine cooling is limited to race cars and those that do not have issues with water getting into the engine compartment.

Now, with the new TUV regs on hoods in Germany etc , you'll probably be seeing less modifications of hoods in general to accomodate "pedestrian safety."

Waldig made custom hood vents on his Crossfire SRT-6 and hasn't had any issues. He mentioned that he can always se so much heat escaping from there.

I know it's a different car, but it's possible.

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/33086-heres-you-answer-sorry-delay-been-doing-stuff.html

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/41873-really-sucks-i-dont-have-take-heat.html

I finally got to test the hood design that I created. The photos show the Hood thermal sensors and the “antenna” Air sensor.

The sensors are set to record the temps in Degrees F and are in correct perspective, left is left vent, center is ambient air, and right is right vent.

The air is about 20 degrees above the ambient with the passenger vent being 5 – 10 degrees hotter. This is consistent and I believe that this is the result of the main cooling fans rotation. It is interesting to see how sitting in traffic the temps rise to about 30 – 40 degrees hotter because the heat is rising without the cooling provided by the cars forward motion.

Considering the size of the vents and the speed ( 88 feet per second ) of the air over the grills I have calculated the airflow thru the grill. It comes in at about 200 to 300 cubic feet of air per minute. This would be about the same airflow as that available from out heater vents on the highest speed position.

At faster forward speeds, the airflow would increase significantly due to a higher draft over the vents and the greater air pressure thru the radiator / faster fan rotational speed.

So this little ditty cools well, and the vents really shine when the car is NOT moving as the heat wafts up freely from below. At the track the cooling is handy when your waiting in line or between heats and the car cools faster due to the vertical venting of the under-hood area.

[QUOTE=Gramma_Benz;4212830]Waldig made custom hood vents on his Crossfire SRT-6 and hasn't had any issues. He mentioned that he can always se so much heat escaping from there.

I know it's a different car, but it's possible.

Thats on Waldig's car. I am wondering who did his since it looks nice on the SRT and would also function the same way on our cars?? I may shoot him an e mail and ask if there's any "water intrusion " issues with the vents?? FYI, I PMd him and am awaiting a reply as to how its worked out for him. I think it looks great on his car, although we have a way different hood than the SRT.

just my personal opinion, but IMO the vents are more likely to be used to pull air out of the engine bay to help reduce engine bay temp which can help lower the intake temp on our cars. That is why I wanted a vented hood like the Brabus one in the first place.

on the race car it's a different story.

This is what I did!




notice the new holes The hood grill fits over it, When Driving air is forced near the manifolds and Y pipe thus cooling.... When idle we notice it dissipates a lot of heat through the new openings, I did the measurements and made sure to cover the throttlebody and intake just to be sure if I do drive in the rain.... it won't soak the intake!